I'm in deep PLEASE HELP!!!!!

algundo -

For what its worth, if you are honest and up front with the guy and you commit to making it right, and he's still is a jerk about it - I don't think you want him as a client.

Good Luck!
 
I wouldn't use 200 unless you think it's really deep but that's your call. You can always start with 800 and then work your way up and see if that was the right one to start out with. If starting with 800 doesn't do it then try 600 and then 4 and then 2 but that's up to you. The coarser you start with the deeper the initial scratching. I have always started with 800 and then go up from there and has worked well.
 
2000 would be fine then if they are very shallow and hardly noticeable with your fingernail.
 
I work for a body shop supply store. The finest grit sandpaper that 3m makes is 3000 grit. The part numer is 02075. It is a "trizac". I don't know if there are any product used to manufacure the paper that would be toxic to the fish. The sanding sponges are quite coarse and would make the scratches worse.
 
Algundo,
I tried it this morning. I got 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit from the local autobody supply store. In a 5 gallon bucket of saltwater I sanded a piece of 3" by 6" 1/4" extruded acyrilic. I started with 1000 until the work piece looked uniform, then to 1500 and 2000. All while submersed in salt water.
I have to admit it doesn't look to bad. I stuck it in my nano-cube and looked at through the glass. It was definetly hazy compared to the glass and another piece of unsanded acyrilic, much better than I thought it would be.
After this I sanded a second piece of the same size with some freshwater on my bench, I used the same grits as above. I then used the three step process with the 3 Novus acyrilic polishes. There is literally no difference between the unsanded acrylic and the sanded and polished acyrilic.
When my wife gets back with our camera I will try and post some photos.
In summary you probably could get away with sanding the tank with water in and not polishing, if you sand the entire tank. It would not look as good as it did when it was new though. Someone mentioned using 12K grit sandpaper, ifyou could get ahold of that it probably would come out very good.
Hope that helps.

Matt
 
The thing with using micro-mesh is that you have to use each grade in succession. Don't skip any and do NOT sand in circles. It should be done in a cross-hatch pattern. Even though as you get up above 8000 grit it doesn't seem like it is doing anything, it is. 12000 grit almost feels like a rubbery type surface, but it is removing material (you'll see a white milky paste form as you are sanding). I don't suggest going from 2000 to 12000 as that is a huge jump and you would be sanding with 12000 forever trying to finish the job. :)
 
Thanks a lot guys, I really appreciate the info.

I am also talking with Marc Daniels, who is a professional in the acrylic field and works for public aquariums like Monteray Bay. He was refered to me by another RC member, and to him I am grateful. The micro-mesh seems to be a good method as well as sanding. Marc said he has a 100% proven method of removing scratches without draining the tank. I will report back with his method once I speak with him, that is if it's okay with him.

Thanks agian to all who have helped me get out of this bind
 
This is great to hear. The post that fade2black made is very important. To much pressure and distortion will be seen. Take your time, and take some pictures.

Good luck!
 
The first thing I would do is call the professionals that do the major aquariums.

Try Reynolds Polymer in Grand Junction Colorado. They have a scratch kit that I am pretty sure you can buy.

Talk to someone in the shop or try their construction divison www.icm-corp.com

Or Nippura USA in North Carolina. Seach the web and you should be able to get the phone numbers.

Good Luck

Dave
 
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