ich/sterilizer thoughts..

So
IMO saying this is basically telling people not to QT...
As you also mention if someone has a proper QT then they can and will eradicate ICH, just as I have done from my system. I also agree you should QT coral and anything else wet but that is a completley different discussion.

A QT also lets the fish settle in and lets you train them to eat prepared foods without competition from other tankmakes (although this argument doesn't apply to the situation described in the opening post).

If you get a fish with velvet you will kill your entire tank in a matter of weeks if not days... I do not want to be a fish in your tank when that happens because it is not a pretty sight.



I agree with Pyrrhus 100%.

So i qt. A fish for 6 weeks is that long enough? I got 13 fish in my tank and yes its a crap shoot, i only qted the last 4 fish (after reading rc posts over and over) and of course the very last fish, I add after qt brings ick. Please explain before bashing 82ndengineer. I dont 100% AGREE with what hes saying, i have seen a number of times that qt does not always CURE ALL.
 
Did I say NOT to qt anywere in my posts. IMO your just reading it wrong. I said IF you don't do it right it's a worthless gesture. Nowhere did I say not to do it at all. I'm also smart enough to know what I'm doing when I buy fish that I've never had to deal with velvet or brook. Worst I've had to deal with is ich and as I've stated my fish have all survived bouts with ich. As a matter of fact the only fish I've lost have been due to carpet surfing from an overly aggressive damsel that I put in when I was cycling. Quit reading into what I'm saying and read "what" I'm saying. Do it properly or it's not worth doing at all. I'm sure someone famous said that somewhere. And again this is all MY opinion nothing more.
 
Qt is not a fool proof or truly effective method to rid fish of any bacteria or parasite. Most organisms can go dormant just like in our body and stress can trigger a new outbreak even after qt. All of my fish have had ich at one time or another and have come through just fine. They are all fat and healthy so I'm sure that plays a big role in it but I'm not one for stressing a sick fish more than they already are. Ride the storm.

Right here is where you say to not qt.

This is bad information based on bad assumptions.

Flukes will not survive appropriate medications. Ich will not survive appropriate medications or other treatments. These are proven facts and are not up for discussion. As others have mentioned even a simple no medication resting period will do wonders for fish and go a long way towards protecting the rest of your livestock.

You are wrong. Please stop posting your misinformation. You are not helping anyone especially the fish. These are also facts and not up for debate.

If you wanna help then offer suggestions for how people can improve their qt methods.

I will continue to call you out on your BS if you are gonna keep posting it.
 
Skip is right........
this is why I said to read up on the main forum.... you either QT and not have ich or you don't and roll the dice.
 
So

So i qt. A fish for 6 weeks is that long enough? I got 13 fish in my tank and yes its a crap shoot, i only qted the last 4 fish (after reading rc posts over and over) and of course the very last fish, I add after qt brings ick. Please explain before bashing 82ndengineer. I dont 100% AGREE with what hes saying, i have seen a number of times that qt does not always CURE ALL.

I don't understand what it is you want explained? There are several stickies in the fish disease treatment forum. If you have a question about a specific treatment or disease please ask and we will help to the best of our abilities.

I'm also smart enough to know what I'm doing when I buy fish that I've never had to deal with velvet or brook.

FYI low levels of copper (used in most LFS) can and will hide signs of velvet so you cannot simply look at and know that a fish isn't infected.
 
And just to add that I personally don't have the patience to reliably keep accurate hypo salinity for any extended period of time, so I prefer cupramine for 3-4 weeks and I ramp up to the full dose over the course of 5-7 days.
 
AHH Ski[p it seems your the one making assumptions here. Look all I said is I don't stress fish by taking them out of my system to qt them after an out break as all my fish are healthy enough to handle what they have. Stop putting words in my mouth. Nowhere did I say to absolutely NOT qt. If you can't read at a high enough level to understand my statements I'm sorry. I am simply( I thought) stating DO IT RIGHT. And it IS like you say that flukes and ich will die when medicated properly. But what I'm telling you is as I've said and I hope you truly understand this time is to be truly effective you have to qt everything that comes into your tank not just fish. Rollinnoland thanks for seeing what I'm saying. And yes copper can hide signs of disease but I shop at places that qt their fish so I don't worry about it. What he wanted explained is what I've been saying. You slip even a little bit on your qt practice and you run the risk of re introducing things back into your system.
 
Proper qt

1. purchase main setup of your choice
2. purchase appropriate sized qt for fish choice. ( no queen angels in a 20 gal please)
3. if doing corals purchase seperate appropriate qt system
4. setup main display
5. add live rock and sand ( live not live - dealers choice)
6. cycle
7. qt all corals and fish appropriately
( this means add all fish and corals for 1 qt cycle ( tbd by meds or no meds-dealers choice) and do not add anything in the middle of the qt cycle or you'll have to start over
8. add qt'ed livestock to tank
9. sanatize qt equipment
10. rinse and repeat as necessary till desired results are achieved
11. at the end you can always use the coral qt as a frag tank( bonus yeah)
12. Keep fish qt for off chance that you slip and break qt procedures and re introduce something to tank.
 
Since you actually posted useful and pertinent information I will overlook the condescension and ad hominem attacks.

Fyi, my reading comprehension has been tested in the 98th percentile.
 
Then how is it that you failed to grasp what I'm saying and put words in my mouth there by making me feel attacked. As far as being condescending, I'm sorry but a blanket statement about what I said being BS without you seeming to understand my whole point was a little hasty. Please point out where I said not to qt. Do you disagree with my assessment that qt needs to be done correctly to be effective? As the OP stated he thinks it came in on some algae he didn't qt it properly. I also wonder now if it may have something to do with his other post about the power company messing with his power. Possibly there was a temp swing or reduced O2 levels that caused undue stress to his fish.
 
thanks for all the input guys. Before my next stmt, I'd like to say that I still support QTing (assuming its done correctly).

I QT'd my percs, both def had ich..but were eating and swimming happily. QT had exact temp/salinity and was 70% from my display tank, 30% new clean water. Had mj900 + air pump. Before even getting to drop down the salinity, the female was struggling and died today (roughly 30hrs after getting into the tank). Male looked terrible shortly after and was laying on bottom of tank. Without any other ideas, I put him back in the display and he swam around for a bit, but went into rocks - can't find him now.

I think the shock of going into a new tank did them in when coupled with the parasite. Nothing was different than the display, I even kept light cycle the same for them. Still believe in the QT process, but like all things medicine/health/treatment related...doesn't always pan out. Now down to only my yellow tang :(
 
thanks for all the input guys. Before my next stmt, I'd like to say that I still support QTing (assuming its done correctly).

I QT'd my percs, both def had ich..but were eating and swimming happily. QT had exact temp/salinity and was 70% from my display tank, 30% new clean water. Had mj900 + air pump. Before even getting to drop down the salinity, the female was struggling and died today (roughly 30hrs after getting into the tank). Male looked terrible shortly after and was laying on bottom of tank. Without any other ideas, I put him back in the display and he swam around for a bit, but went into rocks - can't find him now.

I think the shock of going into a new tank did them in when coupled with the parasite. Nothing was different than the display, I even kept light cycle the same for them. Still believe in the QT process, but like all things medicine/health/treatment related...doesn't always pan out. Now down to only my yellow tang :(
 
This is why I said I just leave my fish and try to feed them and reduce the stress brought on by moving them to a seperate system. I applaude you for trying but sometimes the stress can be to much. Sorry for your loss. Did you see in my post about whether or not it might have had something to do with your power going off.
 
This is why I said I just leave my fish and try to feed them and reduce the stress brought on by moving them to a seperate system. I applaude you for trying but sometimes the stress can be to much. Sorry for your loss. Did you see in my post about whether or not it might have had something to do with your power going off.

Power outage may have been the issue had it been one of the tangs that appeared to take the hardest hit. These clowns were swimming/eating no diff the day of the outage. Would still follow me around and would even still take food by hand.

My corals and other inverts are still flourishing..so i may just take it easy on the fish for a bit until i re-gather my nerves.
 
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