theatrus
100-mile-commuter
My venerable IceCap 660 VHO ballast (which I use with T5 lamps) started flickering and would not restart. After smelling the sickly smell of popped electrolytics, I decided to test the "Repairable" moniker on the case.
(Disclaimer: the ballast operates at mains frequencies and power levels. If you do not understand the implications of this, do not attempt.)
First step not pictured: drilling out 4 rivets
. Ok, so not the best for something repairable. I'll have to find a fastener to close the case.
Yup, thats popped. And sprayed everywhere. Ugh. These are Nichicon (good brand) 680uF 250V caps, 30x30mm footprint. Sadly, the fitted caps are only 85C.
At this point I removed the capacitors with solder wick and heating both pins at once. I'm electing to remove both, as this ballast has been in operation since ~ 2006 (date codes on components pin this as being made ~ 2003).
When dealing with popped capacitors, note that the electrolyte is pretty corrosive, and should be washed off with distilled water and/or isopropanol. It also stinks, so do it in the garage or outside
In case there is any other damage, or failed components, its time for a tour of the board:
The logic section. The connector on the bottom is for a dimming control signal, which is only really usable with VHO bulbs according to the instructions.
For the electronics folks, the main components:
IR2110 - gate driver IC
http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/ir2110.pdf
TL594 PWM controller: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tl594.pdf
LM339 Comparator: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm339.pdf
555 Timer :bounce2: (time the ignition cycle?)
LM393 precision comparator
http://www.ti.com.cn/cn/lit/ds/symlink/lm393-n.pdf
The ballast inductors.
The input section (with the caps removed). I've started the process of scrubbing the board down with IPA (not the beer!). Still lots of work to do. You can see the pad of the popped capacitor has already been somewhat damaged. Its totally workable though and doesn't really require any further work than removing any remaining electrolyte.
A current sense transformer (likely?) hiding under the big transformers. There is a row of passives under each of the two transformers.
IGBT: http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irg4pc40ud.pdf
I don't have the replacement capacitors on hand, but a 105C footprint compatible parts is $4.50 in singles on Mouser. Everything else appears to be in working order (the main IGBT transistors are intact, no burning smells or char marks, etc).
I'll followup with putting the new caps in place.
(Disclaimer: the ballast operates at mains frequencies and power levels. If you do not understand the implications of this, do not attempt.)
First step not pictured: drilling out 4 rivets
. Ok, so not the best for something repairable. I'll have to find a fastener to close the case.
Yup, thats popped. And sprayed everywhere. Ugh. These are Nichicon (good brand) 680uF 250V caps, 30x30mm footprint. Sadly, the fitted caps are only 85C.
At this point I removed the capacitors with solder wick and heating both pins at once. I'm electing to remove both, as this ballast has been in operation since ~ 2006 (date codes on components pin this as being made ~ 2003).
When dealing with popped capacitors, note that the electrolyte is pretty corrosive, and should be washed off with distilled water and/or isopropanol. It also stinks, so do it in the garage or outside
In case there is any other damage, or failed components, its time for a tour of the board:
The logic section. The connector on the bottom is for a dimming control signal, which is only really usable with VHO bulbs according to the instructions.
For the electronics folks, the main components:
IR2110 - gate driver IC
http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/ir2110.pdf
TL594 PWM controller: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tl594.pdf
LM339 Comparator: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm339.pdf
555 Timer :bounce2: (time the ignition cycle?)
LM393 precision comparator
http://www.ti.com.cn/cn/lit/ds/symlink/lm393-n.pdf
The ballast inductors.
The input section (with the caps removed). I've started the process of scrubbing the board down with IPA (not the beer!). Still lots of work to do. You can see the pad of the popped capacitor has already been somewhat damaged. Its totally workable though and doesn't really require any further work than removing any remaining electrolyte.
A current sense transformer (likely?) hiding under the big transformers. There is a row of passives under each of the two transformers.
IGBT: http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irg4pc40ud.pdf
I don't have the replacement capacitors on hand, but a 105C footprint compatible parts is $4.50 in singles on Mouser. Everything else appears to be in working order (the main IGBT transistors are intact, no burning smells or char marks, etc).
I'll followup with putting the new caps in place.
