Huge SPS shipment at REEFS EDGE

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=#post target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jeffbrig
Moving pretty quickly too. I stopped in at lunch and took home 3 nice pieces.
nice:thumbsup:
 
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double post, does anyone know why delete check off box never deletes the double post? just checking
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=#post target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by db_triggerfish
i am learning about selecting a healthy sps, that brown color is that stress? Does it go away? Thanks
healthy table blue tips
 
trigger, here's a very similar table that's been in my tank close to a year now. Blue around the edges, tan in the center.

blue_edge_table_7_21_07.jpg


Not every coral is necessarily colorful, regardless of tank conditions. The bright colors we typically covet in the hobby are somewhat unusual in the wild. Here's a shot I took on a Maui reef, the average coral is tan or mustard colored:

butterflies.jpg




The first thing to check for is polyp extension, it indicates that the coral is healthy and acclimated to the tank it's in. An overly stressed coral may never show polyps. Look for any major damage (bag scuffs on one or two branches are no big deal). Avoid anything that's showing tissue loss, or any signs of pests - bare splotches, tiny red dots, etc. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=#post target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jeffbrig
trigger, here's a very similar table that's been in my tank close to a year now. Blue around the edges, tan in the center.

blue_edge_table_7_21_07.jpg


Not every coral is necessarily colorful, regardless of tank conditions. The bright colors we typically covet in the hobby are somewhat unusual in the wild. Here's a shot I took on a Maui reef, the average coral is tan or mustard colored:

butterflies.jpg




The first thing to check for is polyp extension, it indicates that the coral is healthy and acclimated to the tank it's in. An overly stressed coral may never show polyps. Look for any major damage (bag scuffs on one or two branches are no big deal). Avoid anything that's showing tissue loss, or any signs of pests - bare splotches, tiny red dots, etc. :D
cmon cmon where r ur pics!
 
I'm just about to put the corals in the tank (after interceptor, FWE, iodine, etc.) ....I'll try to snap a few before I turn the lights out!
 
Jeff, could you elaborate on your process for coral introduction? I think I remember seeing a thread on this a while back in this forum, but I didn't save the information. I should be putting water in my tank in the next couple of weeks...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10415299#post10415299 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Beaut
Saw that little table it was sweet, one of the pieces i got.
july1707041.jpg

Nice! I think I remember seeing that one. Was it the one marked "SOLD" when I was there at lunchtime?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10415380#post10415380 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FleeVT
Jeff, could you elaborate on your process for coral introduction? I think I remember seeing a thread on this a while back in this forum, but I didn't save the information. I should be putting water in my tank in the next couple of weeks...

I have interceptor "small dog" tablets, where one table would treat 38g of water at recommended in-tank dosage. I use 1/2 of these pills, in 2 or 3 g of water in a bucket, with a small powehead for heat/circulation. After a minimum of 6 hours, I add 3 drops of Flatworm Exit to the same water. I let that sit another 30min to an hour. Then I take out some of the water in a smaller container, and add iodine. I have Seachem Reef Dip, but I'll use TMPCC when this runs out. ~10 minutes in the iodine dip, and they're almost ready to go in. I also make it a point to scrub the base of each coral with a veggie scrubber, in the hopes of dislodging algae or any other hitchhiker I might want to keep out. One last rinse in clean tank water makes sure none of the chemicals make it into the display.

You'd be surprised the junk that you find in your containers after doing all of this - worms, pods, etc.

I'm probably a little overboard, but better safe than sorry in my book. I'm going to start dipping with fluke tabs, they're supposed to help dislodge AEFWs, so you can tell if your corals are infected before adding them. (Ask Rogger for more info, he's been doing this for a while now)
 
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Last step before they went in....top down shot
new_corals_7_25_07.jpg



Blue tips
blue_acro_7_25_07.jpg


Purple tips (more than this picture shows)
purple_acro_7_25_07.jpg


Green
green_acro_7_25_07.jpg
 
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