Here is my equipment for the new tank, anything I am leaving out?

stlouisguy

Registered Member
Lights - 4x400 SE with luminarc reflectors

Skimmer - Geo dual Beckett about 5' tall powered by iwaki md100 rl

Return pump-Hammerhead

In tank water movement - 2 6100's and 2 6200's tunze

Calcium Reactor - Geo 818 with mj 1200 and ph controller

heater 1000w although I dont think keeping the tank warm will be a problem

Am I forgetting anything?
 
"Return pump - Hammerhead"

I think you would be happier with a Manta ray.
Just an all around better pump. The Hammerhead is fine tho.

No Actinic supplementation ?
What a icecap660 and some T-5s would do for the overall look of the tank.......
 
I thought about the Manta Ray but I like the quiteness of the hammerhead nad as Griss had one on it I liked the flow.

I will probably add to the lighting, but as I have never used anything but MH I dont know the first thing about supplementing it. T-5 do interest me
 
Water is in tank, have hydrocloric acid in there now and all the gunk is off the sides, just working on the corners.

Hoping for 4 weeks to start filling

Also have the subpanel in and we will finish the electric tomorrow hopefully with 16 outlets in the room.
 
No but that reminds me, I am adding a room airconditioner that is rated for 500 sq ft with a vent to the outside and able to take 10 gallons of water out of the air daily.

So no chiller but room airconditioner
 
The mantaray is the same pump but more powerful/better head pressure and you can run it 220V or 110V.

Bonus - It comes in Gansta gold.
MM1350.jpg


It makes no additional noise when we replaced it with the hammerhead. Just a ton more flow.

With that big of a body of water I would be more worried about temperature stratification than over/under heating.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8221181#post8221181 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Letmegrow


With that big of a body of water I would be more worried about temperature stratification than over/under heating.

Welp, me feels dumb again LOL. Explain please
 
It is a combination of things.

Your heated water will convect to the top as always.
So if your flow from your heater source does not waft to the expanses of your water mass you will only be heating a portion of your water. (the top)

Your sand will cool down the bottom layer of water.
(Bad way of saying it/explaining it but you get the idea)

Your lights will heat the top layer of your water always making it warmer than the rest of the water below that line.

Big tanks with low flow need to worry about temperature stratification as well as pH. Some people wonder why the corals closer to the light do better, well it's not always the light, sometimes it is the water conditions in that layer.

Mo' Flo' - Mo' Flo' - Mo' Flo'
 
Okay like a thermocline in a lake. So do I have enough flow with 4 Tunze and my return pipes? Was considering 2 more tunze or 2 vortect at the bottom of the tank.
 
Looks good. Can't wait to see more pictures of the progress!!

Steve do you have a link for the mantaray.. I too just bought the Hammerhead because of the head pressure didn't know about the Mantaray.. Then again I should have 3500-4000 GPH being pushed back to the 180..

Sorry not trying to hijack your thread :D
 
Exactly.

That is up to you for the pumps, you can always add more. :)

If you drill a couple holes and add the manta ray you will have enough to mix your water throughly. If you want more flow talk to the equipment junkies.

Ever consider using ozone ?
 
Another cool thing about the manta ray is if you decide not to run it full open, it doesnt hurt the pump and actually uses less electric.
also the 110/220 is nice,because 220 can save you $,but make sure you have a generator setup to run 220v if you lose power and need to run the pump. When I swapped from a hammerhead to manta ray it was a huge difference and I dont think it even fully opened on my valve. Hammerheads have no pressure.
 
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