How to ?

toky916

New member
So working on a friends tank and would like to know how most of you connect reactor to a gate valve ? In this case should I get slip to slip or slip to threaded ?

I've seen it on toofrekensweet build but looks like he has not been online for a while tho.

And what part do I need to get to connect to the gate valve ?
 
Most of us build manifolds and use John guest fittings for reactors and add ons if we are plumbing them to our main return. If you are running them off there own pump you can use a small ball valve. I haven't seen many people use true gate valves to control reactors. Can you give a little more information on the gate valve and reactors you are planning on using.

Most gate valves are threaded and if your going to hard line it after the gate valve you do need to get the proper male NPT to Slip in the size you need. Cheap at the HD.
 
For future reference I feel the end all is to use true union ball valves. They make changing and adjusting things a breeze.
 
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Similar to
This but running TLF 150 and the the next reef mr1.
 
You need a gate valve that is at least threaded on the side where the John Guest valve will go since i don't believe they make slip JG valves. The other side can be either slip/threaded, it just depends on what you're comfortable using. Then the appropriate size JG valve. It looks like that tank is using a 1/2 JG connection. If i remember, he painted the PVC red.
 
I would recommend using a slip x slip and use glue. Less can go wrong unless your one that likes to rearrange thinks often. threaded your going to have to use pipe dope or tape so you might as well use glue.
 
I would recommend using a slip x slip and use glue. Less can go wrong unless your one that likes to rearrange thinks often. threaded your going to have to use pipe dope or tape so you might as well use glue.

I would argue the opposite. I used all threaded fittings on my manifold with Teflon tape, and there is some salt creep at the joints. In less than a year I had to change a bad valve.

The referenced thread turned out really nice, but I think somewhere in that thread he acknowledged that he would use threaded fittings with the chance to do it over.

I favor maintenance friendly over aesthetics when putting this stuff together.

Good luck
 
I made my manifold with 3 valves but before and after the fact I have threaded unions so if anything fails I replace the whole manifold. Tape is a terrible idea for plastics. It makes the threads bigger than the opening causing pressure. No bueno if your at work and spring a leak. To each their own but for 15 dollars worth of valves over a few years time I'd replace them all at that point.
 
I'm tagging along since I'll be setting my plumbing up exactly the same with at least two reactors.

I actually have a question regarding the picture above. I notice that the check valve is below the reactor valves. Wouldn't that allow water to drain down through the reactors and bypass the check valve?

I know we should never rely completely on check valves, but I'm using one in my system and want to make sure it's not totally useless. Should I put it between the returns and the reactors? And does it matter if the check valve is mounted horizontally or vertically?

What are you guys using to reduce from the reactor gate valves to the JG connections? My return manifold will be 1" so I'll need to reduce down.

I was originally thinking about just one 1" gate valve to a manifold which would have smaller valves for each reactor. Or does it make more sense to build like the above pic with a gate valve off the main return for each reactor?
 
Where can I locally find JG fittings ? For that tube size I used slipxslip gate valves I guess I'll buy the treaded adaptor
So just glue a spigot x Female threaded reducing slip bushing into valve. Parts can be found on bulk reef supplyhttp://www.bulkreefsupply.com/schedu...le-thread.html
Sound right ?
 
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