how are your free zoo frags doing?

supertech99

New member
I was just wanting to check on the brothers and sisters fo my first coral which I got at the club meeting on sunday. My guys have not opened yet but i have seen little peeks of pink and green on the ends. How is everyone else doing?
 
I didn't get any, but zooanthids definitely seem to respond to being placed and left alone and will usually get pretty angry when they get moved around. The ones that I've had have always done best when I put them somewhere and have totally forgotten about them.

So, it sounds like yours are starting to get happier, but definitely do not fear that they aren't fully opened yet.
 
I had 1 pinkish light orange color one open today. With time the others will open and look awsome. Thanks MTRC and The Jungle
 
As of this morning mine have still not opened up. Hopefully by tonight they will be coming out okay. It takes time and leaving them alone for the most part. patience in this hobby is a most desired asset :-)
 
Hey you whack me out of my home with a hammer and throw me in a new place I'll be ****ed for a few days too. Laugh I have been working so much lately dont know if mine have opened yet or not but I am sure they will do fine.
 
Just make sure you put it under a stronger flow when you first get it. Not super strong, just about medium. Actinics will help it to open up. Give it a few days to settle in. They'll open soon enough, IF they don't, send them my way!!!! :)
 
I still have only one open today. It looks more pink and know I can see some green on the edges. I have 3 more that I can see a little orange color the size of a pin head. All others are still closed up tight. :dance: "Anticipation its making me wait" :lol:
 
I am so glad to hear that mine are in the same shape as all of yours...i thought for sure I killed it- mine are not open yet either- i am getting ready to post a "what is this?" if anyone has aminute chec it out and let me know- also I think the clown fish I picked up the jungle at the meetin gon Sunday have ick....any thoughts?
Hollie
 
the coral beauty I got at the jungle has a mild case of the ich also but i cant say much about that because my tank has had it before and i treated it with garlic food, organic ich attack and increasing the fish slime coat. so really just offered symptom relief and nothing to attack the parasite. I was suprised to see how well garlic soaked food helped the first time i tried it. i just put garlic in a coffee grinder (used for fish food only) with some ro water and then soak their food in it. it has helped my clowns eat more and improved their overall health. I also increased the slime coat with some water additive and dosing with vodka at a higher amt than usual daily dose. this creates a white slimy growth on everything, which helps prevent parasites from attaching to the fish and also coats the fish wounds from old patrasited helping them heal. read up on vodka before you try it though
 
o yeah also i had one open all the way but he did not like the garlic food i put into the tank tonight cuse he closed and 3 others were about 1/2 open. we are getting happy!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13735845#post13735845 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by supertech99
read up on vodka before you try it though

I'd just like to reiterate this. I know we have a few "wild and crazy" folk in this club that are using vodka or other sugar additives (names withheld to protect their identity). It seems like it might actually be a pretty positive thing and I've considered doing it... but from everything I've read it is quite easy to mess up if you aren't careful and consistent.

I'm pretty careful, but I like automation because my consistency is shaky at best...
 
Wayne, Wayne, Wayne.... :lol:

Some reaserch suggests that the med Metronidazole can help the fish with ick and it is in some over the counter meds and is reef safe. Also you can get it from a vet if you have a conection since it is a prescription med and crush it up in some food. The thought is if the fish can fight off ick for a few cycles it can make it on its own with no aggressive treatment (copper) or PITA stuff like hypo. My freind Julie had it pretty bad and she licked it with metro,garlic and selcon mush. The fish can develope a natural immunity to ick and ones who have lived through it will be less prone to get it but any new additions will be much more suseptable if there is any left in the tank.

I still feel like QT and hypo are the best way to never have it in the first place but I know that is not feesable for everyone. Good luck with the fish and zoas!
I hope you all dipped the zoas... I have been opening this thread expecting to see someone say DARN NUDIES! All wild caught zoas are very likely to have nudies and spiders. Did anyone at the meeting give the proper zoa dip guidlines? If you guys did not dip the zoas I would go ahead and give them a FW dip (temp and PH adjusted) to be safe. Zoa eating nudies should not have traveled off the frag yet unless you stuck them right beside another colony of zoas. And they only come out at night so you will not see them by just looking.
Also running actinic only will help encourage them to open. Bright light tends to keep them closed and running actinics only for a few days will not harm any other corals. Zoas can be tempermental right after fraggin but I hardley ever have them stay closed up tight like thease are for this long and I have chopped up lots of zoas which makes me feel even stronger they may have something other than being fragged bothering them. I have had some stay shut for a few weeks actually and be fine but its not the norm :).

Also I want to clarify I wasn't thinking the Jungle offered a bad coral because when the store gets stuff in it comes from the ocean and all fish and corals have a good chance of bringing in pests. Its the hobbiests responsibility to properly dip and QT there livestock. At the very least a FW dip for fish before going in the main tank is a good idea to knock off any pests.

Sorry for turning this thread into a disease FYI ;)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13736738#post13736738 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DMBillies
I'd just like to reiterate this. I know we have a few "wild and crazy" folk in this club that are using vodka or other sugar additives (names withheld to protect their identity). It seems like it might actually be a pretty positive thing and I've considered doing it... but from everything I've read it is quite easy to mess up if you aren't careful and consistent.

I'm pretty careful, but I like automation because my consistency is shaky at best...

VERY EASY to mess up, I use a medical syringe (i work in a hospital so they are free) that only holds 3ml total so I can dose 1/2 very accurately and cleanly! I also have a very compitent tank sitter so no biggie. All my fish are drunkards hehehehehe
 
don't want to beat a dead horse but I like scientific stuff!

Metronidazole (INN) (pronounced /mɛtrəˈnaɪdəzoʊl/) is a nitroimidazole anti-infective medication used mainly in the treatment of infections caused by susceptible organisms, particularly anaerobic bacteria and protozoa. It is marketed by Pfizer under the trade name Flagyl in the US, while Sanofi-Aventis markets metronidazole globally under the same tradename, Flagyl, and also by various generic manufacturers, who sell it at a lower price. Metronidazole is also used as a gel preparation in the treatment of the dermatological conditions such as rosacea (Rozex and MetroGel by Galderma) and fungating tumours (Anabact, Cambridge Healthcare Supplies).

Metronidazole is a prodrug. It is converted in anaerobic organisms by the redox enzyme pyruvate-ferredoxin oxidoreductase. The nitro group of metronidazole is chemically reduced by ferredoxin (or a ferredoxin-linked metabolic process) and the products are responsible for disrupting the DNA helical structure, thus inhibiting nucleic acid synthesis.

Metronidazole is selectively taken up by anaerobic bacteria and sensitive protozoal organisms because of the ability of these organisms to reduce metronidazole to its active form intracellularly.
 
Back
Top