How do you know when you need to replace your MH SE bulbs ?

Avalanche Wolf

New member
I noticed my SPS not liking to be anywhere close to the middle or top of the tank but like it on the bottom on the sand bed. It is the same with all my SPS this way.

I am wondering if it is just too bright for them or maybe the bulbs need to be replace.

For those that dont know it is a 100 G with 2x250 14k and 1x175 20k , they came with the hood when i bought it used.

I also run 2x96watt PC attinics.


Like i said just wondering if it is time to replace the bulbs. If I dont run the attinics the tank looks VERy yellow
 
If the tank looks yellow without actinics with those MH bulbs, then it is probiably time to replace them. None of the MH bulbs you have should be yellowish in appearance.
 
hmmm not able to find any 250w SE bulb except Hamilton beech ones. They are 14k at 60 bucks a bulb which i suppose is not too bad. Now i just have to find them in stock. Hellolights were out of stock at the time.
 
Thanks for the Link ! I posted the following :

I was finally able to upgrade my aquarium lighting to Hamilton Technology ~ Metal Halide Lamps 3 x 250 Watt + 96w Power Compacts .

I was told there was a few months left on the bulbs but from tanks I have seen and advise I am getting ( without people actually looking at the bulbs ) it seems that date has expired.

The system was bought with 2x250w 10k and 1x175w 20k lamps in it along with 2x96w PC attinics

When the attinics are off the tank is VERY yellow , with them on it is more of a white balance with a tad bit of blue.

I am concerned with this since my SPS frags only really seem to like it on the bottom of the tank ( 100 Gallon AGA ) even though the research I have done says these corals should only be placed mid to mid/high in the tank as they need a huge ammount of lighting.


So if a person without a date of first turned on figure out when a MH lamp needs to be replaced ?
 
whan the spectrum of the bulb changes to a yellow / green color or about 12 months. You could run it longer, to say 18 months depending on usage, but as they age the spectrum shifts on MH's. As the spectrum changes, the corals are unable to use the light being provided. In addition, the bulbs tend to run hotter as they age causing more heat output.
 
Hmmm , I am have also started having problems with heat as well which was not there when i first got these.

Def sounds like the time to replace them.

Thanks for all the input !
 
No problem. John at YR usually has good prices on MH bulbs, however he will probably have to order the bulbs as his selection is somewhat limited in store.
 
Yah I ended up at CRS where he didnt have the 14k's I wanted but after talking with him seems 10k is a good go between 14k/6.5k which he told me would be best for SPS ( the 6.5k )

I am waiting for them to get really bright one side is looking like it normally does with my attinics on while the other side is still a bit yellow but it has only been on for aout 8 mins now.

Is there a break in process for bulbs like only using them for short periods until the bulb fully breaks in ?

On thing i did notice is that the bulbs are the same brand/watts/both 10k but are made differant inside. Is this common with lamps and just a assembler discreation thing ?
 
yah I had them on for 2 hours and then let them cool for an hour when I turned them back on the left side when right back to a nice clear white but the right side is still way yellow. Wondering if I should call CRS and see if I can swap this one for another as it doesnt seem to be changing color like the other already did.

All my zenia on that side are NOT happy with the light either but ones on the left side are bigger than they have been for awhile.
 
If they are the same bulb / same manufacturer, then the inside should not be different. The only way that could happen is if one is a lot older or newer than the others. I'd also be suspicious if the color output is different. I'd return the odd bulb and exchange for another. Also break in of the bulbs takes a couple days to a week. The time you run them per day really doesn't matter. Although if you run them longer per day the time frame to change to "normal output" will be shorter. My Hamilton 10K bulb took almost a full week to change to the whitish / subtle yellow that it is now. Between 10k's and actinic the tank should look "super white". If you turn off any actinic lighting and run the 10k's alone the color output should be white with a hint of yellow.

If the xenia isn't happy, then your old bulbs definitely needed to be changed. The new bulbs are putting out more light than the old ones and it should only take a couple of days for the xenia to adjust.
 
I am going to take them back tomorrow because right now i am REALLY not happy with the color of the tank. I thought replacing Ushio 10k's for Hamilton 10k's would be about the same and I like the color of the left side but the right is just ..... even with the PC attinics turned on. I just hope it wont be a problem tomorrow.

I now know i should have waited to get the 14ks when they came in :(
 
14k offees a nice compromise between the growth of a 10k and the blue visual aesthetics of a 20k. I think the trade is worth it.
 
Hehehe.......Welcome to the fun world of MH bulb selection........it can be fun to play with and to experiment with to "tune" in your tank for just the right look and performance, or a pain to get a straight forward, clear cut answer.

If it were not bad enough that there are so many colors(K) to choose from, the vary from manufacturer to manufacturer....bulb to bulb, SE to DE, ballast to ballast.

You can supplement them with VHOs, T5s, or PCs to get a different effect and still add another variable by changing them colorwise.

This can be fun or a nightmare to tune in.

Things to think about:

1. You have 250s over a 100g correct.....this means weather you choose anything from a 10K to a 20K you will have enough PAR to keep stuff happy, healthy and thriving. This is the main reason I switched from 150DE to 250DE.....I wanted a bluer bulb and the choices were limited and the drop in PAR, just going to a 14K was so great I was having trouble keeping color.

2. New bulbs take about a week to break in and become there "true" color. In addition, your eyes may not be used to them yet. Give it a little time before you take them back......fired bulbs don't get much of a trade in....keep them for an emergency or sell them here if you hate them.

3. Look at other tanks in person and decide what "color" or "look" you want and ask them what they are using. I personally like the "silver" color of the 14K Ushios and have gone to the Phoenix 14K for a change and like it.

4. As mentioned, a basic rule of thumb......10Ks are really Yellow and in most opinions ugly, but on average have more PAR for faster growth. 20Ks have that cool ocean blue look that everyone likes but on average have less PAR. I agree and find 14Ks a nice balance between the two to get "the look" and performance for growth. The "performance" change from 10K to 20K is noticable but not dramatic.......if your growing for frags and want production, go with 400w 10K.......other than that, you have MH already and whatever bulb you like the looks of will probably be fine.

4. If your not familiar visit Sanjay Joshi's site for bulb info.....
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/index.htm

5. See what others are using and why they like them........having DEs, I can't be much help....but the old favorite is the Radium 20K, XMs, and Ushio, Reeflux, Geissman and Pheonix are a few others I believe the SE guys like.

Trial and error is the best way to find what you want and most people have a few bulbs lying around that they didn't like.....I know I do. I have found Marine Depot a good resource due to a large selection if you have not, check there

Oh yeah....they start to shift and loose PAR between 8 months and a year but based primarily on hrs per day used....I usually get bored and want to play with them every six months to try something new.

But going back to your original post, define "not liking the top" for your SPS placement.

FWIW I run 2-250DE which on average are more focused and intense than SEs over my 75g which is a shallow tank........I have a lot of pieces way up high.......I don't think you have "too much light" and it could be something else. If thats the reason for the bulb change......maybe we should address the SPS behavior first?
 
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