Ich Questions

jmorgret

New member
I read the links to the disease and I know how it works, but I don't know the following:

1. Will a fish with Ich positively 100% effect all the other fish in the tank?

2. Is it possible for a fish with Ich to beat it without treatment and remain living? Or is it a death sentence unless treated?

My problem is I suspect Ich on my tang here on the eve before my family leaves for vacation. There is just absolutely nothing I can do, no way I can get my QT tank up in time, much less keep it maintained while I am gone. I have 2 hopes: I am going to call my LFS tomorrow and see if he can find a place for it while I am gone, it won't be treated or anything, but would be out of my tank, but I'm not counting on this.... or bite the bullett and hope they are ok for the week I am gone and try to deal with it as soon as I get back. I'm not 100% sure its Ich yet, as the YT is not fond of people by the tank and I can't get a good look. He's out and about all the time when we are not near the tank, we can see it from the dining room when eating and he's always out, but as soon as I get up close he goes into the rocks. I caught a glimpse this evening and thought maybe I saw some spots. Plus it would explain why my other fish are flashing. Any suggestions??
 
Get some sinking food laced with garlic and have your fish-sitter feed this instead of the regular. Formula One Sinking Pellets have this. Failing that, have him/her pour garlic powder (cooking type; not garlic salt) in a dish and soak the food in it before feeding.

Sometimes it's only one fish. Sometimes they get over it.

Garlic has a reputation of helping other fish fight it off, and unsupported reports of helping stricken fish survive. Given the absence of all other remedies, I hope this one will work for you. I don't know if a tang may eat Formula One. Ask if Formula Two has a similar version, or use the soaking method.
 
1. If you see a fish infected with Marine Ich (Crytpocaryon irritans) then you need to assume that all fish in the aquarium are infected. Marine Ich usually strikes the gills first, which makes it undetectable to the human eye. Also, the stage of Marine Ich (MI) you see is a short period of when the parasite is engorged (pregnant) and ready to fall off the fish. It can still be on your fish, but you wouldn't see it until at the end of this stage of its life cycle.

2. It is possible for the fish to survive MI. It may develop an immunity to the parasite, or already have that immunity, or it may be resistant to the parasite.

You'll find many threads on RC regarding the approach to take with fish infected with MI. Some advocate using reef-safe medications. (I've found none to work reliably). Some advocate doing nothing and just leave the fish alone to live or die. (I think this is irresponsible fishkeeping). Some advocate improving the fish's health through foods, supplements and additives, and letting the fish live or die. (I think that even though the fish is being helped to fight the disease, the fish is still being severely irritated and stressed from the effects of the disease. It seems that some aquarists have no problem with putting their fish through this trauma. I call it 'torture.' Thus, I still put this into the category of irresponsible fishkeeping.) My only recommendation has been and still is, to quarantine all fish and treat them, letting the display tank go fishless for no less than 8 weeks. After that, practice a proper quarantine procedure successfully and like me, you can keep your display tank(s) free of MI for 35+ years.

Diagnosis is very important, of course. If you sit down in front of your tank and remain still, it make take a few minutes or half an hour, but your fish will likely come out, if nothing more than out of curiosity. If it hides so much, then are you sure it is eating? I mean, doesn't it come out when you feed the fishes?

Your particular situation seems to be hopeless, unless you can get a knowledgeable and willing aquarist to come in and follow the procedure you want them to follow. I have hired such people during my planned absences.

Good luck! :rollface:
 
Thanks for the input. I have seen the tang eat from a distance and he also picks at the veggie clip I provide for him. I have been soaking all food in garlic and will continue. All the fish are acting normal, outside of the flashing, so I guess I can only hope they can last the week if this is MI. I'm going to try to get a good look at the tang today. Before I leave I am going to do a partial water change for routine maintenance, should I take the water from the tank and fill my qt tank and let that run the week I am gone? What I was going to do was fill up the qt and mix it up before I leave and let it run. Then when I get back, if needed, I can take one of the two bio-wheels off the main tank filter and put it on a single bio wheel filter for the qt. With the bio wheel from the main tank, I shouldn't have to wait for the qt to cycle correct?? Thanks for the input again.
 
You're welcome.

I have little faith in garlic at this stage. I have more faith in vitamins, fat supplements, and beta glucan PLUS the best foods possible as I posted here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=785228

If the bio-wheel has been operating in your display tank more than 8 weeks, it should be ready to use in your QT. Even though the biological filter may be functioning at the outset, remember that a copper treatment or a hyposalinity treatment will often interrupt the biological cycle causing the QT to have ammonia/nitrite spikes. Always have plenty of mixed water ready to use for changes.

Using the water from your main tank to start off your QT is fine. It is a good idea, IMHO. After you begin any kind of treatment in your QT, that practice must stop and you from then on want to use freshly made salt water for your water changes for your QT.

I would put a bit of food in the QT before you leave in order to maintain some bacterial growth in that water. Just the quantity 'half-a-fish' would eat in one meal. :D
 
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