How long for bio pellets to take effect

Jeremy1988

New member
Hi there, I have a 90 gallon reef tank. Mixed with SPS, and LPS. I currently have 5 fish. A small tomini tang, tanaka pygmy wrasse, scissortail dartfish, blue assessor and pink skunk clownfish. About 3 weeks ago I purchased a BR 110 reef octopus bio pellet reactor with BRS brand pellets. The dosage they call for is basically 1 cup per 50 gallons of water. So my tank is 90 gallon total volume so I cut the dosage in half and went with only a 3rd of a cup total. So not much. I used a entire 10 ML bottle of Korallen Zucht Zeobak (bacteria booster) per BRS guidance. Then about 2 weeks later I put a few more drops from a new bottle directly into the reactor (per BRS advice). I had to take my UV sterilizer off line...and I did notice some cyano breaking out...however I took a tooth brush to it and the outbreak seems to have gone away...plus I was out of town for two weeks and my GF over feed my tank so nitrates climed up to 25...did some water changes and got them down to 7-10ish. Anyways I'm not noticing my nitrates move down any really...maybe not climb as fast...I know on the BRS website it says not to touch the reactors for the first month or 2...do you guys think I should add maybe a quarter of a cup of pellets to the reactor or leave it alone for a bit. I also run filter socks, and a K120 Ice cap skimmer, fyi. I also have the output line of the skimmer intake port next to it per the directions...yalls thoughts? O and flow is cranked up on the reactor and a very nice tumble...
 
I like NP Bio-Pellets, made in Holland, they come first with B.P, they move perfect, works better than any BP i ever try, i use most what you can find, those works great, may take 3-4 weeks, if your Nitrate go undetectable may need to balance, i dose Nitrogen Flourish http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9904 bacteria needs both Nitrate and PO4. The only Reactor i like is the one i make my self, i study long time to fully understand how BP works, my reactor have dual output to release the pressure inside the reactor, no need for powerful pump, i make the bottom cove to use gentle move, also to keep biomass around pellets, make sure, they move constant, avoid the grinding noise and move, make sure your pump never clog (use strainer) in my opinion works better than any Carbon source , Vodka, Vinegar, Vit. C etc. i do not use output to Protein Skimmer, i leave for my water filter to enjoy, www.dvh-import.com/portal-product/np-reducing-biopellets
 
Sometimes it it takes a while to get the bacteria in sufficient quantity to start the process in the reactor. I suggest a little vodka, vinegar or sugar to feed the bacteria. This has worked numerous times in the past to jump start the process. Use an appropriate amount directly into a fast moving section of the tank.
 
I would also suggest slowing the flow down. Friction isn't your friend here and you may slow the process from too vigorous tumbling action.
 
I like NP Bio-Pellets, made in Holland, they come first with B.P, they move perfect, works better than any BP i ever try, i use most what you can find, those works great, may take 3-4 weeks, if your Nitrate go undetectable may need to balance, i dose Nitrogen Flourish http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9904 bacteria needs both Nitrate and PO4. The only Reactor i like is the one i make my self, i study long time to fully understand how BP works, my reactor have dual output to release the pressure inside the reactor, no need for powerful pump, i make the bottom cove to use gentle move, also to keep biomass around pellets, make sure, they move constant, avoid the grinding noise and move, make sure your pump never clog (use strainer) in my opinion works better than any Carbon source , Vodka, Vinegar, Vit. C etc. i do not use output to Protein Skimmer, i leave for my water filter to enjoy, www.dvh-import.com/portal-product/np-reducing-biopellets

Hey thanks for the input, thats some pretty high speed stuff you got going on :). I'll take your advice for sure!!!
 
Sometimes it it takes a while to get the bacteria in sufficient quantity to start the process in the reactor. I suggest a little vodka, vinegar or sugar to feed the bacteria. This has worked numerous times in the past to jump start the process. Use an appropriate amount directly into a fast moving section of the tank.

Okay...I'll back her down...how much vodka you recommend me dose...I have plenty lol. Like a shot full???
 
I started using Dr. Tim's pellets about a year ago. It took several months to notice any effects, and the instructions emphasize going SLOW. You really haven't been using the pellets very long, I would wait patiently at least another month to notice any reductions. Make sure you are tumbling enough to avoid developing excess "mulm", but not so much that you're wearing down the pellets. This may take periodic adjustment of the reactor.
My experience is patience pays (as with most things in this hobby). I've seen great nitrate/phosphate reductions, and increases in growth and color. It took a while, and a lot of tinkering with the reactor. I had overflow issues with putting the output next to my skimmer. The Dr Tim instructions say it isn't necessary. The dosage seems to be less than other brands as well. I now run it into my socks, which then go to the skimmer.
 
If, and again "If"you use the right reactor and the right move, i don't see why you have to run the "output overflow next to the skimmer intake" Vodka, Vinegar, Sugar, Vit. C etc. contaminate all tank, i have few ways to measure the density of Bacteria, is NOT a secret the Bio-Pellets filter must hold most of Bacteria IN (Bio-mass), take the pump OFF for few hours (4 -6) then again you have to wait , just like start all over again. That the reason i mention , strainer is a MUST, make sure Chaeto or snails wont clog the intake. My clamps , Coco worms, grow very fast. Dr.Tim B.P are good , but melt fast and never ever move like NP B.P. i think is some about weight.
 
Shut off the reactor? In my experience the pellets need to keep moving to keep the "goo" from clogging things and the pellets from dying. I use a recirculating reactor to control the tumble and output separately. I keep the tumble constant, adjusting periodically. Now that the pellets have "matured", my output is turned down much less than when I first started to keep from over feeding the tank.
I add about 2oz of new pellets about every 2-3 months when it looks like they're getting low. I don't know if this is faster or not than another brand.
 
what i meant is to prof most of Bacteria leave inside the reactor, if you set the right way, pump go off, then you lost everything.
 
Hey guys...so I took some of yalls advice and backed down my reactor I think like 3 days ago...well today I noticed the water is rather cloudy. I assume it has something to do with the bio pellets. I read online at BRS that a lot of times this happens initally when starting the bio pellets...is it possible I just had them tumbling too much and there just now really in? My fish and corals look fine when I came home today to the haze.
 
a bacterial bloom is not uncommon. There is zero reason to have them tumble fast. When this product was first usd the person did not tumble them at all, they were in an open top reactor. The people making reactors decided they must tumble but even without a tumble they still work. The purpose of the tumble is to shake the bacterial mulm off and direct it to the skimmer, a vigorous tumble can be counter productive.
 
Could be a bloom, or possible excess mulm worked its way out into the tank. If either of these it will pass, but a water change would help, as in most cases in this hobby. I think of water changes just like CTRL-ALT-DEL for older windows platforms.
Even when things are running well I find it necessary to clean my reactor from time to time, as mulm will build up on the internal strainer, pump, and plumbing. When cleaning, I will empty the pellets into another container and flush them with some tank water to rid excess mulm. Using RO water would probably kill the bacteria.
Again, in my experiences using the pellets it took time, but eventually I'm getting very good results.
 
Your cloudy water could be a algae bloom...too many bio pellets too soon. Or you dose to muck bacteria, stop add. any bacteria, your water flow true reactor may be to fast, make sure your BP move very gent , Aggressive move is NOT good to the BP , It will get better, let nature run its course, your O2 levels will lower with the bloom, correct the flow and do some water change.
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Your cloudy water could be a algae bloom...too many bio pellets too soon. Or you dose to muck bacteria, stop add. any bacteria, your water flow true reactor may be to fast, make sure your BP move very gent , Aggressive move is NOT good to the BP , It will get better, let nature run its course, your O2 levels will lower with the bloom, correct the flow and do some water change.
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Hey so yeah I did a water change. Honestly the only reason I had a high tumble was bc BRS recommended me too...however that was on there BRS reactor at the time I was asking questions. I think that reactor they make isn't that good...I read a lot of mixed reviews and I think you really need high flow to get it going right maybe idk. I backed it down though and I think everything will be fine :). I haven't added pellets either. Thanks everyone for your input, helped out a lot, and helped me to not over react.
 
If you want to read how it all got started, here is the original thread. I started using them late Spring of 2010, I have done just about everything imaginable in using them. Fast tumble, slow tumble and no tumble they worked the same the only difference is how fast they were used. The faster the flow, the sooner you will be replacing them. This is a long read, but an invaluable one.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1694529
 
1991 i got one German filter, in that time my Nitrate was 60-80 ppm, i was shock about that filter, was using some plastic balls , about 1" diam. i think have same PHA from those today, call Danny balls, never find in market, i decide to study how work, i still have the reactor (some parts) water go IN by gravity (1/4 hose) then OUT to swamp, i got one floating switch connect to one pump to prevent overflow on swamp, reactor was full of Bio Balls and some 20-30 Danny balls, one small pump mix the water inside the reactor top to bottom i think they give up in that design because accumulate Detritus in time, they state in that time , if rotten egg smell, mean to much Bacteria in, low flow, less water feed the reactor, Bacteria start to die, Possibly more of a concern for hydrogen sulfide production, to much water flow end up in algae bloom. So today ,what you need is just adjust the water pump to keep moving the BP gentle, to keep the bio mass inside the reactor and you good. I build list 10 BP reactors, main point , you need dual Output , release some restriction (pressure) inside the reactor, bottom have to be cove , help the Pellets to move a way more easy, do not disturb the bio mass , no powerful pump need, i set up my BP reactor to 90 Gal. refuge.
 
For what's it's worth, got my reactor from Aqualund over a year ago. Good design and build quality, works even better with one very small mod I've discovered.
 
Hey guys...a long update...so it's been a few months now...still using bio pellets. Well I'm having a brown hair alage problem. I spoke with some from BRS over the phone. I had a lengthy and detailed conversation with them. He told me to stay away from GFO for now and to keep with the bio pellets...he said it's normal for pellets to take this long to worj??? I'm just at a lost...i feed light etc...i'm just not sure why I'm having this issue....i know it's a double negative...but when I test for phosphates I get barely over zero...when I ran GFO originally I ha zero algae. I wanted to run a gfo reactor again with the pellets but he told me to hold off...
 
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