Yes, that is the problem with using UV or Ozone as a treatment for MI. As a water clarifier, both have value.
ich always the winner?
- Thread starter lagatbezan
- Start date
Yes, that is the problem with using UV or Ozone as a treatment for MI. As a water clarifier, both have value.
Dog boy Dave
New member
This isnt opinion. Its experience, it works, I have done it. I havent learned the hard way. Since i started using it I havent lost any fish and they are doing fine. If you want to control Ich in a marine tank, Ozone is effective. If you dont want to try it then dont. Anyone else that is having problems keeping their fish alive might want to listen to someone who doesnt have that problem and try what worked for someone who is sucessful. Maybe not.
Of course, quarantine.
Even so you can get burned.
But I haven't lost a fish to ich since about 1983. How do I avoid it? Source. Do not buy from sources that sell you ich-infested fish. Do not buy from a store that coppers its fish tanks. (masks the problem) The lowest price on the internet is not necessarily the best bargain: the pricier source that has its own quarantine and guarantee is your better choice. Certain species (angels, tangs, clowns, rabbits, puffers) are more susceptible to disease and parasites than others (blennies, gobies, dartfish, etc.) IMHO the first defence is where you buy; your second is your quarantine; and your third is not to add new fish very often at all. Acquire your fish and just watch them grow and act without getting any new ones, and you will have far less trouble. Do your collecting and decorating with corals, which are less problematic---if you dip them.
Even so you can get burned.
But I haven't lost a fish to ich since about 1983. How do I avoid it? Source. Do not buy from sources that sell you ich-infested fish. Do not buy from a store that coppers its fish tanks. (masks the problem) The lowest price on the internet is not necessarily the best bargain: the pricier source that has its own quarantine and guarantee is your better choice. Certain species (angels, tangs, clowns, rabbits, puffers) are more susceptible to disease and parasites than others (blennies, gobies, dartfish, etc.) IMHO the first defence is where you buy; your second is your quarantine; and your third is not to add new fish very often at all. Acquire your fish and just watch them grow and act without getting any new ones, and you will have far less trouble. Do your collecting and decorating with corals, which are less problematic---if you dip them.
MrTuskfish
Team RC
I'm glad it worked for you.
Tracey2
Member
I have an 80w uv on my system and my fish have never looked healthier. I still don't claim to have an ich free tank and will still QT new arrivals but mostly to get them eating well and build their immune systems and I will also try to keep stress to a minimum. I am also considering adding ozone for water clarity but have no regrets adding uv, I feel it was money well spent but not unless it is large enough and set up properly.
I have also left my tank fallow a couple of times, once for 8 weeks, once for 8 months before the uv, pita. I think its way too easy to add ich to our tanks so my plan is to manage any outbreaks with uv, ozone, excellent diet and vitamins.
I have also left my tank fallow a couple of times, once for 8 weeks, once for 8 months before the uv, pita. I think its way too easy to add ich to our tanks so my plan is to manage any outbreaks with uv, ozone, excellent diet and vitamins.
MrTuskfish
Team RC
Its easy to keep ich out, too. IMO & IME, "managing " ich is playing with fire; the list of posts on this forum from hobbyists who thought they were ''managing" ich, then lost a lot of fish is a long one. And ich is nothing compared to velvet or brooklynella; both fairly easily cured in QT,if caught in time.
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Curious George
New member
I am shocked that putting a MASSIVE UV on the tank didn't help the problem for the OP. I have been doing research on the type of sterilizer I will be getting. I had one a long time ago and it worked for me really well.
I know it does not stop ich, but I look at it as "Population Control" to prevent an all out assault on the tank. QT, healthy eating fish, and a UV Sterilizer seems to be a winning combination to me.
To the OP--is the flow regulated through the sterilizer you have?? (Just curious)
I know it does not stop ich, but I look at it as "Population Control" to prevent an all out assault on the tank. QT, healthy eating fish, and a UV Sterilizer seems to be a winning combination to me.
To the OP--is the flow regulated through the sterilizer you have?? (Just curious)
Curious George
New member
original poster
lagatbezan
Active member
The UV is 55Watts and I have a pump on it that pushes 270g/h on it which is what it was recommended and its running 24/7. The UV is placed in my stand with the pump in my sump. its just that in order for the UV to be fully effective, ALL the ich have to some how end up going into the overflow, then through the sump and then again some how through the pump for the UV. I'm sure that some of them are being zapped but again, there is still ich in the system. I'm sure its doing something as far as control, but my main plan was eraticating it from my system.
Curious George
New member
Thanks for answering my question....
ever thought about putting the pump to run the UV directly in the tank (About mid way down) and kicking up the flow to around 350 GPH. MIght be more effective directly in the DT as opposed to in the sump.
ever thought about putting the pump to run the UV directly in the tank (About mid way down) and kicking up the flow to around 350 GPH. MIght be more effective directly in the DT as opposed to in the sump.
MrTuskfish
Team RC
If a UV pump moves more than the recommended volume, the exposure to the UV is not long enough to kill the parasites. Proper flow and constant maintenance are essential to UV doing anything.
MrTuskfish
Team RC
A fallow tank or a proper QT. There are a lot of folks with big reef tanks who QT ALL new additions. I guess you weigh the odds and take a chance if you want to. I won't take that that chance again, I've gone through the results. But if someone else wants to risk it, that's up to them. Please don't take this the wrong way: I consider having the proper equipment essential to purchasing any animal and that includes proper QT lighting. Not buying a certain anemone because I couldn't QT it is the same as not buying a second Sohal tang because I can't properly house it. But that's my decision, I try not to push that reasoning, I just push the fact that people often have consequences that could have been avoided. BTW; as more & more reefkeepers are moving to LED lighting; it may be a great time to find a MH for a QT on craig's list, E-bay, etc.
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Tracey2
Member
When I added uv I also blew the rocks daily and did many large water changes. I don't see ich in my tank anymore, that doesn't mean its not there though. I found this good info
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=36805
Mr.Tuskfish, good points. I have gone to great lengths to remove ich from my system and have since QT'd all new fish, I have not added coral to this tank yet. I guess I will give some thought to a coral qt setup, do you have one, any pics?
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=36805
Mr.Tuskfish, good points. I have gone to great lengths to remove ich from my system and have since QT'd all new fish, I have not added coral to this tank yet. I guess I will give some thought to a coral qt setup, do you have one, any pics?
MrTuskfish
Team RC
I took a quick look at the link, looks interesting and I'll finish it later. The thing that jumped out was the chart that shows kill rate. But, UV only kills the parasites that pass through it. When an ich cyst, resting who knows where, releases all the new free-swimming parasites; what happens? Some find the UV intake and are killed, others certainly find a fish host and continue the cycle. Proper flow & maintenance are vital to UV working at all; but its obvious that UV won't and can't cure or prevent parasites like ich. It will help, though, in a tank with an established population. IMO & IME, a temporary band-aid. BTW, I can never remember reading anything by any recognized ''authority" on SW fishkeeping (if there is such a thing) who said UV cures ich. People like Fenner, Goemans, Michael. Paletta, etc.) I do think it is possible, although rare, for ich to "burn out"; but it will be a real pain until (and if) that happens.
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