Ich/equipment
- Thread starter alwmh4
- Start date
Spar
New member
drying out is the for-sure option. the item needs to be completely dry and stay that way for 24 hours (so 48 hours is the safer bet).
but also depends on what equipment you are referring to. if it is something that has lots of crevices that water will have a hard time evaporating out of, it adds extra complications and you need to take it apart and let it dry all throughout; adding some extra time if necessary.
but also depends on what equipment you are referring to. if it is something that has lots of crevices that water will have a hard time evaporating out of, it adds extra complications and you need to take it apart and let it dry all throughout; adding some extra time if necessary.
FishN00b83
New member
when doing TTM or anything I just use scolding hot water to clean everything and let the equipment sit on the window sill for 2 days. everything is usually dry in 1 day but the extra day never hurts.
ThRoewer
New member
Pumps may have small crevices and hidden cavities that make drying out difficult and unreliably. It's best to have 4 pumps, 4 heaters and 4 tanks for TTM so that you don't have to struggle with sterilizing anything during the process.
After use I would wash the tanks and let them dry out well. The pumps and heaters I would run either in a bucket with bleach for a day or in hot water (50°C to 60°C) for a minimum of 2 hours and then dry them.
After the fish are transferred out it should actually even be enough to just crank up the heat in the TTM tank to about 50°C for a couple of hours to kill all Cryptocaryon stages, as Cryptocaryon stages won't survive exposure to temperatures above 40°C for at least on hour. The additional time and temperature will make sure that every spot in the tank is properly treated.
You just need to make sure to top-up the water level above the level you had while fish were in the tank. This works of course best with acrylic tanks due to their thermal insolation properties. With this method you could even re-use the water for another tank or TTM step as it is also sterilized in regards to Cryptocaryon stages.
This is the way I plan to do it when cleaning up my fish.
After use I would wash the tanks and let them dry out well. The pumps and heaters I would run either in a bucket with bleach for a day or in hot water (50°C to 60°C) for a minimum of 2 hours and then dry them.
After the fish are transferred out it should actually even be enough to just crank up the heat in the TTM tank to about 50°C for a couple of hours to kill all Cryptocaryon stages, as Cryptocaryon stages won't survive exposure to temperatures above 40°C for at least on hour. The additional time and temperature will make sure that every spot in the tank is properly treated.
You just need to make sure to top-up the water level above the level you had while fish were in the tank. This works of course best with acrylic tanks due to their thermal insolation properties. With this method you could even re-use the water for another tank or TTM step as it is also sterilized in regards to Cryptocaryon stages.
This is the way I plan to do it when cleaning up my fish.
ThRoewer
New member
I feel heat is the safest as it will get everywhere. The issue with most pumps made mostly of thermoplastic material is that they won't handle boiling water and deform. That's why you need to limit the heat to 60°C.
If you use only airstones and hoses, you could just boil them for 10 minutes and be done. Drying would in this case be optional.
If you use only airstones and hoses, you could just boil them for 10 minutes and be done. Drying would in this case be optional.
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