How long before SPS frags can be added?
- Thread starter FrankB1
- Start date
Once the cycle is "complete" then you would add a cleanup crew. Just remember the cycle is an ongoing thing, its not a step you check off a list. Whenever you add life to your tank, the bacteria population has to grow to accomodate it. So after a couple more weeks, you might add a couple of fish and maybe a simple frag like some shrooms or zoos. After those zoos and shrooms look happy and are growing (could take months), maybe you add some easy LPS like a frogspawn or candycane. Once your LPS are happy and growing (again could take months) then you'll think about adding an easy SPS like a monti. Eventually you'll work your way to Acros. While its tempting to try and shortcut this lengthy process, it WILL result in wasted money on dead frags.
I'm not so sure it's that simple Jacko, especially if you plan your tank to be SPS dominant from the start. If you're a new reefer, sure, you need to work your way up to SPS. But if you're an experienced reefer starting an sps tank, then that's a different story. IMO, once the cycle is complete (meaning, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates all 0), and after you've added the fish you want to add (because a new fish addition will likely raise your nitrates), and your other paramaters (namely, specific gravity, calcium, nitrates, magnesium, ph, and alkalinity) are all stable, then I think you are safe beginnning to stock sps frags, but you should definetly start with tank raised frags and avoid colonies, especially wild-capture ones, at all costs.
LOL. It's not that simple? So what I described is simple but "once your tank is set up then throw in some SPS" is not simple? I stand by my statement. If you try to shortcut the process by putting advanced frags in a young and unstable tank, you WILL end up with a dead frag collection.
If he literally wants an SPS-only tank, then he's more than welcome to later remove those shrooms or zoos or LPS and trade them or sell them for SPS frags. It beats having an empty tank for 6 months or wasting hundreds of dollars on corals that die.
If he literally wants an SPS-only tank, then he's more than welcome to later remove those shrooms or zoos or LPS and trade them or sell them for SPS frags. It beats having an empty tank for 6 months or wasting hundreds of dollars on corals that die.
rleechb
New member
I'm going to have to side with MSN711 on this one. I would advise against adding a bunch of acros into a tank that has just cycled, but it certainly wouldn't be the end of the world if you have some experience with sps already. Personally, I'm on my 2nd sps-dominated tank, and I had acros in the tank within a week after my cycle (went to the fish store, grew impatient, bought a bunch of acros). I had some tank raised stuff, some frags from wild colonies, and a full sized wild colony very quickly. After doing so, I realized that there is definitely some validity to the "3 month rule", because as soon as my tank hit the 3 month mark (about a week and half ago) things really started to take off.
If you know what you're doing, can provide a decent level of stability in your tank, then you should be able to add sps. This doesn't mean that your sps are going to be particularly colorful, grow especially quickly, or anything to that nature, but it certainly doesn't mean that you'll be met by some sort of reef-armageddon either; I haven't lost a single frag during my early stocking period (or after).
If you know what you're doing, can provide a decent level of stability in your tank, then you should be able to add sps. This doesn't mean that your sps are going to be particularly colorful, grow especially quickly, or anything to that nature, but it certainly doesn't mean that you'll be met by some sort of reef-armageddon either; I haven't lost a single frag during my early stocking period (or after).
seattlerob
New member
IMO, I would wait for the cycle to complete (i.e. ammonia, trates, trites all at 0, sg, pH, Ca & Alk all in check), then add any clean up crew/fish that you are planning on keeping (cuz as mentioned above, livestock will increase the bioload & mini-cycles we happen again).
After that point, I would wait until you see some coralline growth on your LR or back of tank about the size of a dime or some. The coralline growth should be a pretty good indication that Ca and Alk are stable, etc.
After that, I would start with easier to keep SPS, such as monti cap, maybe a poci, etc. Just go slow and maybe start with the less expensive. As mentioned above, I'd wait on the harder-to-keep SPS like acros until you've had the easier-to-keep SPS thriving for a while.
hth,
rob
After that point, I would wait until you see some coralline growth on your LR or back of tank about the size of a dime or some. The coralline growth should be a pretty good indication that Ca and Alk are stable, etc.
After that, I would start with easier to keep SPS, such as monti cap, maybe a poci, etc. Just go slow and maybe start with the less expensive. As mentioned above, I'd wait on the harder-to-keep SPS like acros until you've had the easier-to-keep SPS thriving for a while.
hth,
rob
Frankysreef
Active member
Go easy at first... LEARN, each tank is different... You need to understand the chemistry of the alkalinity and calcium in your tank...
It could easily take 6 mos before you get to that point, and each new tank has lots of ups and downs which will kill sensitive acropora..
Create a logbook, and start with cheap montipora, figure out the calc alk additive you will use...
Kalkwasser drip is cheap and easy. But eventually need to move to calc reactor.
Each fish, and animal that you add will upset the balance of alkalinity.. so you need to test test and test... and write the results down in a book so you can calculate the rate of change so you can dose accordingly.
I ran my first reef tank for years just dosing kalkwasser... easy and cheap... I run a calc reactor now, just because I dont have to mix the stuff anymore..
Acropora are all about stability, everything needs to be kept the same so water parameters do not fluctuate much...
It is hard to get the dosing and chemistry to the point of NON-FLUCTUATING.. this is where acropora will thrive.
Then there is the feeding issue, I use a very productive refugium that grows pods, mysis, and amphipods... egg sacs everywhere, and these are swept into the main display which the acropora will capture..
Then there is the lighting issue....they need to be saturated at least 8 hrs a day 250 mh minimum IMO or T5
The hardest part for me was the chemistry issue.... so good luck...
It could easily take 6 mos before you get to that point, and each new tank has lots of ups and downs which will kill sensitive acropora..
Create a logbook, and start with cheap montipora, figure out the calc alk additive you will use...
Kalkwasser drip is cheap and easy. But eventually need to move to calc reactor.
Each fish, and animal that you add will upset the balance of alkalinity.. so you need to test test and test... and write the results down in a book so you can calculate the rate of change so you can dose accordingly.
I ran my first reef tank for years just dosing kalkwasser... easy and cheap... I run a calc reactor now, just because I dont have to mix the stuff anymore..
Acropora are all about stability, everything needs to be kept the same so water parameters do not fluctuate much...
It is hard to get the dosing and chemistry to the point of NON-FLUCTUATING.. this is where acropora will thrive.
Then there is the feeding issue, I use a very productive refugium that grows pods, mysis, and amphipods... egg sacs everywhere, and these are swept into the main display which the acropora will capture..
Then there is the lighting issue....they need to be saturated at least 8 hrs a day 250 mh minimum IMO or T5
The hardest part for me was the chemistry issue.... so good luck...
Thanks for the replies/advice. As for the Alk/Ca, I was a chemist a while back but keeping it stable and in correct proportions will be a challenge in a small tank (20 gal). Lighting is 250W MH 14K Pheonix, Auto top off unit and a Tunze skimmer with approx 50x water turnover for circulation from a Sea Swirl and Seio 620 complete the major issues. Being only a 20 gallon tank I plan on using ESV two part Ca/Alk additive. I only plan on approx 6-8 frags that I hope I can grow into mature colonies.
I will definitely take it slow and then only start with an "easier" Monti once the initial cycle is complete and a few algae blooms have passed.
I will definitely take it slow and then only start with an "easier" Monti once the initial cycle is complete and a few algae blooms have passed.
