How to mix the water correctly

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Hibees

In Memoriam
Hi,
I have heard varying opinions on mixing to obtain the optimum results. My question is what is your preffered method.

For some time I have been producing my RO/DI and letting it aerate for about 24-48 hours with a powerhead on the surface, then I add the salt (ok brand dependant but I use reef crystals).

I let this aerate for 24 hours and then heat the water to about 78f. Again I leave the water aerating for a further 24 hours.

Total time for mix is about 4 days, does anyone do it differently ?
What is the best way ?

Cheers

Mike
 
I can say thats a waste of time, just get your water, use kent salt because its the best, and make sure its not too freezing
 
I mix my water about the same way you do it and it has worked well so far. From what I've read fresh RO water is depleted of oxygen and it is better to age the water (so to speak). I also heard a speaker talk about how freshly mixed salt water can be a little caustic (sp?) so it is good to age the water after mixing in the salt as well. On top of that I'm sure it is better to have the newly added water close to or at the same temp as the tank water; less stress on your fish/corals.
 
Timmy,

Ok, perhaps thats fine for your setup but when you consider the elements that require monitoring (mag, salinity, calcium, PH etc) is just chucking the salt in (however good you think it is) really the best approach. What I was looking for was a definite and calculated response to the question. Dont mean to play your response down in any way but just felt it was negative.

Cheers

Mike
 
OK for starters dont listen to TIMMY BOY!!!! You do want to have your water mix for at least 24 hours with a powerhead and heater. The object is to try to match your water change water to the tank water. I would continue to do what you are doing. I have 2 33 gallon containers one with just Ro water and the other with my salt mix with my poerhead heater and airline. Just make sure you test your new water for stuff like phosphates. Good luck to you BILL
 
lvpd186,

Ok we're getting somewhere then......its not just about the depletion of oxygen though, ro/di strips just about all the trace elements out of the water, PH plummits (just not accurately readable to all intents and purposes) and other elements are surely supplemented by the salt used.

RBU1 - lol, already did discard that response, do you suggest heating the water before adding the salt then ? I always try to match PH, salinity and temp to the current main display tank but mag, calcium etc are a bit of a lottery to be honest.. I always test every 3 or 4 batches for phos and nitrate but the inline TDS helps. How much faith do you put in these ?


Cheers

Mike
 
Ok well I guess if you have the time go ahead and do it that way but im not being negative, I also sevice about 4 tank a day for the last 7 months so I know a thing or two about water calculations and the chemistry of it, I have never had one fish die or coral in my tank since it has been set up (8 months ago) so yes I do think its a waste of time but it sounds like you have time to waste, I on the other hand dont so I was just trying to help you out
 
I never really gave to much thought in heating the water before adding the salt. I would say that does not matter. I don't use an inline TDS meter I have one of those hand held one's. I test it periodically to my tap water to make sure it is working properly. I think what you are doing is perfect. Timmy I would not let you service my Quarentine tank with that philosophy!!!!
 
Ok Timmy, personally I wouldnt be putting corals in a tank after only 8 months maturation, probably ok for a FO system but the chemistry requiremnents of a reef system are far more complex. I just dont want to be putting water into the display tank via a sump that is not as good a quality or lacking in any area of chemisty requirement - thats the reason for my post. If were serious about this hobby and understand the requirement to change the water periodically, it makes sense to ensure that the parameters that are added are as good, if not better than the water we are changing out...... just my opinion. Im sure that your systems flourish - but it obvioulsy is dependant on major factors like your calcium requirements, type of corals (SPS, LPS etc) and any inverts you may have. Fish will probaly quite happily survive in non idealitic circumstances given time and acclimatisation, corals on the other hand will deteriorate over time if the environment is not near or equivalent to their natural habitat. Last point is that I would never consider asking questions about anything to do with the beautiful creatures we attempt to keep a waste of time, that includes the water parameters for them.

Cheers

Mike
 
fair enough, Im just used to quick and easy because ive serviced so many tanks, I love my tank and everything is thriving, like I said if you have the time than do it the way you think is best
 
Timmy, theres no need for personal comments like that, the forum is designed for people who want to learn not be slated by inappropriate behaviour like yours.

RBU1

Thanks, I think that the salt will be dissolved quicker if the water is heated but I am really not sure if all the essential parts will be maintained through this. Its really a matter of opinion I guess, test whilst adding it when cold/aerated against heated/aerated and Im sure that the salt itself is also a factor....... appreciate your responses thought and apologise for the "child hijack with the 5 gal nano".

Cheers
Mike
 
Just to weigh in. Hibees, Think you are on the right track. Like everything in this hobby, you can get carried away.

I try and match as many things as I can (Temp., PH, salinity, etc.). I also try and aerate the RO/DI water for a day or so, then at least a few hours w/salt. Seems to work pretty well all fish & corals are smilin.

Good Luck!
 
Mike,

When I started researching info on how to properly set up and maintain a reef system everything seemed to support the way you are doing your water changes (the same reason I do mine that way). The info you posted about RO water lacking nutients is on the spot. RO water is "dead" water and I think it makes all the sense in the world to prepare it properly before dumping it in a tank filled with inhabitants (very expensive ones at that.) As for extra time, I dont think it takes any real time to do water changes this way. I have a system where the same day I finish a water change I start the water for the next change.
 
LOL No problem I try to help when I can. I am far from an expert. My tank will be 2 years old in June and so far so good. I have this darn algae that recently started that I can not put my finger on. I have done all kinds of tests. There is only 2 things I can think my nitrates seem to be around 10ppm and I tested my Tropic Marin Pro reef salt and got a slight phosphate reading. Not sure if the reading is enough but at this point I have no idea. I think Iam going to try this product Algone

Take care BILL
 
RBU1, seems I took too long with my last post and missed yours but appreciate the comments......minus spelling mistakes, it is 02:15 here!!!!!

Cheers

Mike
 
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