How do I sculpt Dry Fiji?

[PIPSTER]

I'm thinking I can use a chisel or screwdriver and hammer to shape a larger piece of rock into something interesting, just some small changes. If I chip a little bit away, will the rock underneath still look natural? Or does Fiji show the broke off area as just flat and accidental looking?

 

[AdamNC]

It will be flat, but if you sculpt the flat spot you can make it work. Flat spots are also helpful for mounting frags to if you break off the frag stem.

 

[Despairodyne]

I've been experimenting with round, carbide hacksaw blades. They are about 1/8" in diameter an cut almost anything.

You can find them on Amazon.

 

[PIPSTER]

It will be flat, but if you sculpt the flat spot you can make it work. Flat spots are also helpful for mounting frags to if you break off the frag stem.

thanks for sharing your experience. I needed to know before I buy...I think I'll still stick with Fiji type, but I guess my fear is being able to see and choose the shape I want, which is impossible when ordering from BRS, or other online shipper. I was hoping I could buy a bigger rock and chisel\chip into a basic shape with the chipped area still looking porous.

 

[RocketEngineer]

I used an old 1/4" wide chisel. Most of the time the rock was soft enough where I didn't need a hammer. I was able to carve out caves, shape pieces to fit into structures, or create holes for frag plugs:

First Structure:

The second structure I made involved reworking a large rock in the center of my display:
Before:


After:


Both structures are supported by a PVC frame, then zip ties and glue hold the pieces in place.

 

[PIPSTER]

Thanks for the shots, RE!

hmmmm...maybe I can stick with the original plan.

One of my thoughts is to carve out the side of a squarish rock to create a slight overhang, with the bottom of the rock on the same side sloping outward to place zoas on, without the concave carved part looking like it was cut. Kinda like the side profile of a wave just before it tops over.