How do I get my anemone to stop looking like crap?

[organism]

I know they look normal, I just mean it's not at all what it looked like when I bought it. This thing was flame red with striations, bubbled yes, and beautiful. All of my other corals look exactly like they did when I got them, just bigger. My anemone's are bigger too, just bigger and ugly. I was just wondering if anyone has cracked the code.

That has more to do with light spectrum if your water quality is ok. In a whiter spectrum you're going to have the issues you listed and under lower light they'll get bigger and browner, but under a stronger bluer spectrum you'll see better color. In order to regain its original color you have to provide its original light spectrum and intensity. You're right in your first post, the more royal blue the better the colors, the more white the more washed out. Turn your blues up and your whites way, way down and you'll probably start seeing the colors you're after in 2-4 weeks.

 

[hotelbravo]

i just dont understand how you think its ugly. thats a nice looking bta

 

[hypnoj]

i just dont understand how you think its ugly. thats a nice looking bta

I appreciate that. I just mean it was bubbled and bright red/orange when I purchased it a year ago. I'm gonna turn my whites down/off and deepen my blues.

 

[hypnoj]

>I was reading somewhere the corolation between anemones tenticles to how they bubble up and its relation to light. Do you have 1 auroa puck or 2, what are you using for spectrum control and intensity, what eco tech lenses are you using if any?

1 aurora puck, no lenses ( have lenses but took them off to get a better spread on such a shallow tank), I can control all colors independently.

 

[kwsjimmy]

how high are the less off the water line? With my previous diy led's I found that I didn't get very good deep water penetration, then went the direction of lenses, defiantly better, but ended up going the radion xr30pro direction. With out a par meter it's hard to determine go the light penetrates the water. With the par meter I found that with the lenses either the tie wide or standard 90's I had much better penetration and spread with the less about 8" above the water line which is hard to do with a lid. Then changed tanks to a rimless . Maybe as a test put the lens on and see how the anemone responds?

 

[hypnoj]

how high are the less off the water line? With my previous diy led's I found that I didn't get very good deep water penetration, then went the direction of lenses, defiantly better, but ended up going the radion xr30pro direction. With out a par meter it's hard to determine go the light penetrates the water. With the par meter I found that with the lenses either the tie wide or standard 90's I had much better penetration and spread with the less about 8" above the water line which is hard to do with a lid. Then changed tanks to a rimless . Maybe as a test put the lens on and see how the anemone responds?

I took the lens off because I have a PAR meter and was easily getting 100 PAR on the sand without the lens. I would say that my LEDs are 4 - 5 inches off of the water. They are retro fit in the stock hood that biocubes come with.

 

[kwsjimmy]

Try playing with the color spectrum say full blue , royal blue, full uv, and see what it does. What's your current light intensity on 0-100%

 

[hypnoj]

I had been running RB 100%, UV 100%, whites 50%, green, orange, red, 50%.
I now have my RB 100%, UV 50%, whites 0%, green, orange, red, 25%. I've always wondered about having UV being up so high.

 

[kwsjimmy]

leds

leds

Right now im running

RB - 100%
B - 100%
UV -100%
W - 15%
at 10% intensity ( acclimating a new neon green i just picked up - picture taken at this lighting)

MY day cycle is totally different

RB - 100%
B - 100%
UV -100%
R - 30%
W - 15%

my day light start all at 0 , then ramps up to 50% from 12-2 ( white and red ramp in ratio) then the lights drop down the intensity to 10 ( red and white to 0$) at 9pm and all off

 

[hypnoj]

Right now im running

RB - 100%
B - 100%
UV -100%
W - 15%
at 10% intensity ( acclimating a new neon green i just picked up - picture taken at this lighting)

MY day cycle is totally different

RB - 100%
B - 100%
UV -100%
R - 30%
W - 15%

my day light start all at 0 , then ramps up to 50% from 12-2 ( white and red ramp in ratio) then the lights drop down the intensity to 10 ( red and white to 0$) at 9pm and all off

what is your ratio of UV LEDs to blues? Mine is 1:1

 

[kwsjimmy]

• Cool White: 8 Cree XP-G2 (40W)
• Deep Blue: 8 Osram Oslon Square (40W )
• Blue: 8 Cree XP-E (24W)
• Green: 4 Cree XP-E (14W)
• Hyper Red: 4 Osram Oslon SSL (12W)
• Yellow: 2 Osram Oslon SSL (6W)
• Indigo: 4 SemiLEDs (10W)
• UV: 4 SemiLEDs (10W)

 

[hypnoj]

ok, good. So I'll turn my whites up a little bit to 25% and keep my UV's at 50% since my ratio is 1:1 and your ratio is 2:1.

 

[kwsjimmy]

I think the more uv the better

 

[hypnoj]

really? Does anyone else feel that way? I thought UV would be doing the most damage.

 

[kwsjimmy]

All the newer full spectrum uv loghts are including more uv spectrum lights, pretty ire theirs a good chunk of usable light in the uv spectrum for photosynthesis, and it makes everything glow. But for growth I believe it's in the rb , red , blue zone