I need plumbing help

[Hitch08]

Well, I found a post from a mod that recommended a 0.5" gap under the center "high" baffle. I ended up going with a 0.75" gap under the center baffle and a 1.5" gap (yes, a 2x4 ) between each baffle.

Now I'm wondering if I should re-do it. I don't have enough room between the baffles to clean them - can only get my finger tips to about 2.5" from the bottom of the tank/sump. Then again, making them wider will mean less room for other stuff. At this point, I have 11.75" for the drain/skimmer, 11.75" for the return area, and then 8" for the refuge. I'm not counting the 1.0" of the 36" that is the thickness of the glass for the tank.

What do you guys think? Once again, I really appreciate all of the help!

 

[sleepydoc]

I would leave them as they are. You generally don't need to clean between baffles that much, and you can always get one of those scrubby things on a stick if you absolutely need to.

There's really no practical difference between 0.5 and 0.75". If you have really high flow, it might be better with 0.75", but the amount of bubbles making it under 0.75" will be the same as under 0.5", and if there are that many bubbles, your flow is probably high enough to justify the extra gap anyway.

 

[Ironwood]

This is a Herbie drain. http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

Only use slip fittings in the overflow box and do not glue anything.

I would just use 1" pipe on the drains. I would avoid any flex PVC if possible and try to use only 45's for your turns. If you go to 1.5" you'll just be closing off the valve that much more. Especially using a Mag 9.5. At 5 ft of head and not accounting for friction loss, the pump is rated at 685 gph. There's no way it would keep up with 1.5" pipe. I would put unions directly under the tank so if you ever had to remove the drains you don't have to hack up your plumbing. The full siphon should terminate no more than 1" below the water level in the sump. The emergency should terminate above the water level to gi
ve you an audible alert that your full siphon has been compromised.

On the return pump I would upsize it to 1". 3/4" FPT x 1" slip adapter and a length of pipe that terminates at the water level, then another adapter and then a union. Normally I would suggest a true union ball valve, but you won't be dialing back this pump on that tank. From there you have your choice between rigid PVC or vinyl. Since you're going up and over the back of the tank I would just use rigid pvc. You may have to wrap the pipe where it hangs on the rim of the tank with pipe insulation to eliminate any vibration.

I'm wondering why you wouldn't use flex pvc. I' currently using it on my system and it worked great. Thanks

 

[CuzzA]

I need plumbing help

IME, I don't see the need for it. It's not all that flexible and most turns can be made with a couple 45's. Also, I'm pretty sure the inside of the pipe is not as smooth as PVC which creates more friction loss. I'm sure it's a minor concern. If you have no choice, then by all means use it.

 

[sleepydoc]

Can't speak for CuzzA, but in general, Spa Flex is not terribly flexible and tends to stay in the form it came in, which can limit its usefulness. It is also ribbed on the inside, increasing resistance to flow somewhat.

For a gravity drain (siphon or otherwise) the ribbing shouldn't be an issue, but the tendency to hold it's curve can be. The main reason to use spa flex is to reduce the head loss from excess fittings. This is virtually never an issue with drain lines and since it can be more difficult to work with, a lot of people prefer to avoid it.

There is a more flexible version (Ultraflex is one name I've seen) of flexible PVC that is supposed to be much better than the standard 'SpaFlex' brand. I haven't used it, so I can't comment on it.

edit - looks like CuzzA posted before me, but at least we agreed!

 

[Hitch08]

Should I sill use 1" on the drains - now that I'm using an SP4? Or should I go 1.25"?

I currently have 1.25" above the bulkhead, which was the size that came with the tank.

 

[sleepydoc]

1" should still be more than adequate for the drains. 1.25 is less likely to get clogged with critters, but you have 1" bulkheads anyway. If it were me, I would not glue the drains in the bulkheads inside the overflow so you can remove them to clean them/clear critters if necessary. below that it doesn't matter too much.

Be aware that if you just friction fit the slip fittings instead of glueing them, the water in the overflow may slowly drain down into your sump over time if there's a power outage. Be sure to take that into account so you don't have a flood.

 

[tennesseebob]

Personally i have never had great experience with spa flex, the glue joints always seem rather weak for a pvc joint, and when they have any side pressure...such as trying to bend it into position, they tend to form a drip for me.

Im sure others have had plenty of success with it, but i think next time, im not gonna bother with it.

 

[Hitch08]

^ That's my concern. I bought some 1" Spa Flex, most of which I planned to use to go from a "T" to a manifold from which I will attach two reactors and feed the Fuge.

The 1" Spa Flex is VERY flexible. To avoid the issue you have had, I'll just use regular PVC for the drains.

Another questions....On the Herbie, would it be a mistake to put a strainer on the emergency drain? Seems like it would help keep critters out of that pipe.