Here is my tank after adding liquid calcium.

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So it has cleared already?

Some notes, Water clarifier is not needed and will not have a real effect unless you are using a fine mechanical filter, the only thing it does is to add a surfactant (many times some kind of silicon compound) to agglomerate together small particles so the larger clumps can more easily be filtered out by mechanical filters.

Second is that the purple up rarely does have an effect on calcium or alkalinity, it contains finely ground aragonite (calcium carbonate) which is intended to dissolve into calcium and alkalinity, the take is that at normal aquarium PH range of 8 to 8.3 the calcium carbonate does not dissolve so it stays as is so it is equivalent to adding finely ground sand to your system.

Third, Kent's liquid calcium is not concentrated enough and contains no alkalinity so the likelihood of it forming a "snow storm" precipitation is very unlikely.

Finally my best bet is that you created a bacterial bloom rather than carbonate precipitation by using the TLC for Salt aquariums.
The TLC which may be rarely needed if not at all contains a booster of bacteria in the hopes of speeding up cycle time, the real truth is that bacteria has to be fed and it is done by the ammonia formed by the decaying matter in the new rock.
If the ammonia amount is not high enough the added on bacteria blooms and then die for lack of food, that die off decomposes then blooming ammonia again so the cycle basically re-starts but with higher ammonia content which in turn ends up as a high level of nitrates once the tank completes cycled.
To prevent that yo-yo effect the best thing is just to let the initial ammonia feed the initial bacteria already in the rock (this is why live rock is used after all) and then the bacterial population grows as ammonia becomes available, This in fact is a faster process than having that initial boost and then die off.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13091916#post13091916 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
So it has cleared already?

Some notes, Water clarifier is not needed and will not have a real effect unless you are using a fine mechanical filter, the only thing it does is to add a surfactant (many times some kind of silicon compound) to agglomerate together small particles so the larger clumps can more easily be filtered out by mechanical filters.

Second is that the purple up rarely does have an effect on calcium or alkalinity, it contains finely ground aragonite (calcium carbonate) which is intended to dissolve into calcium and alkalinity, the take is that at normal aquarium PH range of 8 to 8.3 the calcium carbonate does not dissolve so it stays as is so it is equivalent to adding finely ground sand to your system.

Third, Kent's liquid calcium is not concentrated enough and contains no alkalinity so the likelihood of it forming a "snow storm" precipitation is very unlikely.

Finally my best bet is that you created a bacterial bloom rather than carbonate precipitation by using the TLC for Salt aquariums.
The TLC which may be rarely needed if not at all contains a booster of bacteria in the hopes of speeding up cycle time, the real truth is that bacteria has to be fed and it is done by the ammonia formed by the decaying matter in the new rock.
If the ammonia amount is not high enough the added on bacteria blooms and then die for lack of food, that die off decomposes then blooming ammonia again so the cycle basically re-starts but with higher ammonia content which in turn ends up as a high level of nitrates once the tank completes cycled.
To prevent that yo-yo effect the best thing is just to let the initial ammonia feed the initial bacteria already in the rock (this is why live rock is used after all) and then the bacterial population grows as ammonia becomes available, This in fact is a faster process than having that initial boost and then die off.

I do not use the clarifier at all when I use the liquid calcium.

The only time I use the kent water clarifier is after a major cleaning. So basically I change the filters twice...

1st I stir up the detrius on top of the sand bed so it gets sucked up in the fluval then I let things settle a bit then clean the filter.

----- NOTE------
I will be removing the sponge after work.
But from my picture you can tell perhaps I do not have enough live rock.

I have 16 rocks and maybe 7 or 8 of them are live.

is 7 or 8 live rock enough for my tank?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13091918#post13091918 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LJA
I was actually wondering why there is a large elbow PVC in the bottom right corner...


The very big clown loves to hang out there as that is what he had to live in at the fish store.

But once I get rid of all the bad algae then I will place a bubble tip anemone in the same place hoping he will host it.
 
I better go back home durring lunch to remove the bottles!

I hope the light does not melt the plastic bottles!

dummy me.
 
I would toss all of those supplements and get your self a good two part sollution for Ca/Alk such as ESV B-Ionic.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13092190#post13092190 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cbrguy
I would toss all of those supplements and get your self a good two part sollution for Ca/Alk such as ESV B-Ionic.


Ok I'll look for it next time I go shopping.
 
Bacteria will spread from the live rocks you have to the other ones, it will just take some time.

Some recomendations:
a) Mechanical filters are OK to filter particles but should not be your main filtration, that is what live rock is and basically will not help prevent or reduce nitrates which is one of the main feeds for algae. In addition they tend to trap also benefical plankton in the water column and by adding the clarifier you just made it more effective at that. It is better to use it for media like activated carbon.

b) If you do not have one I would recommend a good skimmer, it will remove detritus before it decomposes and turn into additional nitrates. It also help prevent organic build up. organics.

c) Removing detritus from the top of the sand is OK just try not to disturb the sand bed below the top 1/4 to 1/2" layer, you need to let sand dwelling creatures to promote a bood de-nitrifying sand bed.

d) Finally get yoursels some good test kits so you get familiar with your tank progress and anticipate potential problems. You will need calcium, alkalinity, magnesium and nitrate kits as a minimum.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13092409#post13092409 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Bacteria will spread from the live rocks you have to the other ones, it will just take some time.

Some recomendations:
a) Mechanical filters are OK to filter particles but should not be your main filtration, that is what live rock is and basically will not help prevent or reduce nitrates which is one of the main feeds for algae. In addition they tend to trap also benefical plankton in the water column and by adding the clarifier you just made it more effective at that. It is better to use it for media like activated carbon.

b) If you do not have one I would recommend a good skimmer, it will remove detritus before it decomposes and turn into additional nitrates. It also help prevent organic build up. organics.

c) Removing detritus from the top of the sand is OK just try not to disturb the sand bed below the top 1/4 to 1/2" layer, you need to let sand dwelling creatures to promote a bood de-nitrifying sand bed.

d) Finally get yoursels some good test kits so you get familiar with your tank progress and anticipate potential problems. You will need calcium, alkalinity, magnesium and nitrate kits as a minimum.


I have made some dumb choices along the way when testers are chosen.
 
My first question is actually


Why are you even dosing Calcium at all? With only fish in the tank you don't need to even worry about dosing it. You will need quite a bit of coral before you need to dose any 2 part (assuming you are using a 1/2 decent salt mix here..... IO, Reef Crystals, Oceanic).

Also, as stated above do not dose anything that you do not test for. You have no idea what levels you are at currently, or how much your tank uses up. Consequently, you have no idea how much you need to dose.
 
I recommend Salifert or Elos Test Kits if you will be going Reef.

FOWLR Tanks any of the basic test kits will be fine. I used the "REEF MASTER TEST KIT" they sell at PETCO when I had a FOWLR. I was only testing Nitrates basically after the tank cycled. No reason for me to test anything else in a FOWLR.

Reef tanks you have to test for many other things though. And you need accuracy if you are testing for something that you need to dose regularly (mag, alk, calcium at least).
 
^ I agree why are you dosing if this is a FOWLR? no need to dose. Just by doing water changes you can maintain the levels. If you are going with softies only (zoanthids, mushrooms etc) you prob still wont have to dose..just by doing regular water changes you should be able to maintain the proper levels without a problem. I recommend Elos test kits they are very easy to use and accurate.

Back with my very first tank i use to dose some liquid calcium and use old hagen test kits..boy did that kick me in the butt later! Its a really good idea to research before adding anything..
 
Nine clowns, unneeded chemicals for FOWLR, sounds like your LFS is into the make money not repeat customer business. 10 percent water changes once a week will keep your chemistry where it needs to be. I would hold off on adding any calcium until you know your calcium and alkalinity readings beforehand. This way when you do add corals with a high calcium demand you can test in to determine what needs to be added. Slow and steady wins the race. You should get plenty of coraline algae with the water changes so the purple up is not needed. For future reference when in doubt post on reefcentral. The gang on here will guide you along. That way you can save your money on chemicals and hire a clown wrangler to remove 7 of those clowns.
 
Dump all that junk. You don't need it.
You really need to test your alkalinity now. When you have a snowstorm like that you can completely destroy the buffering capacity of the tank which can cause pH swings that can harmor even kill your fish.
 
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