How much "PAR" do SPS corals need?

Doubledown

Active member
I realize this is a very open ended question, but how much of a "PAR" level is required for SPS corals to thrive in a home aquarium. Is the higher the PAR the better? If so, then why doesn't everyone run the same bulbs and ballasts to generate the most PAR.

I ask because I want to switch to a bulb that will appear more blue when fully fired. I read Sanjay's comparisons and find that the PAR values for my ballasts and different bulbs range anywhere from 147 to 42 with kelvin ratings from 10K - 20K.

How do you choose then? If I want a bluer looking bulb and like the Ushio/BLV/Geisemann bulbs do I just pick one and hope for the best? In the past my corals have grown and colored fairly well ( I know there is much more to this than just light) under 12k lamps that register about 80 PAR. How will they do under a bulb with only 58 PAR?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Double, that question is a bit hard to answer, and really is specific to your tank, and specific corals you keep. SPS is much to broad of a term to give a general suggestion. That being said, you may actually find that color is better with lower par bulbs pending how long your photoperiod is.

Im finding with higher PAR setups, the photoperiod has to be reduced quite a bit to avoid bleaching...you may be able to run a fairly long photoperiod with the lower par bulbs and still keep a nice rich color on your corals. My suggestion would be pick the bulb you like the most and adjust the photoperiod and or height of the bulbs to compensate if need be.
 
get a quantum meter... take a reading at the bottom of the tank... if you can hit ~100umol/m/s2 down there (this is with reflector)... then you can keep "easier" acros on the bottom and high light acros pretty much anywhere else in the tank

i was talking to sanj once and he said a reading of 90-100umol right off the bulb (no reflector) was about the lowest he would go for an acro tank (dont quote me on that... its been a while)
 
I realize this is a very open ended question, but how much of a "PAR" level is required for SPS corals to thrive in a home aquarium.

Phew, so we're swinging for the fences today eh? Unfortunately, this is really an impossible question to answer. The needs of different corals and different zooxanthellae (remember, it's really the zoox. that are most directly affected by varied light intensity, though the corals end up being affected by the health of the zoox.). Asking what is required in terms of intensity for a coral to do well is a bit like asking how big big a tank a saltwater fish needs. A little Neon goby would do fine in a 10 gal tank and be happy forever. A Sohal tang wouldn't even fit in a 10 gal tank as an adult. A Sohal might be content in a 300 gal tank though, but a Neon goby would be content in that 300 gal tank too.

With sufficient food corals can be maintained indefinitely in the dark. That is, no light is required if the animals are fed heavily. Of course, this isn't a realistic situation for out in the world or in a reef tank. Corals of the same species and with the same or different zoox. can and do adapt to a wide range of light intensities in nature and captivity though. You might find the same coral in 1 m of water in uber-bright light and at 30 m in very dim light and it is growing and doing ok in both locations.

Coral calcification and photosynthesis are both saturated from about 20 m depth up to close to the surface on most reefs. Over this depth range you might see a difference in max. intensity of as little as 250 - 300 PAR units up to 1000 - 1800 PAR units. That is a broad spawn, but due to the adaptive nature of the corals and zoox. they are able to do fine over this range. Below about 20 m on most reefs and the rate of calcification tends to start dropping. Typically the max. intensity is < 300 PAR units below ~ 20 m (this all assumes nice clear water--the zonation is moved higher if the water is turbid). You'll still find a lot of the same corals on the deeper parts of the reef, but some grow a bit slower while others just increase their predatory activity and actually maintain a similar growth rate despite lower photosynthesis. Now, the corals are not receiving 12 hrs a day at the max. intensity. On a really clear day (few clouds) they get ~ 4 hrs a day of intense light, another 4 - 6 hrs a day of intermediate intensity and ~ 2 hrs of dimmer light. If there are clouds (which there usually are, then those hours are reduced. In a shallow area the light intensity at noon might be 800 PAR units only to drop down to 200 units as a cloud passes and then jump back up to 800 again. The light field in nature is highly variable, especially in shallow water.

Is the higher the PAR the better?

No, and assuming that brighter light is inherently better can and does get folks into 'hot water' so to speak. Photosynthesis is a very energetic process. A lot of energy is being captured and transferred to electrical potential in the cells and eventually chemical potential energy as carbon is fixed. If something happens to disrupt the flow of energy to C-fixation, or if there is more light absorbed than can be adequately quenched photochemically (i.e., if the energy absorbing system--photosystem II can't dump energy fast enough) then the excess energy can cause really nasty damage to the cell. Think of a car overheating... When light intensity becomes high enough to significantly impede photosynthesis we say that the organism is experiencing photoinhibition. Corals in shallow water normally do experience chronic photoinhibition. For a few hours a day, in the shallowest water, the zoox. take a beating from the sun. As long as they are adapted to this regime and the damage isn't too bad they recover and continue growing. Many of these corals in shallower water DO grow faster and are generally in better condition at intermediate depth where they do not experience chronic photoinibition. Now, the processes that cause photoinhibition are always happening no matter what level of light there is, but at lower levels of light the damage is so minimal that photosynthesis is not impeded. At very high light levels there is so much photodamage that it overwhelms the repair systems.

The intensity necessary to induce significant photoinhibition varies dramatically from coral to coral due to inherent differences in the zoox/coral, due to adaptation (e.g., previous light regimes), and due to a variety of environmental conditions (temp, UV, water flow, etc.). Corals adapted to really high light generally aren't significantly photoinhibited until you start talking intensities of 1000 PAR units or so. Corals adapted to dimmer light or with zoox. that are more tolerant of dim light might be significantly harmed by light intensities of only 300 - 500 PAR units. The same coral in stagnant water might be fried with 400 PAR units but is fine up to 1200 PAR units with strong flow... It's all depends on so many factors generalizations really can't be drawn.

Now, at lower light levels more light definitely can increase calcification/photosynthesis. A coral only getting 50 PAR units will probably calcify faster if given 100 or 150 PAR units, though it depends on other factors as well. Many corals are good at switching between more autotrophy (photosynthesis) vs. more hetertrophy (prey capture) depending on what's available while some other corals are not very good at this. A Goniastrea growing in shallow, clear water will rely heavily on light and not very much on capturing prey while the same coral in deeper or more turbid water will capture more prey since less light is available and end up with about the same growth rate either way. A Porites will calcify quickly with lots of light and slowly with less light and probably won't change its prey capture efforts much either way.

Having said all of this, for most corals, in the neighborhood of 200 - 300 umol photons / m2 / s for 10 or 12 hrs a day is going to be pretty good. For corals that will take higher lighting, 400 - 500 umol photons / m2 / s is probably fine, provided flow is strong. For coral that prefer lower lighting, 50 - 150 umol photons / m2 / s is probably more preferable. With other factors, such as feeding, taken into account most corals will do fine at or below the 'preferred' intensity range.

cj
 
So how do I choose which bulb is right for me and the corals thriving (hopefully) in my captive system? Is it solely based on what I feel looks the best?

I switched from Reeflux 12K to Geisemann 14.5K Coral bulbs. They new bulbs are not only brighter to look at, but make the tank much "whiter" in appearance. I prefer the bluer look. Do I now switch in a 20K bulb for the blue appearance that I am looking for and pay no attention to the PAR ratings that Sanjay has already verified? Will corals adapt to what ever bulb we choose to place over them to meet their needs and therefor the PAR values are of little consequence?

Thank you all for your responses.
 
No, light intensity definitely matters. Given ridiculous amounts of food light intensity may not matter for a lot of corals (they are already getting enough from prey). For most corals either in nature or in tanks, the light intensity is going to strongly affect their rate of calcification, though they definitely are adaptable over a range. Using higher K bulbs typically gets you a relatively low light intensity. This may be below saturation for the corals and hence below the range to which they can adapt without a change in calcification.

If you can, use a light meter to take measurments of light intensity. If that isn't feasible you can use Sanjay's work as a rough guide for the sorts of intensity to expect (quality reflectors will substantially increase light intensity in the tank, so take that into account). For most corals a light intensity in the neighborhood of 200 - 300 umol photons/m2/s is going to be pretty ideal. Some will take brighter light and do well with it. Some will prefer slightly dimmer light. If you're looking at a bulb that will only produce 58 umol photons/m2/s on the corals, you're going to be contending with fairly low intensity light. Most corals can survive in that, but growth will be substantially lower than in somewhat stronger light. I mean, you could get that intensity with NO fluorescent bulbs pretty easily--that isn't a heck of a lot of light.

Chris
 
I mean how does a coral handle a very intense light for a short duration, VS a less intense light for a longer duration. So my question essentially is, if you are overlighting your corals, are you better off reducing the intensity, via raising the lights, using a glass shield or screen or other blocking mechanism, OR will lowering the photoperiod have a similar effect?
 
Yes I am running a radion g1 and used a par meter yesterday for the first time. I was taken back as I was getting 80 par readings 17" deep In the tank. After lowering the fixture to 5 1/2 " above water line and changing the intensity I was able to get it to 150. At 12" I now am getting 320 at it's highest peak of the day around 4 pm. I would highly suggest anyone with LEDs must have a par meter to check there lighting.
Thanks again
Michael
 
I will add in what I have found, but don't take this is a scientific study or anything...

Using a 6-bulb x 54w ATI sunpower over a 75 gallon, I get 180-200 PAR on the sandbed, and about 500 PAR right under the water surface. Using a quantum meter. The tank is all sps, ranging from on the sandbed to a few inches under the water. All sps are receiving about 180-400 PAR. The ones in closer to 200 PAR have more deep color. Some of the SPS up top closer to 400 PAR are a little pale, and when I would move a frag lower it would deepen in color. This is all acropora for the most part. My birdsnest do best in 100 PAR or less, while montipora seem about the same.

Something that I personally believe is very important, and special about T5s, is their ability to bounce light around the tank when your sandbed is clean and white. When turning my PAR sensor upside down and about 2" above the sandbed, it is still registering about 50-60 PAR. This means my sps are all receiving light from the bottom side as well. Despite the size of some of my corals, I do not ever have the base die back due to lack of light, like Ive seen in some halide/LED tanks. Not in any way a bash at LED/Halide (I even use these on other tanks), but just my observation.

Granted, this is MY tank only, I can't say that this will go for everyone since there are seemingly infinite variables at play in a reef system like this. But maybe this info will be useful.
 
200 par enough for sps??

200 par enough for sps??

thanks for your help
i have couple spa but they are getting brown ??
what should i do?

150 in sand bed and 200 where the coral is.
 
thanks for your help
i have couple spa but they are getting brown ??
what should i do?

150 in sand bed and 200 where the coral is.
What are your nutrient numbers? Sounds like high nutrients or an upset coral. Sps do not like change. A browned out acro can take.months to color back up depending on a lot of things. 200 par may be ideal for that particular piece. Or if it's a hardy stag it may like 350 range. But 200 usually won't make it brown out.
 
i think that 150 is the lower limit for acros and 500 is the higher...over coral suffer and die.
 

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