Ich treatment with copper and hyposalinity, help needed please.

VeL

New member
Hello,
Sadly I will have to make my first post on this subforum but I guess it is all my fault. I have Ich.
My tank is 8 month old, 120g, lots of live rock, no corals yet, just few polyps (I am still working on my LED DIY lightning when I have some extra time). Since the first month I have a pair of clowns and a diamond watchman goby and they were doing and still doing fine. I've never quarantined, it is not that I did not want, just the desire of having a fish was huge and I didn't have a QT tank at that time. During the past months, I've suspected that I may have some sort of parasites as I've observed few times the clowns and goby scratching, however it was really seldom and there were no other sypthoms what-so-ever.
So a week ago I decided to get some new fish, Yellow, Kole and Hippo Tangs, Neon Goby and Green Mandarin. Again, I didn't QT, I felt I might be pushing my luck, but I thought that "IF" I have Ich in the tank and even if I QT the new fish for 8 weeks, there was still a big chance of getting ich again once they are put into the DT.
Tangs are ich magnets, i knew that. The first day after they were introduced to their new home the Hippo had 5 white spots... But I've thought, it is due to stress and once he settles down his immune system will fight it and he'll get better. Well after feeding with extra garlic soaked green and red nori, the tangs were doing great for some days. The spots disappeared the next day, they were eating great, no fast breathing, they were exploring their new home, just happy fish. Until couple of days ago when the blue tang had white spots again, then in the next 24 hours all tangs were breathing heavily, not eating and hiding. All other fish were ok. Today the tangs look better, do not breath so fast, eat well, still lots of white cysts though, on the neon goby as well. Nothing on the clowns or the diamond goby yet. Absolutely nothing on the Mandarin, I've heard Mandarins are immune to Ich. I guess my plain of good nutritious diet and improving fish immune system is just not working. Time for active treatment.
I have Cupramine and Sachem Copper tests. Recently I sold all my freshwater fish and now I have a spare 30g tank that I think (and hope) will be ok as treatment tank for: Yellow tang 2", Kole 2", Hippo 1.5", 2 Clowns 1", diamond goby, neon goby.
As for the Mandarin, I have a 15g tank for it, I plan on doing Hyposalinity for 8 weeks as I've read it will not handle copper well.
So I have "a plan", however there are few problems on the way. First setting up the hospital tanks... Shortly after I got the new fish I got a feeling that things could go bad and I put a sponge from an airstone filter in the sump and it has been there for 5 days now and I am not sure if that time is sufficient to populate enough nitrifying bacteria to cycle the 30g tank.
After the fish got sick i put one more sponge that has been in the tank for 2 days only, but I guess since mandarin is doing fine i can wait some time until I out him in his hospotal tank.
However the tangs seem to get more and more spots every day and I do not know how long they will handle it without any treatment and if I should just go ahead, clean the 30g tank, put water from the DT, put the 5 days sponge and an airstone, move the fish and start the treatment. I have Salifert Ammonia and Nitrite tests, but I do not have that emergency ammonia badge, they do not sell them here. I also have some Microbe-Lift Special Blend and I've heard people get fast cycle with it.

And these are my concerns / questions:

1.The Mandarin
When I got it a week ago it was bones and skin only. Since we do not have big marine fish stores here, they import stock on demand and you get what arrives. Anyhow, for the past week the Mandarin gained some weight, looks almost double now as I have tons of pods and he's well fed. However so far I haven't noticed him taking any prepared food being frozen or pellets... And shopping live pods here where I live will be impossible, or at least will take a while to find someone who will ship some abroad. So how should I feed him when he is in the hospital tank. I am thinking to try feeding him with frozen cyclops and/or bloodworms once he is in the hospital tank but don't know if he will accept any at all.
1.1. Treating the Mandarin.
Since my second sponge isn't good for cycling the Mandarin's hospital tank yet, ill let the fish be alone in the DT for one more week. People say they are immune to Ich, however that might be urban myth. The DT should be fishless for 8-10 weeks so Mandarin cannot stay there. The question is if to treat it at all in quarantine or not. With the hassle with treating, all the stress on fish and everything else I prefer to be on the safe side and use Hyposalinity on the Mandarin and to avoid future Ich outbreaks. Within 48 hours ill lower the salinity, put RO/DI water every day to handle evaporation and keep it this way for 8 weeks and hope it will start eating frozen/prepared foods and survive. No lights will be turned on for more than a minute while "trying to feed" so I can keep the ph stable.

2.The Diamond watchman goby.
He does not have any Ich signs, yet he will be copper treated with the others. Do gobies have any problems being treated with copper, neon goby included?
Another thing with the diamond goby is that he is sandshifter... and the hospital tank is bare bottom. I plan on putting different size of pvc tubing so he will have "a cave" but still there will be no sand. Will he be able to survive if no sand is present? He is eager eater and every time I'm feeding he is around the top of the tank waiting for food.

3.Copper treatment

3.1 I am a bit confused here. Quite ofthen I read about daily water changes while in QT. However during copper treatment you have to have exact concentration of copper in the water so I suppose wc should not be done. How then the hospital tank will be "safe" with 7 fish in 30g considering no water changes and/or no skimmer. Will the bacteria will be able to handle all the waste?

3.2 Another thing I will do as suggested here - treating 4 weeks with copper instead of 2 (as the instructions suggest). However I've read that the cyst form of Ich is not affected by copper and sometimes it takes up to 8-9 weeks for it to hatch. So even treating 4 weeks with copper I have no guarantee that all ich is killed. I do not have another tank to do tank transfer, what should I do then?

3.3 Cupramine's instructions say that you dose twice within 48 hours to reach 0.5mg/l and then do not dose unless it's needed and leave it for 14 days. Does that mean that If I do 4 weeks treatment I should't dose again at all, just make sure it has the same concentration all the time. How often should I test the water? Why should I test every night before the lights go off? And again - no water changes at all during treatement? What happens if there is ammonia spike and what exact level of ammonia should be a sign for urgent water change, how much water should be changed and if new prepared water is used I suppose corresponding dosage of cupramine should be applied to it, right? Is it possible at all for the cultivated nitrifying bacteria in the sponge filter to cycle the hospital tank during all treatment time?

3.4 How do you feed fish while being in the hospital tang. Should I give them very little, just enough for them not to starve ir order to prevent ammonia spikes?

3.5 How do you desinfect buckets, tubing etc that were in contact with the contaminated water from the DT, will fresh water dip/cleaning be enough or something stonger should be used? Bleech maybe? Is it possible a contaminated water drop to survive enough in a tubing for example so it could contaminate the fish after several weeks?

3.6. I also have PraziPro that I plan on using on fish
3.6.1 Can I use PraziPro together with Cupramine or it is better to wait for the copper treatment to finish and then do two week PraziPro treatement?
3.6.2 Can I use PraziPro in the tank with Mandarin that is under Hyposalinity?

4. Some general questions
4.1 Would the sponge filter being 5 days into the sump be enough to cycle a 30g tank with 7 fish? If not and if I should wait some more time, how fast Ich kills, how much time my fish have? Should I try and use Special Blend considering copper and hyposalinity will be used?
4.2. Considering 4 weeks of copper treatment will be performed and people say that cysts are not affected from copper and some of them may hatch after 7-9 weeks, does that mean that all the copper treatement could be in vain without a tank transfer?
4.3 How often copper, ammonia, nitrites should be tested, once a day, twice?
4.4 How often the PH in the hyposalinity tank should be tested, will the feeding make the ph even more unstable. Should it last 8 weeks if Mandarin only is treated?
4.5 If everything goes well (and im sure it will), from now on I will quarantine every fish for 8-10 weeks. What about snails, corals - is it possible that a sleeping bomb - an ich cyst is somewhere on them? How should they be quarantined then, for 8-10 weeks? What about frozen food, can it introduce a parasite, even if it has been frozen before?

I hope you guys have the patience to read all that and the time to help with an advice. Any other suggestions outside the asked questions are more than welcome as I really want to save my fish.
And please, excuse my English as it is not my native language and there are probably quite a few mistakes, but unfortunately I do not have a spell check here :hammer:

Thanks in advance!
 
Your English is fine, better than many of us here. Please read the stickies! I will be back on Saturday to help if MrTuskfish or others have not already jumped in.
 
Your English is fine, better than many of us here. Please read the stickies! I will be back on Saturday to help if MrTuskfish or others have not already jumped in.

I've read the stickies, browsed some old threads but yet I couldn't find the answers to the most of the things that I am concerned about. I will greatly appreciate some help, even opinions that will make myself a little bit more sure I am doing it the right way. :headwalls:
 
Hello,
Sadly I will have to make my first post on this subforum but I guess it is all my fault. I have Ich.
My tank is 8 month old, 120g, lots of live rock, no corals yet, just few polyps (I am still working on my LED DIY lightning when I have some extra time). Since the first month I have a pair of clowns and a diamond watchman goby and they were doing and still doing fine. I've never quarantined, it is not that I did not want, just the desire of having a fish was huge and I didn't have a QT tank at that time. During the past months, I've suspected that I may have some sort of parasites as I've observed few times the clowns and goby scratching, however it was really seldom and there were no other sypthoms what-so-ever.
So a week ago I decided to get some new fish, Yellow, Kole and Hippo Tangs, Neon Goby and Green Mandarin. Again, I didn't QT, I felt I might be pushing my luck, but I thought that "IF" I have Ich in the tank and even if I QT the new fish for 8 weeks, there was still a big chance of getting ich again once they are put into the DT.

Always Quarantine.

Tangs are ich magnets, i knew that. The first day after they were introduced to their new home the Hippo had 5 white spots... But I've thought, it is due to stress and once he settles down his immune system will fight it and he'll get better.

Ich is not stress caused, it is caused by a parasite, cryptocaryon irritans. Discussed in my sticky on ich.

Well after feeding with extra garlic soaked green and red nori, the tangs were doing great for some days. The spots disappeared the next day, they were eating great, no fast breathing, they were exploring their new home, just happy fish.

As discussed in my ich sticky, cryptocaryon comes and goes. it is not improved by garlic or other immune system build up issues.

Until couple of days ago when the blue tang had white spots again, then in the next 24 hours all tangs were breathing heavily, not eating and hiding. All other fish were ok.

But, of course, the tank is not nor are the fish necessarily ok. Ich does not have to be visible to be present.

Today the tangs look better, do not breath so fast, eat well, still lots of white cysts though, on the neon goby as well. Nothing on the clowns or the diamond goby yet. Absolutely nothing on the Mandarin, I've heard Mandarins are immune to Ich.

They are resistant to ich, but not immune. They are not resistant to velvet.


I guess my plain of good nutritious diet and improving fish immune system is just not working.

Right. As discussed in the stickies, you must remove ich not try to manage it.

Time for active treatment.
I have Cupramine and Sachem Copper tests. Recently I sold all my freshwater fish and now I have a spare 30g tank that I think (and hope) will be ok as treatment tank for: Yellow tang 2", Kole 2", Hippo 1.5", 2 Clowns 1", diamond goby, neon goby.

All fish except the mandarin should/must be treated.

As for the Mandarin, I have a 15g tank for it, I plan on doing Hyposalinity for 8 weeks as I've read it will not handle copper well.

Leave it in the display tank, that is its best chance

So I have "a plan", however there are few problems on the way. First setting up the hospital tanks... Shortly after I got the new fish I got a feeling that things could go bad and I put a sponge from an airstone filter in the sump and it has been there for 5 days now and I am not sure if that time is sufficient to populate enough nitrifying bacteria to cycle the 30g tank.
After the fish got sick i put one more sponge that has been in the tank for 2 days only, but I guess since mandarin is doing fine i can wait some time until I out him in his hospotal tank.
However the tangs seem to get more and more spots every day and I do not know how long they will handle it without any treatment and if I should just go ahead, clean the 30g tank, put water from the DT, put the 5 days sponge and an airstone, move the fish and start the treatment. I have Salifert Ammonia and Nitrite tests, but I do not have that emergency ammonia badge, they do not sell them here. I also have some Microbe-Lift Special Blend and I've heard people get fast cycle with it.

And these are my concerns / questions:

1.The Mandarin
When I got it a week ago it was bones and skin only. Since we do not have big marine fish stores here, they import stock on demand and you get what arrives. Anyhow, for the past week the Mandarin gained some weight, looks almost double now as I have tons of pods and he's well fed. However so far I haven't noticed him taking any prepared food being frozen or pellets... And shopping live pods here where I live will be impossible, or at least will take a while to find someone who will ship some abroad. So how should I feed him when he is in the hospital tank. I am thinking to try feeding him with frozen cyclops and/or bloodworms once he is in the hospital tank but don't know if he will accept any at all.

Many mandarins will eat frozen but it is not enough to sustain them long term. If you have copepods, leave it in the display tank.

1.1. Treating the Mandarin.
Since my second sponge isn't good for cycling the Mandarin's hospital tank yet, ill let the fish be alone in the DT for one more week. People say they are immune to Ich, however that might be urban myth. The DT should be fishless for 8-10 weeks so Mandarin cannot stay there. The question is if to treat it at all in quarantine or not. With the hassle with treating, all the stress on fish and everything else I prefer to be on the safe side and use Hyposalinity on the Mandarin and to avoid future Ich outbreaks. Within 48 hours ill lower the salinity, put RO/DI water every day to handle evaporation and keep it this way for 8 weeks and hope it will start eating frozen/prepared foods and survive. No lights will be turned on for more than a minute while "trying to feed" so I can keep the ph stable.

You need to use a refractometer to keep the SG at 1.008/1.009. Never let it rise above or you restart the clock.


2.The Diamond watchman goby.
He does not have any Ich signs, yet he will be copper treated with the others. Do gobies have any problems being treated with copper, neon goby included?
Another thing with the diamond goby is that he is sandshifter... and the hospital tank is bare bottom. I plan on putting different size of pvc tubing so he will have "a cave" but still there will be no sand. Will he be able to survive if no sand is present? He is eager eater and every time I'm feeding he is around the top of the tank waiting for food.

Should be ok. Sand would make maintaining proper copper level incredibly difficult

3.Copper treatment

3.1 I am a bit confused here. Quite ofthen I read about daily water changes while in QT. However during copper treatment you have to have exact concentration of copper in the water so I suppose wc should not be done. How then the hospital tank will be "safe" with 7 fish in 30g considering no water changes and/or no skimmer. Will the bacteria will be able to handle all the waste?

Of course you must test copper level every night before lights go out. WC water can be adjusted to the proper level of copper

3.2 Another thing I will do as suggested here - treating 4 weeks with copper instead of 2 (as the instructions suggest). However I've read that the cyst form of Ich is not affected by copper and sometimes it takes up to 8-9 weeks for it to hatch. So even treating 4 weeks with copper I have no guarantee that all ich is killed. I do not have another tank to do tank transfer, what should I do then?

Copper is not good for fish, hence our recommendation for 4 weeks treatment, followed by 4-5 weeks observation. Ideal is a combination up to 9 weeks.

3.3 Cupramine's instructions say that you dose twice within 48 hours to reach 0.5mg/l and then do not dose unless it's needed and leave it for 14 days. Does that mean that If I do 4 weeks treatment I should't dose again at all, just make sure it has the same concentration all the time.

That is correct. Test nightly.

How often should I test the water? Why should I test every night before the lights go off?

The critical time is the tomite stage of the life cycle and night time is critical to be correct

And again - no water changes at all during treatement? What happens if there is ammonia spike and what exact level of ammonia should be a sign for urgent water change, how much water should be changed and if new prepared water is used I suppose corresponding dosage of cupramine should be applied to it, right?

That is correct. Have your WC water dosed appropriately with cupramine

Is it possible at all for the cultivated nitrifying bacteria in the sponge filter to cycle the hospital tank during all treatment time?

3.4 How do you feed fish while being in the hospital tang. Should I give them very little, just enough for them not to starve ir order to prevent ammonia spikes?

feed moderately, test for ammonia


3.5 How do you desinfect buckets, tubing etc that were in contact with the contaminated water from the DT, will fresh water dip/cleaning be enough or something stonger should be used? Bleech maybe? Is it possible a contaminated water drop to survive enough in a tubing for example so it could contaminate the fish after several weeks?

Sterilize with bleech. Do NOT contaminate.


3.6. I also have PraziPro that I plan on using on fish

It is my recollection that Prazipro is less effective during copper treatment. I always treat before (in the beginning of QT) then a second treatment one week later

3.6.1 Can I use PraziPro together with Cupramine or it is better to wait for the copper treatment to finish and then do two week PraziPro treatement?
3.6.2 Can I use PraziPro in the tank with Mandarin that is under Hyposalinity?

4. Some general questions
4.1 Would the sponge filter being 5 days into the sump be enough to cycle a 30g tank with 7 fish? If not and if I should wait some more time, how fast Ich kills, how much time my fish have? Should I try and use Special Blend considering copper and hyposalinity will be used?
4.2. Considering 4 weeks of copper treatment will be performed and people say that cysts are not affected from copper and some of them may hatch after 7-9 weeks, does that mean that all the copper treatement could be in vain without a tank transfer?

No. Total of treatment (4 weeks) plus observation (5 weeks) is sufficient.

4.3 How often copper, ammonia, nitrites should be tested, once a day, twice?
4.4 How often the PH in the hyposalinity tank should be tested, will the feeding make the ph even more unstable. Should it last 8 weeks if Mandarin only is treated?
4.5 If everything goes well (and im sure it will), from now on I will quarantine every fish for 8-10 weeks. What about snails, corals - is it possible that a sleeping bomb - an ich cyst is somewhere on them? How should they be quarantined then, for 8-10 weeks?

No. I isolate nonfish for 3 days.

What about frozen food, can it introduce a parasite, even if it has been frozen before?

Anything frozen is fine.

I hope you guys have the patience to read all that and the time to help with an advice. Any other suggestions outside the asked questions are more than welcome as I really want to save my fish.
And please, excuse my English as it is not my native language and there are probably quite a few mistakes, but unfortunately I do not have a spell check here :hammer:

Thanks in advance!
 
Thank you for your imput snorvich, appreciate it. I still have few things I am unsure about.

All fish except the mandarin should/must be treated.

As for the Mandarin, I have a 15g tank for it, I plan on doing Hyposalinity for 8weeks as I've read it will not handle copper well.

Leave it in the display tank, that is its best chance

They are resistant to ich, but not immune. They are not resistant to velvet.

But, of course, the tank is not nor are the fish necessarily ok. Ich does not have to be visible to be present.

I've seen pics of mandarine with spots. I know they are resistant to ich due to their slime coat, however doesn't that mean they may have parasites in the gills where there is no slime?
It would be easy for me to leave the Mandarin in the DT but I am afraid that I may treat the others and leave them in QT for 8-10 weeks and then as soon as I introduce them to the DT to have Ich outbreak again. If that happens I doubt the fish will take another copper treatment without any loss.
I know that moving the Mandarin to Hyposalinity tank and maintain it will be a tough task but I prefer losing it than having the chance of another Ich outbreak.
In that matter I've read something regarding pods that I am not sure if it is true or not. In another forum board someone suggested that pods may be ok with hyposalinity and thrive in it. If that is true then I could just take a small ball of chaeto and put it in the Mandarin tank, even with a piece of dead rock so the little critters can hide/breed there. So I will have a constant food for the fish. The other option is to find a place where I can buy live pods. I heard in a bottle and in the fridge they can last up to a week.

I also have PraziPro that I plan on using on fish

It is my recollection that Prazipro is less effective during copper treatment. I always treat before (in the beginning of QT) then a second treatment one week later

Then I suppose Prazripro treatment after the 4 weeks of copper treatment will be my best shot?

If everything goes well (and im sure it will), from now on I will quarantine every fish for 8-10 weeks. What about snails, corals - is it possible that a sleeping bomb - an ich cyst is somewhere on them? How should they be quarantined then, for 8-10 weeks?

No. I isolate nonfish for 3 days.

I still do not get this. What if there are Ich cysts on the surfaces (corals, rocks, snails, etc) which may hatch within 4 weeks? Isn't doing 3 days quarantene for these is a protential way of introducing Ich into the DT. How about any freshwater dips for corals, or any dips that are used vs coral parasites, will they make the ich cyst to "drop"?

And a question to anyone who has done Cupramine treatment - have you done any water changes during the active 2/4 week treatment? Have you done it because you've decided it is good to change some water or you had some ammonia spikes? I am just curious if I have enough nitrifying bacteria seeded in the sponge filter in order to maintain ammonia free hospital tank, is wc needed at all. Should I regularly vacuum the fish waste off the bottom? What about the dissolved organic matter in the water that will remain there due to no protein skimming? I know that the main goal is to kill the ich but shouldn't we aim to maintain somewhat healthy system since fish will be there for near 3 months. As it will be my fist time having to maintain hospital tanks I am unsure of this.
 
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Thank you for your imput snorvich, appreciate it. I still have few things I am unsure about.



I've seen pics of mandarine with spots. I know they are resistant to ich due to their slime coat, however doesn't that mean they may have parasites in the gills where there is no slime?
It would be easy for me to leave the Mandarin in the DT but I am afraid that I may treat the others and leave them in QT for 8-10 weeks and then as soon as I introduce them to the DT to have Ich outbreak again. If that happens I doubt the fish will take another copper treatment without any loss.
I know that moving the Mandarin to Hyposalinity tank and maintain it will be a tough task but I prefer losing it than having the chance of another Ich outbreak.

I understand. I agree.

In that matter I've read something regarding pods that I am not sure if it is true or not. In another forum board someone suggested that pods may be ok with hyposalinity and thrive in it. If that is true then I could just take a small ball of chaeto and put it in the Mandarin tank, even with a piece of dead rock so the little critters can hide/breed there. So I will have a constant food for the fish. The other option is to find a place where I can buy live pods. I heard in a bottle and in the fridge they can last up to a week.

I do not know if copepods can survive hypo. Hopefully they will. I have had good experiences with mandarins eating Nutramar Ova.



Then I suppose Prazripro treatment after the 4 weeks of copper treatment will be my best shot?

Yes. Two treatments a week apart



I still do not get this. What if there are Ich cysts on the surfaces (corals, rocks, snails, etc) which may hatch within 4 weeks? Isn't doing 3 days quarantene for these is a protential way of introducing Ich into the DT. How about any freshwater dips for corals, or any dips that are used vs coral parasites, will they make the ich cyst to "drop"?

The odds of introducing ich via corals is very, very low if you isolate for 3 days. I dip all corals in Revive or the equivalent. Fresh water dips do not kill ich cysts and can harm your coral.

And a question to anyone who has done Cupramine treatment - have you done any water changes during the active 2/4 week

Despite seachem recommending two weeks of treatment, I recommend four weeks followed by 4-5 weeks of observation.
treatment? Have you done it because you've decided it is good to change some water or you had some ammonia spikes? I am just curious if I have enough nitrifying bacteria seeded in the sponge filter in order to maintain ammonia free hospital tank, is wc needed at all. Should I regularly vacuum the fish waste off the bottom? What about the dissolved organic matter in the water that will remain there due to no protein skimming? I know that the main goal is to kill the ich but shouldn't we aim to maintain somewhat healthy system since fish will be there for near 3 months. As it will be my fist time having to maintain hospital tanks I am unsure of this.

Water changes with water pretreated with copper at the therapeutic dose will be required and are desirable.
 
I just wanted to say this thread was extremely helpful for me, as I had almost the exact questions myself. Thank you so much for all comments!
 
This thread is quite a bit outdated.
For example I doubt Steve still recommends to isolate (= quarantine) inverts or corals for only 3 days.
 
i'll follow along with this one... the inverts and coral qt / treatment are my main concern at the moment... getting ich free with hypo / copper for the fish is one thing... staying ich free when adding inverts and coral is another... i'm going for my second round of battle :-/
 
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