high phosphate

[spinnerbayt]

I had a red slime problem that came up a while back and I figured it was caused by high phosphate but with building the house and all I haven't taken the time to check it. I had thrown a phos pad into the baffles of the sump (all I had) and it has helped. Tonight I did the phos test and confirmed what I thought. My question is what should I use to lower the phosphate? I don't have a phos reactor.

 

[viowyn]

The kent phosphate sponges work reasonably well. Mostly frequent water changes take care of it though. Remember though cyanobacteria is also caused because of low water flow.

 

[carb850]

I'm fighting a bit of green hair algae. A few weeks ago I picked up a two little fishes phosban reactor and I think I'm finally starting to see a reduction.

Like viowyn says, my cyano seems to be related to flow. I moved powerheads, etc and it cleared up for the most part. This was before I got the reactor.

 

[spinnerbayt]

I have had one k3 and one k4 pump in there from day 1 plus about 500gph through the sump. I added a seio 1100 yesterday and can add a seio 1500 if needed. I know the root of the problem is the high phos and need to tackle that and get it down to an acceptable level.

 

[phljess]

sugars/carbohydrates also fuel red slime.

 

[phljess]

opps double post.

 

[carb850]

Your using RO/DI right? What TDS are you getting? Do you have new bulbs?

I believe the source of my phosphates is coming from the dry Fuji Pukani rock that I got from Marco. I have seen many posts on RC with people having the issues I am with the Marco. SO that is why I went with the Phosphate reactor.

 

[Tazbader]

yea, ro/di is a must pretty much for everything. you can get some phosban and a mesh bag and set it next to an inlet of your return in your sump/refuge. although the flow issue will need to be addressed too.....

 

[spinnerbayt]

I am using RO/DI now but had used some tap a while back when I first upgraded from the 55 to the 110. I do think this was the root of the problem. I don't think the flow is my major problem. Pump 1 k3 850gph, pump 2 k4 1200gph, pump 3 seio 1100gph, return pump 525gph. Before I go looking else where I need to get the phos in check. Is the phosban my best bet to get it back down? Bulbs are about 6 months old as I am not using the new MH setup yet because of the slime and I have one dead bulb. My TDS out of the RO/DI is 0.

 

[carb850]

I believe the Phosphates can only be coming from your food, your water, or leaching out of your rock. There are probably other sources but I'm not aware of them.

Some foods can be high in Phosphates. I started feeding less flake then started rinsing my frozen with RO/DI, but honestly I didn't see any change in my algae situation. BTW, my phosphates tested zero but I believe that is because the algae was consuming it all.

 

[Tazbader]

Phosban works great... so does another product called a Polyfilter. It looks like a piece of regular square of polyester filter media but it is very thick and stiff as it is impregnated with resins that suck up the phosphates and many other bad things out of your tank. Barry can get them and they last for 6 months at a time. Just throw them in the sump where they will get alot of flow thru them..... they also will remove medications, heavy metals, excess organics and copper.... they turn different colors depending on what they absorb (green for organics, grey for inorganics like meds and phosphates and blue for copper and other metals. You can also rejuvinate them somewhat by putting them in fresh ro water when they stop working as well (you can stretch out their usage another month or two). They have been around for many years but not alot of people know about them. I think they run about 25.00 which is for the 12x12 size. They make a smaller size but you can cut to fit and the 12x12 gives you the most bang for the buck. Plus, considering they last for 6 months to a year I consider that a bargain.


Someone above made an interesting point about phosphates leeching into a system from the rock. This is a very good point. I would never use any base rock product that isn't definitely 100% ocean reef based. The more real live rock you use the better, and it is a false rumour that too much live rock will deplete your system of oxygen. Anyway, hope you get it under control.

 

[spinnerbayt]

I'm sure its not the rock. I had the rock in the 55g for almost a year and never had a problem. I'll try and find some phosban over the weekend.

 

[LtPiper]

This is a question totally outta left field on this but is a good question I think. What brand of flake food are you using?

 

[firefish2020]

How deep is your sand?

Also side note to the flow issue: I believe the Gph on those Koralia have been tested and fall a bit shorter than what the box says.

 

[carb850]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12087515#post12087515 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tazbader

Someone above made an interesting point about phosphates leeching into a system from the rock. This is a very good point. I would never use any base rock product that isn't definitely 100% ocean reef based. The more real live rock you use the better, and it is a false rumour that too much live rock will deplete your system of oxygen. Anyway, hope you get it under control.

This is a side note to this thread, but I just wanted to point out that my dry rock is ocean based. However, it might have been mined from land? It appears to be 100% calcium carbonate, looks exactly like Fuji Pukani rock.

Also, I haven't heard of anyone using dry rock for fear of depleting oxygen. The people using the rock that I am is either to save cash or to ensure they don't get any unwanted hitchhikers.

I apologize for the side track.

 

[LtPiper]

Carb and spinner what brand of flake food are you using?

 

[carb850]

Omega One Marine Flakes but I only feed this maybe 3 times a week.

Oh, and I use Reef Crystals salt.

 

[LtPiper]

Well shatters my theory. I switched from the omega marine to tetra marine and hair algae problem started but I use Instant Ocean salt so.....

 

[firefish2020]

Reef Crystal can seemingly cause cyano outbreaks as well.

 

[mcox33]

I will never again use tetra food fresh or marine. No matter how little I feed I can watch it cloud the water.