ICH Treatment in FOWLR Tank

So my coral beauty died last night and symptoms all pointed to ich. now I see my puffer has three spots on him as well. he is eating and still being a goof. I performed a 40% water change yesterday and today I am going to get my ich meds. I do not have a QT tank or room for one at the moment. Will my other fish be safe in the tank with the treatment? ( 1 cleaner shrimp, two perc clowns, six line wrasse, leopard puffer) Any feedback would help!
 
So my coral beauty died last night and symptoms all pointed to ich. now I see my puffer has three spots on him as well. he is eating and still being a goof. I performed a 40% water change yesterday and today I am going to get my ich meds. I do not have a QT tank or room for one at the moment. Will my other fish be safe in the tank with the treatment? ( 1 cleaner shrimp, two perc clowns, six line wrasse, leopard puffer) Any feedback would help!


Your shrimp will die from copper or hyposalinity.

In my experience, hypo has always been difficult to manage while putting huge stress on the fish. Never had luck with hypo.

CopperPower had significant results.


Those fish are usually small. Grab a 10gallon for your QT
 
If I move some stuff around do you think that a 5 gallon would work? My puffer who is 1 1/2" long would be the one in jail for a bit.
 
In my experience in both salt and fresh tanks I've had, turning the temp up to 82 F has always taken care of the problem. Since you don't have any corals, I would add this at least as a supplement to your meds.
 
Depending on the fish you have, you may be able to go as high as 86 F. 82 or 84 if you're not sure what your stock can handle.
 
Got it thanks. I've also read that bumping the temp up and adding meds gets rid of it pretty quick. I just don't want to kill my cleaner shrimp.
 
In a Fowler tank I would just dose chloroquine phosphate


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I suggested raising the temp as a supplement, not a cure. Either I've been really lucky and had all fish with amazing immune systems, or raising the temp DOES help. I doubt it's the former...
 
High temp may help for some, but you can still get it. I do not chill my tank in the summer and it sits around 82-83. I still got ich.
 
Fresh water ich, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, is temperature sensitive. Marine ich, cryptocaryon irritans is not, at least within a range tolerable to fish.
 
I successfully treated a 210 fowlr with 200lbs of live rock and 120lbs of sand for ich about a year ago. My inverts have been returned to the tank and all is well. Pull your shrimp to a small qt tank. Treat with cupramine, go to seachem's website and get detailed info. It's very important you test and remember it will take more than the recommended amount to get you there. The rocks and substrate will become saturated and at that point your copper level with stabilize. Afterwards use cuprizorb, go to seachem's website for details; the key is using it 2-3 weeks after your copper test zero.
 
Fresh water ich, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, is temperature sensitive. Marine ich, cryptocaryon irritans is not, at least within a range tolerable to fish.
Good to know, and I appreciate that correction. Always worked in fresh for me, and the one time I had it in my new salt tank I didn't have corals yet, and that's all I did was raise the temp. Must have been some hardy fish then in my case. I was so new to salt at the time I didn't want to mess with medications and make a mistake.

Edit: I'm not inhumane, I would have medicated if the fish got worse, but they bounced back quickly once I set the heater temp, so I assumed that did the trick and everyone survived.
 
Wow thanks for all the input guys I really appreciate it. My puffer who I thought had inch doesn't appear to have any white spots on him now. Could it have been a piece or two of sand? Or I'm guessing he's still infected but it disappears on the outside
 
Could have been sand or if it was ich then it is just a part of the natural lifecycle. In a nut shell the life cycle is, infected fish possible to see the white spots. in a couple days the parasite falls off eventually to settle on a hard object/ surface then encycts for up to 72 days, "hatches" then finds another fish to start over.

This life cycle is what makes the Tank transfer method (TTM) so effective if done correctly. It utilizes the ich life cycle against itself by the time ich will stay in the fish. There are some great stickies in the fish disease forum.

BTW ich is one of the least of my worries when it comes to fish parasites and disease. Good luck just my 2 cents.
 
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