How and What to feed FROGSPAWN

Bmgrocks

New member
Got some new frogspawn tonight, and acclimated it and everything. It ended up expanding 3 times the size that it was in the LFS, It was under MH, and In Mine its under PC, and T5's

It was at that LFS for around 2 months, i watched it grow, and i began to start my reef.

What Should I feed it. I am dosing PurpleUp, so my Carbonite hardness is around 350, good for SPS?

and dose DT's Phytoplankton every 2 days. is their any other supplemental feeding necessairy. Its about 3" from the lights.
 
I feed mine any meaty bits that the rest of the tank gets...cut up shrimp, mysis, brine, flake. I feed mine every weekend. I take a baster type squirter thing and squirt water I'm feeding right into the tentacles. They grab it up and pull it towards the mouth. Kinda cool :) Good luck with it!
 
bmgrock,
After you finish with that bottle of purpleup... I would not buy another. start looking at two part calcium and alk suppliments. the 350 you mention is probably calcium, not alk.

you can dilute some brine shrimps in a little bit of water and use a turkey paster to feed your frogsprawn.
 
I use mysis and cyclopeeze for my Euphyllias about every other day. They will take most any finely chopped seafood you want to give, plus some pellets (Ocean Nutrition pellets are usually accepted pretty easily).
 
Make sure you place it decently high. The reason it is likely expanded that large isn't necessarily a good sign, but likely an attempt to gather more light.

I would agree with the food. Mysis and cylopeeze work well, but pellets actually work about the best. You can have them fall directly on the target, and they "stick" pretty well.
 
I used B-ionic for a while, but now use Randy's home made two part, much cheaper. (in the reef chemistry forum). Secondly, for SPS, you really need to be on top of Ca, Mg and Alk readings and have it stable for a couple of weeks at 400-450Ca, 1350-1500Mg and 3.00-3.90meq/L for alk. (Not to mention 0 NO3!) Your lighting is a bit on the low side for SPS but keeping many LPS with SPS in a small tank it tricky. Also, your low flow is not quite up for many SPS either but you should be able tokeep a monti or two very high up (becareful because they will grow and shade out thing beneath)

As far as the frog, a but of shrimp or pellets does a good job.
By the way, I also have the Ocellaris and Black (Ocellaris) clowns too, very interresting dynamic!
 
Does everyone really feed their Euphyllia sp? I haven't fed any of mine directly in the 5 years or so that I have had it.

Now, if you all are feeding them to make them STOP growing, I'm all ears.
 
Do I need to upgrade my lights, Im running this kida Rag Tag Lights

Both have 10,000k's and Actinics

2 55 watt bulbs in a 24" Jebo Fixture
2 18 watt bulbs in a Coralife t5 Aqualight Fixture

146 watts, but I think the bulbs need replacing in the Jebo,and its old and falling apart.

Thought about upgrading

NewLight.gif

Its only 130 watts, would it be enough for my 29
* Dual 65W bulb unit (130W of Light!).
* 2x 65W Coralife 50/50 (Actinic/10,000K)Compact Fluorescent Lamps Included.
* Built-in Electronic Ballast.
* Two built-in fans.

Im only going to keep this frogspawn, with some GSP, Xenia, Buttons, Shrooms and Leathers..

Please help me improve my set up.
 
that would be plently of light for the corals you listed to survive.

You could probably fit the t5's on there behind that fixture if you are terribly concerned about it.
 
agreed mostly with the above

First off when you try feeding the coral try shutting off all of your pumps for around one hour so the coral has time to eat.

Secondly 350 calcium IMO is just tad on the low side
try getting a decent full range test kit say Seachem.
DkH should be around 7-12 and ph above 8.0
lighting
you should be Ok but if you want a NICE cheap upgrade go to www.aquatraders.com you will find quality lighting at a cheap price.

Cheers,
nate
 
I have never directly fed my frog spawn. It picks up allot from what I feed my fish and the rest of the tank. Mostly Mysis and water changes. So IMO direct feeding is not a neccessity just extra.

Ed C
 
I have alot (and I mean alot) of euphylia's, and i have never seen any of them activly eat large (visible to the naked eye) pieces of food.
 
First off you sound just like me when I started. Now I'm planning a 150g tank. Never thought it would go this far. So let me tell you want I wish someone would have told me. Plan ahead! Corals are not like fish. They are addicting, more like crack, so plan your lights to handle almost anything. Get a good skimmer. Doesn't have to be a expensive skimmer, just one that works good. Be ready to do some DIY projects. This will save you money that you can spend on corals. Maxi jet mod, Randy's 2 part, custom hood..... read, read, read. What I would do: buy a 150w 14k metal halide retro kit of ebay, build a hood with a cheap clip on fan from wal-mart. Order actinics bulbs for the t5 fixture and buy a digital coralife timer. Run your t5 for 12hours and your MH with fan for 7 hours. Order a kit from www.twopartsolution.com to use for your alk and calcium. Use it until you can find the parts on you own at Lowe's. Then start working on a sump. Then when you are done, you will have clean water, lights than can handle any corals(on timers), and plus you will have saved yourself lots of money by not buying what will just get you by. You might not be this way, but I was and I just was hoping to save you the headache I had. Oh, almost forgot.... silly me... lots of live rock and clean-up crew. They are more important than you will ever know. If your tank is not at least half full of live rock... buy more! Just my 2 cents but I hope it helps. Good luck.
 
I've used the Kent Marine Liquid Reactor in the past, and I have to say be careful with it. I discovered that the additive is really slow to dissolve in the water, and my skimmer would remove it from the water. My calcium level drop to 200 as the result of using it. I switched back to the two part additives.

By the way, I never feed my frogspawn. It has gotten really big over the year.
 
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