High Pitch noise - Tunze w/controller
- Thread starter Playdope
- Start date
It is a maintanence alert, when the pump has been cleaned and is running properly this will stop, when you clean it go through the manual and make sure all the parts are present and clean. I say this because usually the problem is parts fused together by calcium deposits and this will illustrate which parts should seperate and what they should look like.
Hi Roger,
I have a 6100 running with a 7091 and have the same problem. I bought the pump second hand, and when it first did it I assumed it to be a calcium problem. Stripping it showed a fair amount of wear on the bushes, however I have now replaced all moving parts with new from Paraquatics here in the UK, but I still get the same problem. I strip it and clean it and it's fine for about 24 hours before it keeps stopping and starting again tripping the alarm, any ideas ? I love the pump but it is driving me mad !
I have a 6100 running with a 7091 and have the same problem. I bought the pump second hand, and when it first did it I assumed it to be a calcium problem. Stripping it showed a fair amount of wear on the bushes, however I have now replaced all moving parts with new from Paraquatics here in the UK, but I still get the same problem. I strip it and clean it and it's fine for about 24 hours before it keeps stopping and starting again tripping the alarm, any ideas ? I love the pump but it is driving me mad !
Jon, to get this level of energy efficiency the tolerances are very tight so it cannot take the same level of calcium build up as a cheeap pump with a big gap for the rotor, the spaces between parts are fractions of millimeters, I would expect to have to clean them every 3-6 months and I have stated that here repeatedly.
Kev, the usual problem and likely what Jon will find is the magnetic rotor is cemented to the upper bearing which is the part at the very bottom of the impeller well (called upper because when the pump is upright it is at the top, you work on it upside down) the other possible cause is the bush bearing is not fully seated, pry it out clean behind it and reinsert it rotated 180 degrees. This problem is more common with fine sand, high alkalinity or high calcium, to get a long service life run normal constant leves like 10-12 KH and 380-400ppm Calciium and be careful with Magnesium and Strontium. The worst combination to cause this problem is kalk with 2 part aditives since they tend to create a high pH environment. You will get the best life between cleaning with a well tuned calcium reactor giving the above parameters.
Kev, the usual problem and likely what Jon will find is the magnetic rotor is cemented to the upper bearing which is the part at the very bottom of the impeller well (called upper because when the pump is upright it is at the top, you work on it upside down) the other possible cause is the bush bearing is not fully seated, pry it out clean behind it and reinsert it rotated 180 degrees. This problem is more common with fine sand, high alkalinity or high calcium, to get a long service life run normal constant leves like 10-12 KH and 380-400ppm Calciium and be careful with Magnesium and Strontium. The worst combination to cause this problem is kalk with 2 part aditives since they tend to create a high pH environment. You will get the best life between cleaning with a well tuned calcium reactor giving the above parameters.
I don't think the sand is a problem in the long run, it is an issue of start up and getting some suspended sand particles caught in the pump. I would be sure to check also the center port of the magnet, this is where the water comes through to cool and lubricate the motor, sand can block this port and then the alarm is being sounded because a run dry condition is detected. To remedy this, pop out the brake shoes and take of the prop and shaft- it comes off as one assembly after the brake shoes are removed. Then just use a pipe cleaner or piece of wire to clear the hole.
Jon, Yes but if the alarm is already sounded I might just use pure white vinegar. This would be a good preventative maintanence but I would use 2-1 or 1-1. You can vinegar pretty cheap by the gallon in a generic brand.
Unfortunately Stuart, the only solution to this problem is to drill out the old drive unit and this is a big deal, it has to be done in 1/32" increments on a drill press with a bit stop. It won't take me anymore than 2 days to do, your down time will be minimal.
Unfortunately Stuart, the only solution to this problem is to drill out the old drive unit and this is a big deal, it has to be done in 1/32" increments on a drill press with a bit stop. It won't take me anymore than 2 days to do, your down time will be minimal.
