acroholicreefer
New member
I have been successfully running sps system for nearly 6 years. The acros have always been healthy with bright colors and good polyp extension. There are a few rules that I have always followed.
1) Skim Well
2) Use a Kalk Reactor with float valve, dosing pump, and pH monitor
3) Heating elements with temperature controller
4) Turbulent Flow
5) MH Lighting
To be honest, I rarely test for any of my parameters besides salinity and alkalinity. The mixing pump to the kalk reactor got clogged and I didn't realize it for a while. The alkalinity dropped down to 5 dKH. Still, the acros look as good as they have in the past, maybe even better. Polyp extension as really good too. Well, 5 dKH just bothered me. I don't know why but I decided to hook up my 2 part dosing pump that I rarely have ever used and dose some soda ash. If it wasn't broken than why did I try to fix it. The apex was set to turn the pump on for 5 minutes every hour and I fixed the kalk reactor mixing pump.
My alkalinity shot up to 15 dKH. I noticed this when I came home from work and my pH was 8.6. All of my birdsnest looked horrible but my acros and montis looked a little bit stressed. Polyp extension was decreased but still extended. I decided to take the kalk reactor off line and turn the dosing pump on. Today (two days later) I came home and saw tissue loss for the first time on a few wild corals that I have cultured for about a year. They all had dull colors anyways so I don't mind loosing them. The alkalinity is now 13.5 and I'm just going to let it lower slowly and on it's own. All of my true aquacultured acros look fine with decent polyp extension and those are the ones I care about.
Luckily, I feel like I am over the worst of things and they will get better. You live and you learn. I learned that since I have never dosed soda ash before, I'm not going to do it anymore. Also, just goes to justify how much more hardier true aquacultured corals are vs cultured wild corals.
1) Skim Well
2) Use a Kalk Reactor with float valve, dosing pump, and pH monitor
3) Heating elements with temperature controller
4) Turbulent Flow
5) MH Lighting
To be honest, I rarely test for any of my parameters besides salinity and alkalinity. The mixing pump to the kalk reactor got clogged and I didn't realize it for a while. The alkalinity dropped down to 5 dKH. Still, the acros look as good as they have in the past, maybe even better. Polyp extension as really good too. Well, 5 dKH just bothered me. I don't know why but I decided to hook up my 2 part dosing pump that I rarely have ever used and dose some soda ash. If it wasn't broken than why did I try to fix it. The apex was set to turn the pump on for 5 minutes every hour and I fixed the kalk reactor mixing pump.
My alkalinity shot up to 15 dKH. I noticed this when I came home from work and my pH was 8.6. All of my birdsnest looked horrible but my acros and montis looked a little bit stressed. Polyp extension was decreased but still extended. I decided to take the kalk reactor off line and turn the dosing pump on. Today (two days later) I came home and saw tissue loss for the first time on a few wild corals that I have cultured for about a year. They all had dull colors anyways so I don't mind loosing them. The alkalinity is now 13.5 and I'm just going to let it lower slowly and on it's own. All of my true aquacultured acros look fine with decent polyp extension and those are the ones I care about.
Luckily, I feel like I am over the worst of things and they will get better. You live and you learn. I learned that since I have never dosed soda ash before, I'm not going to do it anymore. Also, just goes to justify how much more hardier true aquacultured corals are vs cultured wild corals.