Ich is terrible

John2755

New member
OK so i just finished up my four week fallow period, put my fish back in about a week ago and today noticed spots of ich on my naso and hippo tangs and I am really frustrated on what to do.
Facts about my system:
100 gallon display
only has three fish in it ( naso tang, yellow tang, and a blue tang)
Im running a 15 watt uv but I don't think that does much for me
I do not want to go fallow again but the health of my fish is primary so i will do it. I was wondering if i drained my tank and took out all the rock and sand and let them dry out while my fish were in a hospital tank would that cure everything? Obviously i would have to let the tank recycle but its faster than waiting four weeks or even longer.
My system is only three months old and I am really frustrated with ich in my new tank.
 
Tank transfer method the fish and you should leave display tank fallow of 72 days. 4 weeks was too short. I know it sounds like a long time but it is much easier than breaking down your tank and starting over.
 
Tank transfer method the fish and you should leave display tank fallow of 72 days. 4 weeks was too short. I know it sounds like a long time but it is much easier than breaking down your tank and starting over.

What is the tank transfer method exactly? Ive heard of it but never seen it explained
 
Tank transfer method the fish and you should leave display tank fallow of 72 days. 4 weeks was too short. I know it sounds like a long time but it is much easier than breaking down your tank and starting over.

agreed. fallow time for ich is 72 days minimum.
 
You need a bigger UV 40 watt AquaUV or emperor UV. No more than ~150 gph through it. The slow flow is extremely important as that provides enough exposure time to kill of the free swimming ones, nothing else will do you any good (as far as a UV goes). Other wise TTM, 76! Days fallow. No less.


Aaron
 
Tank transfer method the fish and you should leave display tank fallow of 72 days. 4 weeks was too short. I know it sounds like a long time but it is much easier than breaking down your tank and starting over.

This.
 
You need a bigger UV 40 watt AquaUV or emperor UV. No more than ~150 gph through it. The slow flow is extremely important as that provides enough exposure time to kill of the free swimming ones, nothing else will do you any good (as far as a UV goes). Other wise TTM, 76! Days fallow. No less.


Aaron

UV even when sized properly has little value for parasite control.
 
Sorry for your troubles. Hang in there
When my 125 got ich, I took the opportunity to restart it. It worked out to about the same 72 days, but I got to correct some of the mistakes I made when I first set it up.
Others have already given good advice, so I hope you read and learn about TTM. Use it now and for all future livestock.
It's been over a year and 20+ fish since I began using it. Fish have died in QT, but my 3 main systems remain disease free.
 
Before you do TTM (Transfer tank metal) you should know:
1- 2 or 3 tanks to transfer
2- 2 set of equipment needed as heater, overflow, filter hob
3- The most important thing is WHERE DO GET MIX SALTWATER? you cannot use saltwater from DT
4- After 15 days for 5 times TTM then where do you store your fishes because your DT still in process of 72 days treatment.
K9Doberman said all his fishes die in Quarantine tank because fish cannot pass Nitrite cycle, so be careful and make your right decisions.

For My opinion, Treat your fishes then sell them quick then enjoy your empty tank for awhile then looking for other fish WITHOUT ICH from other hobbies. I am sure you will relax and less stress when you have no fish while treat your tank. I and many people have been there so I know how much your frustrate and stress everyday then finally, your fishes still die cause they can't pass water cycle.
Other people buy your fishes, they can treat fishes easier because they can use their DT water but not you.
 
Last edited:
Before you do TTM (Transfer tank metal) you should know:
1- 2 or 3 tanks to transfer
2- 2 set of equipment needed as heater, overflow, filter hob
3- The most important thing is WHERE DO GET MIX SALTWATER? you cannot use saltwater from DT
4- After 15 days for 5 times TTM then where do you store your fishes because your DT still in process of 72 days treatment.
K9Doberman said all his fishes die in Quarantine tank because fish cannot pass Nitrite cycle, so be careful and make your right decisions.

For My opinion, Treat your fishes then sell them quick then enjoy your empty tank for awhile then looking for other fish WITHOUT ICH from other hobbies. I am sure you will relax and less stress when you have no fish while treat your tank. I and many people have been there so I know how much your frustrate and stress everyday then finally, your fishes still die cause they can't pass water cycle.
Other people buy your fishes, they can treat fishes easier because they can use their DT water but not you.
I have 4 extra tanks and my own Rodi unit so it is not logical to sell all
Of my fish nor am I going to.
 
The keyboard on my computer went out so I couldn't post this a couple days ago but the white spots were on my fish for a day maximum? I did not treat them with any of those supposed "ich medicines" it just went away so does that mean it was even ich?
 
What about the fish, did You treat them in the hospital aquarium? If you didn't, you will always have ich again...

I had ich before, it wiped out all my fish after introducing a blue tang. I didn't treat them as i should. Ich as 3 or 4 cycles of life. One week they seemed better, but in the week after they were worse than ever. When i finally did something it was too late.

A zebrasoma flavescens died in my hand during a freshwater dip... He bled to death in my hand through his infected gills... A profound nightmare to me that i will never forget.

I left the tank without fish for 5 weeks. All fish died in the quarantine aquarium...

After 5 weeks, new fish and no more ich . So lesson number one, no more blue tang! Lesson number 2, if ich get's out of control treat all the fish with copper.

A few years later it came back, probably with other introduced fish, i find it hard to avoid ich. I mean right now, i have around 10 fish and sometimes i see my strigosus and hepatus with 2 or 3 white spots...
I treated with cupramine copper the whole time during the four weeks
 
I just had this issue myself, caught it very early and removed the tang that was showing signs of ich, hes currently in qt tank being treated with the reef safe garlic stuff, water temperature is 82°, salinity is 1.015 and I am doing 50% water changes daily. The ich can't survive in a low salinity environment, I am slowing going to 1.012 which should kill the ich, not the best for the fish but better than copper.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
I just had this issue myself, caught it very early and removed the tang that was showing signs of ich, hes currently in qt tank being treated with the reef safe garlic stuff, water temperature is 82°, salinity is 1.015 and I am doing 50% water changes daily. The ich can't survive in a low salinity environment, I am slowing going to 1.012 which should kill the ich, not the best for the fish but better than copper.

Garlic has no value. Lower your temperature. Hypo is 1.009/8
 
I just had this issue myself, caught it very early and removed the tang that was showing signs of ich, hes currently in qt tank being treated with the reef safe garlic stuff, water temperature is 82°, salinity is 1.015 and I am doing 50% water changes daily. The ich can't survive in a low salinity environment, I am slowing going to 1.012 which should kill the ich, not the best for the fish but better than copper.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

That treatment will not kill Ich. Check out the stickys in the disease forum. Also, just taking out the one fish that was showing symptoms is pointless. It will come back shortly after the tang is returned to your display.
 
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