help
- Thread starter freetibet
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Maxxumless
To the Max...
I don't know much about your camera so I can only give you general help. First, you have to stop the movement in your tank so shutting off powerheads and filters is usually a good idea. Second, setting your camera to the lowest ISO helps get a less grainy picture. Third, if you can shoot in RAW format that will help deal with white balance problems so you can fix it in post processing. Forth, shoot with a tripod to lessen the chances of shake (blur). Fifth, focus on they eyes of fish. Six, go for creative angles but usually not more than 45 degrees due to the distortion glass/acrylic can cause.
You can add light to the tank by placing lamps on the sides but make sure they are at least 6300K bulbs (GE 6300K bulbs can usually be found at Wal-Mart). Amazingly, tank lights are not bright enough to get really high shutter speeds! You should also turn off the room lights to avoid glare and mixing lighting types which confuses some camera's auto white balance.
Hope that helps. If you want specific help don't hesitate asking.
You can add light to the tank by placing lamps on the sides but make sure they are at least 6300K bulbs (GE 6300K bulbs can usually be found at Wal-Mart). Amazingly, tank lights are not bright enough to get really high shutter speeds! You should also turn off the room lights to avoid glare and mixing lighting types which confuses some camera's auto white balance.
Hope that helps. If you want specific help don't hesitate asking.
Maxxumless
To the Max...
In the most basic terms it is a digital negative, or raw file with no processing done on it by the camera's internal computer. In camera menu's it is typically called simply RAW or RAW+Large Jpeg and so on. If your camera is the Casio EX-Z750 then I believe the highest settings you can use are Fine 3072x2304; so, no RAW.
Something I neglected to mention was 'not' to use your on camera flash. It is tiny, will blow out details at close range, will usually not cover your topic well and will likely also mess up your camera's auto white balance because flashes usually burn in the 5000-5500K range while your tank lights typically are much higher (more blue). Taking pictures with a point-and-shoot can be more tricky than with digital SLRs because you are working with a tool designed for average family use â€"œ not macro photography with lighting in the high K's. Your best bet would be to put as much light coming in from the sides of the tank, use a tripod and make everything as still as possible.
Something I neglected to mention was 'not' to use your on camera flash. It is tiny, will blow out details at close range, will usually not cover your topic well and will likely also mess up your camera's auto white balance because flashes usually burn in the 5000-5500K range while your tank lights typically are much higher (more blue). Taking pictures with a point-and-shoot can be more tricky than with digital SLRs because you are working with a tool designed for average family use â€"œ not macro photography with lighting in the high K's. Your best bet would be to put as much light coming in from the sides of the tank, use a tripod and make everything as still as possible.
The only thing so far i did was to stop the water movement, i will try the others stuff next time..
It doesn't look like how it looks in person, i guess i need a good camera for that.
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It doesn't look like how it looks in person, i guess i need a good camera for that.
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Maxxumless
To the Max...
Actually, that isn't a bad beginning. Notice how on some of the photos you are getting a curvature to the tank â€"œ thats because you are zoomed all the way out (wide-angle). Looking at your image info you were at 6mm (38mm in full format camera equivalence) which will produce really exaggerated curvature. If you zoom in a little, that should be cured (50mm is supposed to be the average human perspective view btw). Try upping the ISO a little to help stop motion on the fish â€"œ you probably want a speed around 1/200 (you were at 1/160 I see) to do that. Higher ISO will mean much more noise but that can be cured by post processing. You can also set your EV (exposure value) to under expose a little to get higher shutter speeds too.
Did you use a tripod and the camera's self timer too? That helps get sharper images.
Photography as a whole is actually pretty difficult, but I think you are off to a good start. The image below that I took at our local zoo this morning suffers from one of your image problems â€"œ highlights were blown out on the turtles shell (too white thus losing image info and loss of data). It was taken with my Canon XT + Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 on a monopod w/ ballhead â€"œ with a P&S it would be extremely difficult to capture. Good luck and keep shooting pictures â€"œ its the only way to learn!
Did you use a tripod and the camera's self timer too? That helps get sharper images.
Photography as a whole is actually pretty difficult, but I think you are off to a good start. The image below that I took at our local zoo this morning suffers from one of your image problems â€"œ highlights were blown out on the turtles shell (too white thus losing image info and loss of data). It was taken with my Canon XT + Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 on a monopod w/ ballhead â€"œ with a P&S it would be extremely difficult to capture. Good luck and keep shooting pictures â€"œ its the only way to learn!
Maxxumless
To the Max...
Better tools do sometimes equal better result's
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