Howto: Use a Linksys Router as Wireless Reef Controller - WRRC

I also got the x10 controller working on my box. I'm using wish (x10dev) with a Powerlinc II serial connected via USB with a serial-USB converter I picked up off ebay. The only bummer is that Ubuntu doesn't play as x10dev expects, so every time I restart I have to re-make/install to get the devices to reappear. Not a huge deal, it takes only seconds, and I'll add it to a startup script. Other than that so far x10 commands are very easy to send/monitor. Another good step forward.
 
I plan on soldering directly to the pins, and then using heatshrink to make little waterproof probes. I am still looking for suitable wire...
 
I thought about using heatshrink, but I couldn't guarantee that I could get a water proof seal. I opted to do the epoxy route because then I could also coat the wires and then not have to worry about finding "suitable wire" as you said. Anything constantly submerged is covered in epoxy and good to go. It's not exactly pretty, but should be less apt to leech anything than a pretty looking heatshrink solution IMO. It's in my sump, so looks matter about 0.001% :)
 
For the sump I would suggest using a piece of rigid small diameter PVC (liek 1/2") the depth of the sump. Place the sensor in the end and burry it in a bit of epoxy. Fill the tube with epoxy or other glue from the other end to encapsulate the wires and add weight...

You can then fashion a small clamp to hold it in place at the edge of the sump. It will not float away or leave a wire to get tangled and brittle.

Bean
 
Well, I was working on the 1-wire stuff this weekend and got a temp probe in my sump to monitor the water temp. Even though it looks like an "epoxy monster" it seems to work great so far. :)

I also converted my pH probe amplifier to a full-fledged 1-wire ready pH sensor. It runs off the 5V supply from the bus, so I need to etch a power injector to add power to my bus, but once I do that it's ready to put into use. I bench-tested it and fit all the guts nicely into the little housing so all you have to do is plug it into the net.

It was a matter of cross-referencing all the right pins and soldering them together. I added a 22uf capacitor to the amplifier's power bus to smooth any power drops, and also a 1uf Cap across the 1-wire AD bus & ground for the same reason. I found I got slightly more consistent readings that way. My accuracy with this puppy is to the hundredth (though I get more digits I don't trust them as they are merely "noise").

Here's a pic:
ow_ph_wired_up.jpg



I was also doing some PERL scripting and have a script that will pull the sensors from my database, grab their values, and store said values back into the database. Then you can do trend, etc from there as you like.

I'm still tweaking the database schema, but you should be able to assign a sensor a roll (sump temp, pH, orp, hood temp, etc) and then at some later time change out that physical sensor without having to go change the script code. Just re-assign that role to a different (or new) sensor and it should work seamlessly. I'll post the database schema sometime here...
 
NICE! I should rip apart my Vernier and do the same thing :) Thanks for the info!

I found a flow meter in the US that's all plastic, and can handle up to about 30 gpm with a digital counter output. Hope to hook it up to one of the 1wire counters to keep track of flow. If it works out, will be <$100 for the whole thing. Just need to wait for it to come into stock :(

-Mike
 
HI bigRed,
who makes these ph amplifiers ?

My 1wire update
After using the temp and A/D 1wire devices for a year now I am currently testing some 1wire outputs (DS2405) for reliability. Been continually pulsing two outputs (OFF 2 sec / ON 5 sec) now for 1 week and it hasn't skipped a beat. I will retrofit the futurlec 4 x relay board so it can take the DS2405 directly. This board is opto isolated with relay contacts and is only US13.00...I got the relay board and the opto input board.

http://www.futurlec.com/Opto_Relay_4.shtml
http://www.futurlec.com/DC_Opto_Input_4.shtml

cheers rob
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9511296#post9511296 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bad inferno
HI bigRed,
who makes these ph amplifiers ?

My 1wire update
After using the temp and A/D 1wire devices for a year now I am currently testing some 1wire outputs (DS2405) for reliability. Been continually pulsing two outputs (OFF 2 sec / ON 5 sec) now for 1 week and it hasn't skipped a beat. I will retrofit the futurlec 4 x relay board so it can take the DS2405 directly. This board is opto isolated with relay contacts and is only US13.00...I got the relay board and the opto input board.

http://www.futurlec.com/Opto_Relay_4.shtml
http://www.futurlec.com/DC_Opto_Input_4.shtml

cheers rob


The amp is made by Vernier , and they run $40. You can pick one up here for $40 + ~$6 S/H: http://www.schoolmart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=226

Can you document and share how you retrofit the futurlec relay boards? I have some DC powered stuff that I'll need to control so I'm very interested in that. Hobby-boards.com has their 4 relay board but they want $45 each so for $13 and some parts, that futurlec relay board looks mighty attractive! Maybe a couple pics and a short writeup on what you changed? :)
Originally posted by mloebl

I found a flow meter in the US that's all plastic, and can handle up to about 30 gpm with a digital counter output. Hope to hook it up to one of the 1wire counters to keep track of flow. If it works out, will be <$100 for the whole thing. Just need to wait for it to come into stock

Hey mloebl - You want to share the maker & model #, etc of your flowmeter?
 
Hi aka_BigRed,

Wasn't going to post it for sure until I knew definitely it would work (just in case ;)), but it is American Meter C700 Polymer 3/4"-9" LL 100% polymer version except for the register itself. There is an addon unit for it that adds a digital counter to it, as well as an optional 3/4" MPT connection kit for it. I ordered it from http://submetersystems.com , however I had to email the guy directly to get the right connection kit as the site doesn't have the MPT plastic kit on it. They claim no metal comes in contact at all to the water, and it should be able to keep up with my ~600gph I estimate my pump is at. It can do sustained around 15-20gpm with peaks around 30gpm without a problem. He wasn't 100% sure it was in stock, so it may take a couple weeks before I get it before I know how well it will/won't work.

Can you post a close up pic of your modified Vernier? I'd like to do the same thing to mine.

Thanks!

-Mike
 
I'm a little curious how much head something like that would add to the pump and restrict flow. It might be pretty substantial.... just a thought w/out looking at a spec sheet or anything.

I'll try to take a closer pic tonight, but a wiring diagram/mapping would probably be better. It's kind of a hack job so all my wires are soldered then taped or shrink-wrapped. It's really just a matter of matching the right color wires together and soldering in the capacitors which would be pretty hard to discern from a pic of mine.

For my ORP one I hope to etch a board so it looks a little more professional, but I was trying to get this one working as a semi-prototype then improve (if needed) when etching the board for the other one.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9511296#post9511296 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bad inferno

After using the temp and A/D 1wire devices for a year now I am currently testing some 1wire outputs (DS2405) for reliability. Been continually pulsing two outputs (OFF 2 sec / ON 5 sec) now for 1 week and it hasn't skipped a beat.

I've been switching DS2409's (MicroLAN Coupler) every 5 seconds for the past 10 months or so. I have a multi-segment 1-wire bus, so I switch between legs of the network based on where the device is. I don't think you'd have any reliability issues. I also poll the sensors for their current state, so if the switches aren't in the intended state, it will get switched next time it's scanned.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9512378#post9512378 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aka_BigRed
I'm a little curious how much head something like that would add to the pump and restrict flow. It might be pretty substantial.... just a thought w/out looking at a spec sheet or anything.

I'll try to take a closer pic tonight, but a wiring diagram/mapping would probably be better. It's kind of a hack job so all my wires are soldered then taped or shrink-wrapped. It's really just a matter of matching the right color wires together and soldering in the capacitors which would be pretty hard to discern from a pic of mine.

Supposedly they are very low-restrictive, but figured worse case I clean it out, and can monitor my house water usage with it, hehe

Basic schematic may help too, thanks!

-Mike
 
I have a quick general question for you other guys running 1-wire devices: Do you supply 5v Regulated & 12v+ Unregulated on your network as seems to be standard?


OW_rj45_diagram.jpg


I ask because my pH amplifier mod depends on line provided reg 5V to work. If you do supply voltage, do you know roughly how much current you pull from those lines with all your devices?

(image source changed)
 
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I only use the 5VDC to power my 1 wire devices and any opto isolators...You could run into resistance issues (voltage drop)drawing too much current if you have extended the 1 wire bus with standard ethernet cable. I also think that changes in the 5VDC supply may effect the A/D 1wire devices. I just use the 5VDC directly from my USB connection. I'm running on a NSLU2.

rob
 
If you are concerned (it should not be a problem) why not send 24V unreg down the line and build a small recifier/vreg (they come in single 4 pin packages now) into the probe interface. In that way you will not run into current issues.

Bean
 
Bean, That's probably what I'll do long term. I've got an old PC power supply that will be wired up to the bus. I get 5v and 12v both nicely regulated and more than enough to go around.

I'm fuse protecting it so that it won't put enough to melt the wires if something shorts. I was planning to supply most of the simple (low draw) sensors from the bus lines, and then any relay boards, LCD's, etc would have their own external power supply.

BTW, what is the max rated amperage of CAT5e cable? Anyone know?
 
It depends on the gauge of the wire and the length of the run.

Remember CAT5e and Cat6 come in various guages. Also remember that the because the pairs are twisted, the actual wire length is abotu 30% more than the cable length.

48V would be even better (POE is 48V).

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

You will notice how conservative those numbers are if you look at #12 and #14 copper. If you use plenum cable (teflon) then the ampacity will be somewhat higher.

So in an nutshell for 22AWG you can get between .6 amps and 3 amps depending on the table you look at and the length you wish to use. Voltage drop (on both the high volt and 5v bus can be significant).
 
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