ICK in a 280g fowlr

[gsiegel]

I have a 280g fowlr and artificial reef tank.

I checked the tank last night to find some of the fish with ick. I have done some reading on the other posts in this forum and the more I look the more different opinions out there. Is it possible to Treat the DT in lieu of having to try to remove the fish to a a 36g qt that is not big enough to house all the fish that are infected? Plus if it is in the DT I want to be able to treat what is infected in that tank if possible. Thanks.

 

[HumbleFish]

If there are no corals/inverts present, you have the following options: hypo, copper, chloroquine phosphate. They each have their pros & cons. Hypo is the least invasive, but it can be difficult to administer and may kill the bacteria in your LR. (I would search for threads "hypo DT".) Copper is the standard for eradicating Ich, but if you have actual rock in the tank (I don't know what "artificial reef tank" means exactly) it will absorb some of the copper and you will have to keep dosing to achieve a stable copper level. Also, I'm not sure all of your angels (esp the Flame) would handle copper so well. Which brings me to CP; probably your best option IMO. Difficult to get (and expensive), but I think it would work for you. It would just kill all of your algae. I would read more about it and post any questions here.

 

[gone fishin]

There are only three proven ways to be rid of ich. Tank transfer method,copper, hyposalinty(hard to pull of IMO). they all require the use of a QT. While treating the Dt tank must remain fallow for 11 weeks to kill off remaining ich in the DT.

There are no reefsafe ways to remove ich. Garlic,freshwater dips, UV, kick ich will not eliminate it.

If your tank is not big enough look into a large tote or two to use.

 

[Lsufiregal]

Do not treat your display with copper. The live rock, your artificial coral, and possibly even the tank WILL absorb copper as pp said. The real problem is when the copper begins to leach back out, you can't control the level in your tank and it can kill your fish. Plus after treating it with copper you could never house inverts or coral in it safely, plus your live rock will never be invert or coral safe again.

Hypo will kill your bacteria which can cause your tank to cycle. The only safe way to treat your display and eradicate ich is leave it fish less for 8 weeks. Some people swear by a UV filter and good water quality and nutrition so you could try that, but ich could still be in the system waiting for a fish to stress or weaken so it can proliferate. If you do this then you could treat just the severely infected in a hospital tank.

 

[gone fishin]

Do not treat your display with copper. The live rock, your artificial coral, and possibly even the tank WILL absorb copper as pp said. The real problem is when the copper begins to leach back out, you can't control the level in your tank and it can kill your fish. Plus after treating it with copper you could never house inverts or coral in it safely, plus your live rock will never be invert or coral safe again.

Hypo will kill your bacteria which can cause your tank to cycle. The only safe way to treat your display and eradicate ich is leave it fish less for 8 weeks. Some people swear by a UV filter and good water quality and nutrition so you could try that, but ich could still be in the system waiting for a fish to stress or weaken so it can proliferate. If you do this then you could treat just the severely infected in a hospital tank.

Only treating some will almost assuredly allow for another ich outbreak down the road. Treat all fish once and be done with it or learn to live with it which is not an option I would take.

The use of good QT protocol will prevent the 99% of all parasites and diseases we encounter. I say 99% because I never say never.

 

[gsiegel]

Thanks for the responses. Thoughts about chloroquine phosphate as per the first post?

I dont really see anything now except a few spots on the tusk but although not infested, they were more visible last night under the bluelights.

 

[MrTuskfish]

Thanks for the responses. Thoughts about chloroquine phosphate as per the first post?

I dont really see anything now except a few spots on the tusk but although not infested, they were more visible last night under the bluelights.

IMO, one visible ich spot IS an infestation. How many don't you see?

I'm pretty stubborn on this issue. Copper or tank-transfer are the only two methods Id use now. Hypo just seems to be failing too often; I think error by the owner may be the main reason.
But I'm beginning to see that CP probably works too. I've only used it once (a few months ago), on someone else' s fish, and so far, so good . One good result doesn't prove anything; But several folks on RC use and swear by it and these are all experienced and knowledgeably people who I'd go to for help anytime. I will continue to use copper with all my new fish; simply because I've had great success with Cupramine for years and know almost before the fish does,that something is wrong.
No, CP cant be used in a reef and don't mistake it for Quinine Sulfate, a similar drug that (IMO) has a couple of serious flaws.

 

[coral_lagoon]

Since it's just a artificial reef with LR. I would just treat the DT with Cupramine.Looking at your stock list. It would be a headache trying to treat all of those fish in a QT. You would also need a couple of large QT tanks to house those fish. Then letting the tank go fallow for 12 weeks is another pain in the butt,and doesn't make any sense if you do not have any corals..

I have a 125 fish only system at my business. It has crush coral substrate,and 80lbs of marco rocks. CPR wet/dry filter,and a skimmer. The tank is 10 years old. I treated with Cupramine,and it was easy and quick. Even with the substrate, rocks. I did not have any problems maintaining the copper levels. After the treatment I did a 50% water change,and ran some good carbon from Bulk Reef Supply. After about a week I did a few tests the water with Seachem copper test,and no signs of any copper. The fish I still have today even a bonded pair Sebae Clownfish that I have for 9 years. They still spawn ..

 

[Mrscribbled]

I thought you run a strict quarantine?


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[coral_lagoon]

I thought you run a strict quarantine?


Posted from ReefCentral.com App for Android

I do,but not at that time. The tank at my business was serviced by my LFS. He's a good friend of mine,and the ick was introduced by a Lyretail Anthia he gave me ..

 

[Lsufiregal]

Only treating some will almost assuredly allow for another ich outbreak down the road. Treat all fish once and be done with it or learn to live with it which is not an option I would take.

The use of good QT protocol will prevent the 99% of all parasites and diseases we encounter. I say 99% because I never say never.

Yes, but like I said if he decided to go the UV route and just live with the ich in his tank he could still treat any severely infected fish to avoid loss.

 

[HumbleFish]

Yes, but like I said if he decided to go the UV route and just live with the ich in his tank he could still treat any severely infected fish to avoid loss.

Until Murphy's law kicks in. :spin1:

 

[gone fishin]

Yes, but like I said if he decided to go the UV route and just live with the ich in his tank he could still treat any severely infected fish to avoid loss.

UV IMO is next useless when it comes to ich. In order for it to be effective the ich must flow through the UV. Then it must have enough contact time to do anything. And that is assuming the UV unit is funtioning at peak conditions. That is just to many if's for me to gamble on my fishs health.

I have read many threads where people found enough totes,tanks or trash cans to treat all of their fish and many others where people just try to survive outbreaks. But the bottomline for me is a QT regimen to prevent my DT from being infected in the firstplace. A lesson learned the hardway a few years ago.

 

[Lsufiregal]

I agree with you about UV not being sufficient, but it is an option if you are willing to live with a time bomb in your tank. I QT. I have used Hypo with success. I think you are right about the failures being user error. It is hard to maintain specific gravity, but it can be done. It is a pain to maintain pH at that specific gravity too, but I followed the guide to the letter and my fish is happily on display.

 

[gone fishin]

I do agree it is an option like you said with a time bomb.