how hard are bubble tip anemones to keep?

Cahooligan

New member
I'm curious how much harder bubbletip anemone are to keep that corals. I have a 75 reef that's successful with mostly lps and some softies. As far as I can see they are healthy, and to me they are not hard to keep at all provided water conditions are met(and they always are). Anyways I'm going to be doing an anemone/clown display in my 29g tank. It has 2 skimmers and a refugium. My question is that how much harder are btas to keep compared to LPS? I'm going to set up my aquascape as 2 bommies with various crevaces and will keep params at the appropriate levels. Is there anything in specific that I need to look out for to ensure success that is different than keeping corals?
 
They are not hard to keep at all if you provide them with what they need. I've had mine about 3 months and he's doubled in size at least. I have 4x24w T-5 and he is about 1ft from the lights. I feed him 1 piece of krill or a silverside, once per week.

So you're going to be setting up a whole new tank for the nem and its clowns? Most would recommend having the tank running for at least 6 months before adding one.
 
you need to make sure the tank is safe for the bta. what i mean is that they will often take
a trip into a powerhead, overflow, or what have you.
 
I've personally found my BTA's to be not too much harder to keep compared to coral (I have 3 small green BTA's that seem to split when they hit about 3" and 2 nice RBTA's - it just split after having two mouths since I got it in August). The big issue seems to be keeping all their needs met so they don't walk around the tank killing coral.

One of the important things is that you will want to ensure that your lights are strong enough - most seem to suggest multiple T-5's and/or Halide (some are also using LED, but I know very little about LED lighting as I am just starting to look at it). Mine are under a pair of 250 watt Halides (14K bulbs) with 3 54 Watt T-5's (Blue Plus) and they are all in the top 8" of the tank. Of note, I upgraded my lighting from 2 175 Watt Halides at the end of September and noticed a big difference in how much they opened and how much better they looked overall - so although you can keep them in lower light, I suspect that more is better (so long as they are acclimatized to it).

Also, most people who seem to be able to keep them happy long term suggest that you introduce them to a rock with holes or crevices so that they can hide their foot from the light - from what I've read, it seems to cut down their chances of going on a walkabout around your tank (and over your coral)

The other big area of contention is whether to feed them or not. I personally think feeding is good (in my limited experience), but the key seems to be in keeping the pieces small (like the size of an eraser from a pencil). I personally feed mine a couple of times per week and rotate through a few different foods - Table Shrimp, Scallops and Krill and I'll sometimes squirt a bit of mysis at them from they turkey baster. Of note, some people on this board with a lot of experience have had issues with SilverSides, so I personally have stayed away from them.

Still learning myself, but hopefully this helps.

Cheers,
K
 
Ok thank you. I won't have any coral, so it really doesn't matter where they end up as long as its on the rockwork. Its a 4 bulb t5 fixture. And I know to make sure there are crevaces.
 
Thing to remember is that a healthy anemone will own your tank. My rose bulb has split twice and takes up most of the room in my forty. They get some mysis and it's lit by a single 175 Hamilton 14k bulb. Protect them from power heads cover them and you'll be fine.

Jason
 
I'm a new anemone-keeper, so I hope you get some input from some of the very experienced members on this forum. That said, this is what has been working for me so far:

1. A mature tank--mine has been up and running for 18 months. A minimum of 6 months is recommended; I took longer because I had a few different "themes" in this tank before finally deciding that I wanted to try an anemone for my clowns. I was also really nervous about caring for an anemone, having tried it unsuccessfully once before.

2. Stable water parameters--no detectable phosphates or nitrates, pH about 8.6, KH about 9, temperature about 82F (the propagator I bought my nem from keeps hers on the warm side).

3. Lighting is 150W/14K MH, with 2 36W actinic bulbs, run for 10 hours a day. MH isn't essential, from what I understand, but it's what I have on my tank and the anemone hasn't moved. They'll move if the light is too strong or too dim for them. The anemone is located about halfway down in the tank, directly under the MH bulb, and seems to be loving it.

4. Flow--provided by the return pump and 2 powerheads placed on opposites sides of the tank. The powerhead nearest to the anemone is positioned so that the current goes past the anemone, not directly at it. Make sure to cover your powerheads! The models I own came with foam sleeves that fit over the intake. I also anchored them in place with a rubber band, just in case.

5. Rock--mine has lots of crevices, which BTAs like to settle their feet into, and forms a kind of little grotto that the anemone sticks its tentacles out of. At night, it deflates a bit and withdraws into the cave. I think they like having an enclosed space, such as a cave or a deep crevice, to withdraw into if they sense a threat. It's also a good idea to construct a bommie--that is, an isolated island of rock--to keep the anemone away from your corals, if you have any. It's also supposed to discourage wandering, since the anemone isn't as likely to crawl across something it can't get a grip on (like sand).

6. Feeding--I've read a lot of differing opinions on this topic. The aquarist I bought my BTA clone from advises feeding two or three times a week with silversides, shrimp, or mollusk flesh. I'm avoiding feeding silversides, after hearing/reading that some anemone-keepers have had problems with them. I've fed my anemone three times so far, with tiny (smaller than a pencil eraser) bits of thawed krill, mysis, scallop, and squid. I'm planning to do more research into this topic, because there is such a wide difference of opinion on how much and what to feed BTAs (or whether to feed them at all).

7. Aquacultured--I think cloned BTAs are the way to go. They're hardier,acclimated to captivity, have to undergo much less shipping stress, and don't require the collection of a wild anemone that wild clownfishes and other animals need for a home.

Again, let me stress that this is only my second attempt at keeping an anemone, so I'm far from being an expert. I'm just going by personal observation and research. But that's one of the things I enjoy most about reefkeeping--it's a continual learning process. HTH!
 
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I have a 90 gallon. I have a rbta clone and it was 4" and found a home in the back of my tank on the sand/rock and it grow to 12" in 5 months and never split and is still in the same spot. I also have a gbta clone and it is 5" and never moved that one is 6" from the bottom. I nver feed them well once in a blue moon. I have a 4 bulb retro in my hood and it's 7" above water 3 blue plus and one 12 or 10k day light. they have never split and I have had them for 8 months. they must be very happy lol. From my experience gbta's grow alot slower than the rbta's.
 
Nitrates and phosphates will be low due to adequate filtration and low bioload. Thanks for all of the info everyone.
 
I too am taking another stab at BTA's. I tried a few years ago unsucessfully. I put one in on Sunday and it has moved, now it is in a cave where I cannot get at it to feed it, any suggestions.

Andy
 
Pehaps rearrang things so it moves again. I've heard pointing a powerhead in that general direction will cause it to move as well as they don't like strong flow.
 
I don't think anyone has asked, or maybe I missed it. Are the two protein skimmers in a sump? I believe anemones are actually easier to keep than most LPS coral. you generally don't have to worry about anything in the tank killing your anemone. It'll be the anemone killing the coral.
 
One skimmer is a hob. Its a cpr hob skimmer/refugium deal, and the other is a coralife 65 skimmer on a 10 gallon sump.
 
i have had a rbta for about 2 years , it growes to a size of a dinner plate and then splits a nice 4 inch or > clone. i have feed it once or twice over that time period. it splits about twice a year. for the most part i ignore it, also two clown fish host it. other they are pretty easy to take care off. the will kill corals if they get close, had to move a few of them out of its way.
 
One skimmer is a hob. Its a cpr hob skimmer/refugium deal, and the other is a coralife 65 skimmer on a 10 gallon sump.

Be careful on your anemone placement. Anywhere near that HOB skimmer and you will wake up to the worst smell ever...chopped up anemone!
 
Haha I'm not really concerned with theintake of the skimmer. Its closed off really well. I'm more concernedd with the hydor koralia pumps, but all powerhead and intake are really low powered, and I don't think ill have an issue as long as I keep my eye on it
 
Haha I'm not really concerned with theintake of the skimmer. Its closed off really well. I'm more concernedd with the hydor koralia pumps, but all powerhead and intake are really low powered, and I don't think ill have an issue as long as I keep my eye on it

I've never had a problem with my Koralias and my skimmer intake was closed fairly well too. Anemones can fit into practically any hole.
 

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