I have high calcium readings (600) and I just tested my alk (7) I do frequent water changes, my corals look good but I've been getting red slime on my sand bed recently and hair algae. I have never had cyano or hair algae before this, any suggestions to get the calcium/ alk back on track? BTW Ph-8.2-8-4 Sal 1.026
High calcium/alk?
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wds21921
New member
Have you tested both GH and KH?
After explaining to Kapt Ken that my calcium level always remains at 450ppm or above I decided to test my tank water. I found out that the KH (Carbonate Hardness) was good as it ideally would be in a well maintained tank.
What I found out on the GH (General Hardness) side though floored me. Mine was at last testing over 719 ppm. That's well above what you would like it to be.
My answer to this problem was to make the switch from Tap to RO/DI water to try and get this manageable (GH).
I'm not sure that your cyano is a direct result of the high calcium levels though. Something I've noticed over the last 3-4 years, is at least in my area, there seems to be more phosphates in my tap water source than at any other time during the year.
Phosphates are introduced in munincipal water systems to keep pipes clean of debri and oxidation. If your already filtering your water or using filtered water from another source, you may want to check it before you use it.
Cut back on the duration of your lighting for now if you can. Check your water source and then go from there.
I'd suggest not using many of the available chemicals to remove cyano. Some do work (short term) but it's best to find where the problem is coming from by process of elimination. This will pan out for the future of your tank much better.
One of our members had me try something also that goes against the conventional answers.
She had me increase the amount and frequency of my feedings. I did this slowly over a 1-2 week period and it actually worked. Without going into a long term explanation it essentially jump starts your nitrogen cycle and kills off the cyano.
I'm not suggesting you do this, I'm just saying it worked for me but there are thousands of remedies offered if you read up on cyano lol.
There's a lot of different answers to this problem and it gets asked frequently. First step though is to check your initial water source where your getting your make-up water. Go from there ok?
After explaining to Kapt Ken that my calcium level always remains at 450ppm or above I decided to test my tank water. I found out that the KH (Carbonate Hardness) was good as it ideally would be in a well maintained tank.
What I found out on the GH (General Hardness) side though floored me. Mine was at last testing over 719 ppm. That's well above what you would like it to be.
My answer to this problem was to make the switch from Tap to RO/DI water to try and get this manageable (GH).
I'm not sure that your cyano is a direct result of the high calcium levels though. Something I've noticed over the last 3-4 years, is at least in my area, there seems to be more phosphates in my tap water source than at any other time during the year.
Phosphates are introduced in munincipal water systems to keep pipes clean of debri and oxidation. If your already filtering your water or using filtered water from another source, you may want to check it before you use it.
Cut back on the duration of your lighting for now if you can. Check your water source and then go from there.
I'd suggest not using many of the available chemicals to remove cyano. Some do work (short term) but it's best to find where the problem is coming from by process of elimination. This will pan out for the future of your tank much better.
One of our members had me try something also that goes against the conventional answers.
She had me increase the amount and frequency of my feedings. I did this slowly over a 1-2 week period and it actually worked. Without going into a long term explanation it essentially jump starts your nitrogen cycle and kills off the cyano.
I'm not suggesting you do this, I'm just saying it worked for me but there are thousands of remedies offered if you read up on cyano lol.
There's a lot of different answers to this problem and it gets asked frequently. First step though is to check your initial water source where your getting your make-up water. Go from there ok?
I'm using a 5 stage RO/DI unit and Instant Ocean, I found some info that the Cyano might be eliminated by changing my light bulbs(actinics) as they are about 7 months old. The high calcium/alk is a concern though and I would like to get that figured out. I don't have a TDS meter, and this is the first time I have tested the ALK. I'm thinking about trying the Salifert test instead to see if my test kits (Seatest/Fastest) are acurate. Thanks for the response.
an Alk of 7dkh is fine. if your test kit reads in meq/l then 7 is high. to lower the alk, just stop adding any alk/Ph buffers and it will fall on its own.
a Ca of 600ppm wont harm anything, to lower it stop adding what every you add for Ca and it will fall on its own also.
the cyano and hair algae arnt comming from the high Ca/Alk but from excess nutrients. how much and what do you feed? where does the water come from for top off and water changes?
a Ca of 600ppm wont harm anything, to lower it stop adding what every you add for Ca and it will fall on its own also.
the cyano and hair algae arnt comming from the high Ca/Alk but from excess nutrients. how much and what do you feed? where does the water come from for top off and water changes?
I feed to much because I have a puffer that is a pig and so there is excess that my other fish don't eat. Of course I have to combat this by changing phosphate and carbon pads more often and having a bigger protein skimmer. Also, I have added alot more snails, hermit crabs and emerald crabs. I think you are right about the buffer, and I have already stoped adding buffer to see if I can see a difference. Also I have well water with 5 stage RO/DI but I go offshore fishing quite often and I think I am going to start filling up 5 gallon buckets when I hit gulfstream water to see if I notice a difference in my corals or the tank in general.
Billybeau1
Premium Member
First off you cant measure GH in saltwater. I mean I guess you can but it wont tell you anything useful.
I am really surprised your calcium is that high using IO. I suspect a bad test kit if you are not adding any calcium suppliments.
The algae outbreak is likely the cause of high phosphates. Get a Po4 kit and test it. If it is high, phosphate filter pads wont do you much good. You may have to go to an iron based remover.
Good luck
I am really surprised your calcium is that high using IO. I suspect a bad test kit if you are not adding any calcium suppliments.
The algae outbreak is likely the cause of high phosphates. Get a Po4 kit and test it. If it is high, phosphate filter pads wont do you much good. You may have to go to an iron based remover.
Good luck
wds21921
New member
What is Alkalinity?
Alkalinity is the sum of all the bases (compounds in water that react with acid to create neutral compounds) in the water sample. Typically, the major contributors to alkalinity are from carbonate (CO32-), bicarbonate (HCO3-), or hydroxide (OH-), and most measurements are intended to reflect the amount of these ions in solution. However, there may be contributions from other bases in the water sample, such as borates, phosphates, or silicates (this is why it’s called total alkalinity).
The amount of carbonate and bicarbonate in your water will determine how well your water is buffered against rapid changes in pH (in other words, how well your water can resist large changes in pH). Those buffer products usually use certain ratios of carbonate and bicarbonate to reach that specified pH value.
In most aquariums, the major contributions to alkalinity are due to carbonate and bicarbonate salts. As a result, your alkalinity (or total alkalinity) is dominated by carbonate and bicarbonate salts, and this is why some test kits actually call it “Carbonate Hardness,†abbreviated as “KH.†So to make some sense out of all these terms…carbonate hardness = alkalinity = total alkalinity. While this statement isn’t 100% true, it is an acceptable assumption for the average aquarist.
Now, just because carbonates and bicarbonates help your water resist changes in pH doesn’t mean that more is necessarily better. Each species of fish comes from a natural habitat with a certain amount of carbonate and bicarbonate dissolved in the water, and providing the proper amount for your fish will keep them bright, alive, and happy.
What’s the right alkalinity for my fish?
It’s a good idea to keep your alkalinity no lower than 75-100 mg CaCO3/L (equal to 75-100 ppm, 1.5-2.0 meq/L, or 4.2-5.6° dH). Below this value you run the risk of having too little buffer to accommodate small additions of acid produced by decaying waste in your tank. Most aquarium owners keep their alkalinity between 100-250 mg CaCO3/L (equal to 100-250 ppm, 2.0-5.0 meq/L, or 5.6-140° dH), depending on the needs of their inhabitants.
How do I measure alkalinity?
The most accurate way to measure alkalinity is using a titration method. A titration is a procedure in which a certain number of drops of one solution are added to your sample to produce a color change. The number of drops then corresponds to some number that represents the alkalinity. The test kits that use this method are always going to be the most accurate. Test strips will give you a basic idea of the alkalinity (or total alkalinity…or carbonate hardness) but should not be used if you require more specific values.
Hardness
What is Hardness?
Hardness or general hardness (both terms are used interchangeably) is inherently related to the alkalinity of your water. Hardness is usually considered a measure of the magnesium and calcium concentrations given in calcium carbonate (mg CaCO3/L). There’s that carbonate again!! Actually, when the hardness value is greater than the alkalinity value, then the alkalinity is considered “carbonate hardness.†The difference between the “carbonate hardness†and the “hardness†or “general hardness†value is called the “non-carbonate†hardness.
Alkalinity is the sum of all the bases (compounds in water that react with acid to create neutral compounds) in the water sample. Typically, the major contributors to alkalinity are from carbonate (CO32-), bicarbonate (HCO3-), or hydroxide (OH-), and most measurements are intended to reflect the amount of these ions in solution. However, there may be contributions from other bases in the water sample, such as borates, phosphates, or silicates (this is why it’s called total alkalinity).
The amount of carbonate and bicarbonate in your water will determine how well your water is buffered against rapid changes in pH (in other words, how well your water can resist large changes in pH). Those buffer products usually use certain ratios of carbonate and bicarbonate to reach that specified pH value.
In most aquariums, the major contributions to alkalinity are due to carbonate and bicarbonate salts. As a result, your alkalinity (or total alkalinity) is dominated by carbonate and bicarbonate salts, and this is why some test kits actually call it “Carbonate Hardness,†abbreviated as “KH.†So to make some sense out of all these terms…carbonate hardness = alkalinity = total alkalinity. While this statement isn’t 100% true, it is an acceptable assumption for the average aquarist.
Now, just because carbonates and bicarbonates help your water resist changes in pH doesn’t mean that more is necessarily better. Each species of fish comes from a natural habitat with a certain amount of carbonate and bicarbonate dissolved in the water, and providing the proper amount for your fish will keep them bright, alive, and happy.
What’s the right alkalinity for my fish?
It’s a good idea to keep your alkalinity no lower than 75-100 mg CaCO3/L (equal to 75-100 ppm, 1.5-2.0 meq/L, or 4.2-5.6° dH). Below this value you run the risk of having too little buffer to accommodate small additions of acid produced by decaying waste in your tank. Most aquarium owners keep their alkalinity between 100-250 mg CaCO3/L (equal to 100-250 ppm, 2.0-5.0 meq/L, or 5.6-140° dH), depending on the needs of their inhabitants.
How do I measure alkalinity?
The most accurate way to measure alkalinity is using a titration method. A titration is a procedure in which a certain number of drops of one solution are added to your sample to produce a color change. The number of drops then corresponds to some number that represents the alkalinity. The test kits that use this method are always going to be the most accurate. Test strips will give you a basic idea of the alkalinity (or total alkalinity…or carbonate hardness) but should not be used if you require more specific values.
Hardness
What is Hardness?
Hardness or general hardness (both terms are used interchangeably) is inherently related to the alkalinity of your water. Hardness is usually considered a measure of the magnesium and calcium concentrations given in calcium carbonate (mg CaCO3/L). There’s that carbonate again!! Actually, when the hardness value is greater than the alkalinity value, then the alkalinity is considered “carbonate hardness.†The difference between the “carbonate hardness†and the “hardness†or “general hardness†value is called the “non-carbonate†hardness.
Billybeau1
Premium Member
Nice Job, I learned something today. Thanks
Billybeau1
Premium Member
:lol: I think he meant "well", not "will". Boomer doesn't type so will (i mean well) sometimes. You made a nice post bro'. Lets move on 
wds21921
New member
I've moved away from calcium enhanced salt mixes also. They've been more problematic than what they're worth IMO.
The calcium for one never seems to disolve in anyway. It only gets smaller and smaller when mixing.
The amount of residue left in my mixing container also tells me that it is actually going into the trash more than it is in the tank when I wipe out the container. I hate to pay extra for something I'm going to wind up throwing away.
When I have used it, it seems to be somewhat (and sometimes very much) unstable.
The calcium for one never seems to disolve in anyway. It only gets smaller and smaller when mixing.
The amount of residue left in my mixing container also tells me that it is actually going into the trash more than it is in the tank when I wipe out the container. I hate to pay extra for something I'm going to wind up throwing away.
When I have used it, it seems to be somewhat (and sometimes very much) unstable.
wds
Just so you know in regards to the GH and such test kits.
If one wants to spend money on a kit like the HACH or one of the LaMotte Hardness test kits they can be used in seawater as they test very high GH. Some have a Calcium part to them. In short by math, you can get GH, x by math and get the Ca++ , x by math and get the Mg++ all in one kit. In other words a GH and Ca++ and Mg++ all in one kit. The one I gave to Randy, a HACH Digital Titrator, was $150.00 and is the best kit there is.
Just so you know in regards to the GH and such test kits.
If one wants to spend money on a kit like the HACH or one of the LaMotte Hardness test kits they can be used in seawater as they test very high GH. Some have a Calcium part to them. In short by math, you can get GH, x by math and get the Ca++ , x by math and get the Mg++ all in one kit. In other words a GH and Ca++ and Mg++ all in one kit. The one I gave to Randy, a HACH Digital Titrator, was $150.00 and is the best kit there is.
Billybeau1
Premium Member
I hear ya wds. I just got done with a bucket of Coralife and wont be buying any more. Way too much calcium. Its back to good old IO for me.
