Here's a problem I've never had

[SantaCruzReefer]

Ok, I have 12 polyps of purple hornets and they have hair algae growing around the polyps. However I dont know how to remove the algae without damaging the polyps. The polyps are closed and most likely not doing so well and i can hardly see them. The hair algae is only on the polyps and no where else in the area the zoas are still growing at about a polyp a week, but the hair algae really is annoying. Thanks for any help. By the way ive been doing lots of water changes and that doesn't help.

 

[ihavtats29]

ive used a soft bristle tooth brush on my candy apple reds with out damaging them , just lightly brush off the pollups

 

[angel_eyez84]

times two on the soft bristled tooth brush!

 

[SantaCruzReefer]

Ok, Ill try that tommorow. But honestly I dont want to hurt my zoas so ill be very cautios while doing that.

 

[FrankenReef]

I have read on another forum about people using 50% peroxide/ 50% tankwater for 5 minutes to kill algae on zoas. Supposedly it is harmles to zoas but kills all algae, even coralline. I haven't tried it yet but will soon on my chameleon people charmers.

 

[Reef Bass]

Whoa! I tried that hydrogen peroxide treatment and it just about killed the zoos. While the hydrogen peroxide was literally like scrubbing bubbles (serious bubbling) removing gunk from the polyps, I believe they sustained the equivalent of a chemical burn. They closed up for 3 weeks and I thought they were going to melt. I was kicking myself for believing something I read on the internet.

I moved them to higher flow and eventually they started to open again. They look good now. There was an irony that while closed up, they started gettting algae on them again.

If you do try the treatment, I would recommend dailing back the hydrogen peroxide to say no more than 25% hydrogen peroxide / 75% tank water. That's 50% less hydrogen peroxide than the 50/50 ratio and I'd bet it would still be very effective on algae. And I'd also wager the polyps would close up for a scary amount of time.

It's possible the concentration of over the counter hydrogen peroxide solutions varies. The active ingredient in that which I used was listed as hydrogen peroxide 3%.

 

[MikeandNicole]

+1 on not using hydrogen peroxide. I have read the same things and the two people I know who did it lost corals.

I would recommend the soft toothbrush or using tweezers to pull out the individual strands. It is time consuming but we have used it to clean up frags.

 

[mfinn]

When I have zoanthids/palys that have fungus on them, I've used the perxode dip, but at a 20% perxode to 80% tank water ratio. I would think the 50/50 ratio is a bit harsh.
I've used a soft brush more than once.

I just recently saw a picture someone posted on another forum where the guy had a nudibranch (lettuce?) doing some cleaning inbetween polyps.

 

[SantaCruzReefer]

Yeah, the hydrogen peroxide idea sounds a little bit scary. This is the look I had on my face when reading that....:worried2:. I'm sure it works but wow, sounds like I'll be taking a gamble. The tooth brush idea sounds a bit more not likely to kill the zoas.

 

[AMAYEU]

From what I have read and how I used... 1 part hydrogen peroxide and 9 parts saltwater, for 3-5 minutes (bubbles forming around poyps). Be careful on the concentration and time. Too strong and too long will bleach/kill your zoas. The hydrogen peroxide is the 3% from the drug store. Google "peroxide dip" for further research. It is primarily used for fungus and bacteria issues.

This method somewhat removes algae to a degree, turns light in color. I suggest using the toothbrush method as suggested, then use a pair of tweezers to get the stragglers b4 dipping. You are targeting the algae not the polyps.
Best

 

[blasterman789]

Personally I use a small but stiff paint brush rather than a tooth brush. Simply easier to navigate.

I've had episodes of hair algae attacking clumps of zoas, and I assume it's because the zoas bind up nutrients. If left alone for a long time the hair algae will eventually smother and kill the zoas. Rather than chemical warfare I use a three day black-out, or cover the specific clump with something to block out light for three-four days. I've found this method has more success than physical removal.

 

[SantaCruzReefer]

Ok, I tried the tooth brush idea and had never been more freaked out. It did work and thanks for the help and suggestions. Next time I'll have to try the hydrogen peroxide with some cheap zoas.

 

[mfinn]

good for removing HA from polyps.

picture was taken by: Akwarius...

 

[Neogenocide]

I must be lucky then, my crabs basically attack any new frag that hits my tank. They strip any and all algae off of it, and I've never had a problem. My newest one is these itty bitty dusters growing between the polyps, and it's really making them mad. They close up and refuse to open till I manually remove them.

Scott

 

[Bonvivant]

I have a turbo snail that considers it his duty to clean every new frag I get.

 

[Akwarius]

The lettuce nudi pictured above and two of his friends made short work of my bryopsis. Before getting them I would have to pull some frags out every two weeks to manually remove the junk. I would venture to say that lettuce nudis are a must have for any established tank with decent water parameters.

 

[Scott-CapeCoral]

No issues with the nudi at all? Anything to watch out for ?