Idea help with doors and covering 'RocketEngineers' stand design.

[MidwesternTexan]

Hi all,

I have built a real nice stand for my 180 using this RocketEngineers design form his stand build thread.

I'm kind of at a standstill b/c I'm trying to decide on the doors and how I'll build them.
I think I want to go with plywood sides and front, and possibly make the doors out of plywood also.

I've looked at 'face framing' sites, etc.

Yes, I have researched it. Many a thread, website, etc.

If you've done it, or have a link to a nice site about it, that would be great.

I'll be building a canopy too, but I think I can wing that one OK.

Just help with an idea/plan for skinning the stand frame and incorporating the doors.

TIA

 

[Donw]

I would not use plywood alone for doors. A 5 piece door is easy with either a table saw (shaker cope and stick) or router table (more options for cope and stick). Flat slab doors are a different animal all together. If you want a flat slab stye door I can show you how to make them properly so they wont warp but they are more involved than 5 piece doors.

Don

 

[MidwesternTexan]

I would not use plywood alone for doors. A 5 piece door is easy with either a table saw (shaker cope and stick) or router table (more options for cope and stick). Flat slab doors are a different animal all together. If you want a flat slab stye door I can show you how to make them properly so they wont warp but they are more involved than 5 piece doors.

Don

5 piece doors?

As in Borders around (4), and the flat door-(1)=5?

I'll have to google that one.

OK, looked it up, got it now.
So the plywood cound be set in the frame or groove of the stiles and top and bottom rails, right?

 

[Ted_C]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20570817&postcount=23

This thread is how I built my doors. 1x3's with a groove routed in it and 1/2" plywood with a tongue routed into it.

 

[Donw]

Here ya go. Anatomy of a 5 piece door.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

Thanks, I have some good ideas now

 

[RocketEngineer]

Given that I don't have my own table saw, I used a different technique to make simple panels for my hood. The same technique can be used to make doors.

It has been a busy weekend building the panels for the hood. It started with drilling the pocket screws and cutting the biscuit slots into all the pieces.

The key to this whole thing is labels. You will note the panels are numbered and each corner is lettered. In my case I intentionally changed up the lettering between each of the same size panels to help me keep it straight.

With everything cut I used my pipe clamps to glue the short ends onto the center panel.

Once that was dry I glued the long boards on.

With that in place, I installed the pocket screws to secure everything together. This is what the end result is:

If I were to do it again, I would have made the core and ends slightly wider than I needed. Once I had glued the ends onto the core, that assembly would be run through the table saw to get everything perfectly flush and down to the final size. Once the second pair of boards were attached, the whole thing would get a series of final trim passes to true up the ends.

This technique isn't as "professional" as others but it worked just fine for my tank. It doesn't rely on exacting techniques or setups. I did make use a friend's table saw one evening after work but otherwise did everything with a borrowed biscuit joiner and a power drill.

HTH,

 

[Donw]

Anatomy of a slab door. Exactly the same as the 5 piece door I posted above with the exception of the center panel and garnish. (veneer) Hinges are mounted in hardwood, frame keeps mdf flat and no edge banding needed if frame is same species as veneer. More work if you dont have a shop full of tools.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

Thanks again ya'll.
Life is in the way right now, Family Y camp for L-day weekend, work, etc.

I currently have my stand frame built, and it's in my parking space in the garage.
I like to park my truck there so I want to hurry up and get this finished and in the house.



I may be adding 2x4 center supports as well.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

It wouldn't let me Edit my own post,

Anyways,

the stand frame you see is all reclaimed, reused lumber.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

RE,

Thanks on the great thread you have about the design.

My boards on my top frame are MEASURING 1.5" x 7",
And you may have seen in the picture, I put the 2x4's such that the top rails are supported 5" in from each end. Sol that the unsupprted front and back rail is 62.25"

To I need a center brace?

It will be a fully stocked 180g DT

 

[sleepydoc]

If you want an easier option, Home Despot and Lowes can order doors in various styles/colors/sizes. Otherwise, the designs listed above are pretty easy if you have the skills & equipment.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

If you want an easier option, Home Despot and Lowes can order doors in various styles/colors/sizes. Otherwise, the designs listed above are pretty easy if you have the skills & equipment.

SleepyDoc? Are you an Anesthesiologist?

Thanks for the tip.

I think I'd really like to 'make' my doors though.

The design I'm leaning towards was PM'd to me, not posted here.
It uses 'shoe' molding to cover the 4 sides, puddy and stain.
Just like those suggested,- his also looked great.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

RoicketEngineer?

? on post #11?

Thanks

 

[MidwesternTexan]

Bumpo

 

[tanzer16]

I used pocket hole jig to make frame and then used pine wainscoting boards for center. I used router to cut recess for wainscoting boards, then covered back with thin piece of birch plywood to secure everything together.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

Hello again,

I really like this method of covering/doors for the stand frame.

But, I don't see how this keeps it from 'Racking' though.
It's sturdy now, maybe I could some beefy corner braces too?

 

[MidwesternTexan]

Bump, Hello, the post above and ?'s,
If you can, please give me some input.

 

[sandyland]

Which part are you worried about, the stand or the doors?

 

[MidwesternTexan]

Which part are you worried about, the stand or the doors?

Thanks for the reply.
No worries at all.
My concern was that finishing the stand this way doesn't provide the added 'anti-racking' support that covering the corners would to some degree.

As I said, I may do it the way the builder did in my added pic, and reinforce some of the corners on the inside as well.
The other option is to put ply on and put doors over the ply, with trim, etc.