Don't panic! New tanks, and being caught to be put in the a new tank, is stressful for fish. It is not uncommon for them to stop eating at first, particularly if they are put in a hospital tank with only pvc to hide. It is a very strange and usually scary change for fish. Fish don't usually like change. If eating well prior to the move, your fish should be fine for ~2 weeks.
The bio-wheel filter was a good choice. I use them on my hospital tanks as I think they help reduce ammonia faster than other HOB filters. They don't do this well until they have an established bacterial population though, which can take a while.
You do need to know what levels you are dealing with, the LFS will not be adequate for testing unless they are very good (most are the opposite) and you are going there twice a day. Ammonia is toxic to fish VERY quickly and it needs to be checked often and dealt with immediately. That's why I like the ammonia badges, you don't have to test for ammonia twice a day if you have one. Seachem makes the one that I like, I've seen them at Petsmart, but buy mine here:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4387
You do also need to test for copper yourself. I test mine twice daily for the whole treatment, but Cupramine is stable enough in bare bones setups that testing that often is probably overkill. I would test at least every other day though. Use the Seachem copper test kit or the Salifert. When you buy an ammonia test kit, you MUST buy one that tests for 'free ammonia' and not just 'total ammonia'. The amine group that Cupramine is bound to will give you a false positive for ammonia on test kits that only read total ammonia. The seachem badges read correctly.
If I were you I would do the following:
1. Get an ammonia alert badge in the tank.
2. Get a copper test kit and an ammonia test kit.
3. Test your water, test again if you think the results are off.
If your fish are still nervous today, make sure there are enough hiding places of the appropriate size for all your fish.
