Hippo Tang w/ Ich

[jameskb]

"No "reef safe" treatment is effective. It's all garbage."

If you are refering to the RID ICH I mentioned above it is not considered reef safe it Contains formaldehyde and a zinc-free chloride salt of malachite green
Which from what I have been reading ingedients are good treatment for Ich, Brook, Velvet, Flukes and Uronema. I was just wondering if anyone has tried it as I have not
I was thinking it might be a good copper replacement treatment
And I must say again the Ich Attack worked for me, But I am not 100% sure it is gone thats why I am letting the DT go fallow

And yes I have learned my lesson I will QT everything for now on
1 neon gobie with 1 spot noticed after release in 2 weeks killed half my fish while treating with reef safe no ich (that did not work for me)

That store marketted malachite green treatment does nothing. When I started the hobby my first experiences with ich taught me that. It only kills the free-swiming form of the parasite and ignores the encysted form and the parasites actually on your fish. While this may be similar to what copper does, copper is effective, Rid Ich, No Ich, Clout, all suck. Two best methods are the Hypo-salinity and the copper method. They are not always the easiest on your fish but they work =P

The only success I've had with any chemicals to treat ich aside from copper was Metronidazole but that success wasn't replicated later so I dont put stock in it. Besides I think it's intended to work on internal parasites =P

@ ArtemisGoldfish: You're assuming that the parasite would immediatly become a noticeable infestation if it found a host, yet we know that fish become extremely susceptible to ich when stressed, etc. You are ruling out small unnoticed intermittent infection entirely then? Meaning you think ich would have to turn into a big noticed infection that threatened the lives of your fish (ie ich as we know it) for it to exist at all? How is it then that with no infected fish, and no new additions, ich can be a problem when fish become stressed? What's your explanation for when that happens, surely ich doesn't arrive in the aquarium via water changes madeup from chlorinated freshwater from your local water utility?

 

[ArtemisGoldfish]

@ ArtemisGoldfish: You're assuming that the parasite would immediatly become a noticeable infestation if it found a host, yet we know that fish become extremely susceptible to ich when stressed, etc. You are ruling out small unnoticed intermittent infection entirely then? Meaning you think ich would have to turn into a big noticed infection that threatened the lives of your fish (ie ich as we know it) for it to exist at all? How is it then that with no infected fish, and no new additions, ich can be a problem when fish become stressed? What's your explanation for when that happens, surely ich doesn't arrive in the aquarium via water changes madeup from chlorinated freshwater from your local water utility?

Read the five articles above. The parasite has a life cycle. Part of the life cycle is the encysting stage. So yes, it will have to go to that stage or it will fail to reproduce. It's not that I "think" anything. This is what happens as it's scientific fact. If you have it in your tank, then you failed to quarantine properly. It's that simple. Also, it's not "ich." It's Cryptocaryon.

The parasite will continue to reproduce although at a less prolific rate when the fish's immune system is more capable at repelling the parasite. Additionally, the encysting stage that you see on the fish are hundreds of cysts which then become apparent due to grouping. You will be unable to see individual cysts just like you can't see the free swimming or initial infection stages unless you are looking under a microscope.

You're using circular logic and anecdotal evidence to back your point. Again, read the articles places above that are chock full of peer reviewed research.

 

[sea of cortez]

Jameskb
So from what you said about the garden eels, am I right in thinking that if I leave the tank fallow but with the eels in it I would still break the live cycle of the ich and or velvet

 

[ArtemisGoldfish]

Jameskb
So from what you said about the garden eels, am I right in thinking that if I leave the tank fallow but with the eels in it I would still break the live cycle of the ich and or velvet

I'd advise you to do some (veritable) research regarding eels and thier disease susceptibility. That'll give you the most confidence and knowledge with your treatment.

 

[terry4505]

I believe the Hyposalinity was effective in treating the Ich. I was dismayed friday when I looked in and my tang, that had been spot free, was sporting new spots.

I assumed this had to do with the life cycle of the parasite, and was just a minor setback.

Upon closer inspection, I realized this was a different type of infection. The spots looked like they had "little tails" hanging off. I did some research and it appears to be Velvet.

I slowly raised the salinty back up, and have begun slowly adding copper to the QT. Hopefully, the copper will effectively kill both parasites.

The tangs skin looks bumpy and flakey on her face, I am pretty sure it is velvet. She is still eating great, but has gone back to being very shy (which was a symptom she displayed when first infected with Ich). She eats multiple times a day and aside from the visible bumps/flakey-ness and heavier breathing, whe seems ok.

I am really hoping she makes it through this,

 

[jameskb]

Jameskb
So from what you said about the garden eels, am I right in thinking that if I leave the tank fallow but with the eels in it I would still break the live cycle of the ich and or velvet

In my experience the slime coat of an eel is too thick to allow it to become infested.
@art really, you're going to word Nazi us calling it saltwater ich? I believe that is an acceptable common name unless you insist on referring to all marine pets by their scientific name only?

 

[jameskb]

I believe the Hyposalinity was effective in treating the Ich. I was dismayed friday when I looked in and my tang, that had been spot free, was sporting new spots.

I assumed this had to do with the life cycle of the parasite, and was just a minor setback.

Upon closer inspection, I realized this was a different type of infection. The spots looked like they had "little tails" hanging off. I did some research and it appears to be Velvet.

I slowly raised the salinty back up, and have begun slowly adding copper to the QT. Hopefully, the copper will effectively kill both parasites.

The tangs skin looks bumpy and flakey on her face, I am pretty sure it is velvet. She is still eating great, but has gone back to being very shy (which was a symptom she displayed when first infected with Ich). She eats multiple times a day and aside from the visible bumps/flakey-ness and heavier breathing, whe seems ok.

I am really hoping she makes it through this,

The copper will work well. Be sure to use a copper test kit to ensure the copper levels stay optimum as they may begin to fall quickly or slowly depending on the type of copper product you've bought. Best of luck friend, keep that QT low stress, low lighting etc for a day or two.

 

[terry4505]

Light is low, in the basement so low traffic. Anecdotally, hippo tang seems to be doing slightly better already.

I bought the Seachem test kit (it was all LFS had), copper is slowly coming up