I think it's time to fallow my 220

[jcolley]

So, eventually everyone learns their lesson, some of us slower than others.

Picked up a great looking Powder Blue Tang a couple of weeks ago and since it was straight from the supplier I skipped QT as the arrival was unexpected and my QT/fuge rack was all torn out.

Fish looked fine for a week, but skinny, then a few spots. Came home Tuesday, white spots all over, labored breathing and laying on bottom propped up against side glass.

QT was back up (although insufficient being a 29) and I netted the powder blue quite easily.

Did a quick freshwater dip and off into QT he went. Started adding cupramine to recommended dosage as a pulled the carbon bag out of my HOB filter. 5 hours later...he was not labored anymore.

So, now I notice my Sailfin, Purple, and Yellow are showing some signs of white haze on their fins and definite white spots on the Purple. My tangs are all still small-ish, about 5" for the largest. I'm thinking I should let my 220 go fallow for about 8 weeks and move all the fish to something else to treat with cupramine.

Here's where I ask for opinions on what to do next and will get opinions on what I've done to this point so far. :rolleye1: Yes, I know I've screwed up, I can't change that, I'm just looking for a path forward.

My stock list:
- Yellow tang
- Purple tang
- Sailfin tang
- 2 snowflake clowns
- 3 Pajama cardinals
- 1 Banggai cardinal
- orchid dottyback
- yellow watchman goby
- banded goby
- firefish
- purple firefish

I can get a 55 set up by tomorrow and move everyone to that. Will the 55 be large enough to avoid stressing the 3 tangs for 8 weeks or am I more likely to worsen the situation than leaving them in the DT where they are nice and healthy? I would like to move all to a single hospital tank as maintaining two tanks with copper treatment for 8 weeks is double the work.

I have finally got my DT parameters and dosing stable where I want them and coral growth and coloration are looking good, so I would really like to avoid doing anything which affects the DT. Fallow seems the least impact to the DT as long as I feed a bit to make up for a lack of fish cropdusting poo.

 

[Deinonych]

I just went through what you are (in my case, ich came in on a piece of coral). It was not fun, but I pulled all my fish and are treating them. Keeping them in the DT will just make the problem worse over time. Better to just bite the bullet now and get rid of the parasite. IMO, the 55 will be fine for a temporary solution. It might induce a little stress, but at least it will provide some swimming room.

 

[spieszak]

Personally, I might look for a 75 rather than a 55, not necessarily because of the extra gallonage, but because of the extra width. They aren't going to be 'happy' in any 4 foot tank, but the extra width may allow for more 'turn radius' if they get extra territorial because of it.
75's are almost as plentiful as 55's on craigslist here. Always worth checking there since you may see a deal on something you'd think the fish would be more comfortable in.

 

[HumbleFish]

I would probably split the fish up between the 55 & the 29 you mentioned. Maybe put some of the smaller fish in the 29 to lighten the load in the 55. IMO, all of your fish are good candidates for Cupramine treatment. You will have to temporarily lower the Cupramine level in the 29 before you can introduce the new fish, but then you can raise it back up. Either way, you are looking at lots of WCs in both tanks to keep the ammonia under control. Get a couple of these to keep tabs on the ammonia.

I would move quick if I were you. That Powder Blue might have had Velvet, especially if it got better after a f/w dip. Cupramine doesn't usually start working after only 5 hours. And do yourself a favor and go fallow for 10 weeks (or more), instead of only 8.

 

[Sparkpaul]

What does it mean to go fallow?
No fish at all or no livestock at all?

I have a 200 gallon tank and I have damsels, clowns, trigger, and a yellow tang. I tried to put hippo blue tang, powder blue, and Hawaiian purple tang, they end up with labor breathing and ichs.

I had 5 blue tangs with ichs for almost a year until I gave them away.

Are certain fish more sepceptible to ichs?

How do I eradicate them?

 

[Deinonych]

What does it mean to go fallow?
No fish at all or no livestock at all?

No fish. Inverts can remain in the tank as they are not susceptible to crypto. You have to remove the fish so that the crypto life cycle is broken. There are some great stickies at the top of this forum that go into more detail.

 

[snorvich]

I would move quick if I were you. That Powder Blue might have had Velvet, especially if it got better after a f/w dip.

Exactly, since a fresh water dip has no effect at all on cryptocaryon irritans.

 

[jcolley]

Picking up a 55 and stand today. Local Petco (Portsmouth, NH) agreed to honor their $1/gal sale even though it ended a week or so ago. Can't argue with that, it's cheaper than any I've found on CL so far and much, much closer. Less skeevey as well (mostly).

I'm not sure the powder blue FW dip did anything for him at all and possibly made it worse. It was so sudden his change in behavior I was caught off guard.

Hopefully water mixed and ready to go by morning on the 55.

 

[jcolley]

Update:

All fish are in the 55. Had some problems at first with Ammonia, used some Prime and everything seems under control now.

Have two HOBs:
-Aqueon that came with the new 55 ga tank. Surprisingly, I really like the design with the self priming pump. I have a large bag of BIOMAX pellets in this one and no mechanical filters or carbon
-Marineland HOB with an old carbon filter. I cut the filter apart and just use the plastic screen to retain some filter foam and it also uses the bio-wheel.

Finally get my AmmoniaAlert badges in so feel safer about that.

So I started the cupramine about 3 days ago per the instructions on the bottle, but went to test the levels and well...API Cu test kit is garbage. Ordering a different test kit today.

However, I just read a few previous posts about dangers of ammonia blockers and cupramine. I'm concerned, but not sure how to rectify.

Should I just wait and see? I do about 15-20% WC a week, just wait it out?

Or go agressive with a couple of staggered 50% WC and restore Cu levels after?

Any thoughts?

 

[HumbleFish]

I would probably do a couple of 50% WCs to get most of the Prime out and then resume copper treatment. As you've discovered, mixing copper with an ammonia reducer can turn the copper toxic. And there's no telling how long an ammonia reducer stays active in the water.