Im new in the SCUBA hobby.

dahenley

New member
Im taking my SSI Openwater certification while im in school this semester. (im already hooked, and were just now snorkeling........)
i have a
seaquest sidedraft flex snorkel.
mares X vision mask. (i have a wide head, and it fit the best. i am a college student, and first time water explorer, so i didnt get the liquid skin one....)
i also have a pair of deep sea booties.

is there any certain kind of fin to look for?
i don't know how much diving im going to do, but i want to keep going after i finish my course. (we weren't required to get our own masks and snorkels, but i didn't fell good about using the provided ones. the ones that 3 classes a day uses, and no telling how many semesters have used.....)

i am sure the further i get in the hobby, the more i will want to get. any suggestions in this department would be appreciated as well.

im 6'7" tall
280 ish.... maybe a little more. just depends on the scale :eek2::):eek2::)
my foot is a size 14-15


anything would be great. help, opinions, suggestions. ect.
 
im also looking for a bag. i dont have much stuff, but i do take it to and from school. (my stuff doesn't fit in my school bag with my books. not to mention the moisture.) i don't need a large bag, as i dont have a bottle or any big stuff, but i will probably end up with fins and my small stuff. i dont want a rolling bag though. just a normal bak-pak of duffel style will be fine.

thanks. (any kind of comments on this will be appreciated as well.)
 
Hey, congrats on the decision to take up the "sport!" :)

There's a ton of different schools of thought regarding the gear that you're looking at... Asking what people recommend is a bit like asking people what the best religion is. Passions run deep, and you'll find that it can really start a war between friends! Crazy sometimes. :)

One philosophy about gear that I like to "preach" is the LACK of gear. Divers (especially new ones) tend to want to buy all kinds of new gear right off the bat - the problem is, until you've done a bunch of diving, it's difficult to even KNOW what the "right" kind of gear is. So I recommend holding off on gear purchases as long as you possibly can and renting as long as possible and trying as many different things as possible.

Scuba industry marketing tends to get in the way, too... For example, if you pick up any scuba diving magazine, they'll grade fins according to which is fastest or easiest to kick... And the top-rated fins will tout those features in their advertisements. Yet, underwater, a diver's mentality is constantly to "slow down," not "speed up." Divers tend to find that "kicking effort" is much less of a concern than the fin's resistance to be "overkicked," especially for big guys like you and me. Those fins that are super-easy to kick (and marketed as the "least effort" fins) tend to fold up like noodles when you try to put any power into them, and are the wrong fin if you have any muscle mass in your legs that you'd like to use to power yourself in the water.

My personal preference when it comes to fins are short, stiff, wide fins like ScubaPro's Jet fins. With your large foot, you might want to consider a set of IDI "Turtle" fins, which are pretty much the antithesis of today's soft, long, narrow, colorful, soft plastic fins. With no plastic on the Turtles, they will look new for a much longer time, and with very little flex they will allow you to power through the water with a lot of torque. The short, wide blade will give you amazing control, and you'll be able to easily control the fin tips, the key to many advanced fin kicks. Long, floppy fins simply can't offer these advantages, and those divers who use them often find themselves accidentally kicking their buddies, kicking the reef, and silting up confined areas.

...But you'll never see any of these things touted in marketing. :)

Fins like the Turtles and the more common (but probably a bit on the small side for your foot) ScubaPro Jet Fins are usually the choice for advanced and "technical" divers that have been diving a long time... Mostly because of the precision that they offer and because they can withstand years of abuse and look new with a shot of Armor-All. :) They also don't go "out of style" in a matter of a year or two like many fins in the mainstream market today.

Deep Sea actually makes a nice bootie that fits well in a set of Turtles. Another option would be ScubaPro's "Delta" bootie. Both booties have a rubberized instep that holds a fin nicely. I recommend replacing all fin straps with spring heels - they make life much simpler and will last for years and years without breaking at the most inopportune time like OEM straps do.

With regard to a duffel... There's dozens on the market, but what I own (I have several) is exactly what you describe - Akona's Deluxe Mesh Backpack ( http://www.leisurepro.com/Prod/Cate...ck/DescSort_0/Filter_1=342/AKNBDMB.html?Hit=1 ). It's actually a plain round duffel with a drawstring at one end (and a lengthwise zipper). There's two large, padded, anatomically correct straps sewn the length of the duffel, so it wears great as a backpack. There's also a large outer pocket for your mask, slate, camera or whatever, and a "dryish" pocket inside that will keep your towel "drier." :) The bag is inexpensive, well-built, easy to clean, and doesn't waste time with wheels and plastic panels that just get in the way when you want to fold the bag up and stuff it in a closet.

Good luck with your classes. :)
 
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Thats some great information.
its actually the kind of info that i was looking for.

i dont plan on getting any real expensive equipment ( tanks, regulators, BC's ....) untill after i have become a avid diver. i figured a good pair of fins, mask, snorkel, booties would get me going for now. (plus i needed a bag, and the one suggested looks good. the thing i dont like about looking for bags, is they dont always mention the different compartments or show anything. half of them look like sealed bags with no vent. thanks for the in site. it looks like what i was actually looking for.)
 
That's great! :)

Yeah, the thing about "all different compartments" is totally overrated. What happens when they do that is that there's no one, big compartment for you to put everything in, which is exactly the tendency at the dive site... To open one zipper and put everything in. Who wants to mess around with a billtion little compartments with a billion little zippers?

The mesh is great. Most people I know take the whole bag, with gear and all, and dunk it in a rinse tank for easy rinsing. You can't do this without the mesh, and you can't do this with wheels and plastic panels.

You're right on with the "simple" mentality of minimal, "personal-only" gear. You'll want to purchase a wetsuit, too, to add to your personal stuff, eventually. 3mm suits are the most common, and are generally pretty affordable by comparison of thicker suits. I'm a big fan of O'Neill "Sector" dive suits, available at Austin's Diving Center in Miami, FL. Talk to Dennis there. O'Neills work nicely for your size, by the way.

...And don't spend too much on the snorkel. If you are diving (not snorkeling), it'll be the first thing that you ditch or leave at home. :) What the instructors don't tell you is that they don't wear one outside their classes (they HAVE to for their classes), and I doubt you will either.

Fins, mask, booties, wetsuit... And a good, solid, mesh bag with one big compartment. That's a great start.

Now focus on your C-card and things will come together for you pretty well. :)
 
I'll add by stating that SeaJay and I are friends and he's dead on... I know this because when we met here a year ago he tried in vain to tell me the very same things that he just told you, though I didn't listen!

I've since sold everything that I originally bought, and bought all new equipment that is designed more specifically for the type of diving that I ultimately want to be doing. The beauty is that this gear will also function perfectly for EVERY type of diving that I'll ever be doing, unlike the stuff that I initially paid too much money for.

LOOK - LISTEN - LEARN

-Tim
 
LOOK - LISTEN - LEARN

-Tim

thats what im trying to do for now. (i dont want to rush. like mentioned. When you rush and buy everything, and it usually doesnt last....) i want it to last:rollface:

thanks for that info.

as for the pockets, i was just thinking a separate pocket for the goggles and small stuff so it doesnt get crushed/deformed if left in a big compartment for the rest.
if thats plausible or a good thing or not?
 
Don't get me wrong, I bought high quality gear the first time that would last far longer than me, but what I didn't realize was that it wouldn't work for the type of diving I want to be doing... That whole "you don't know, what you don't know!" thing bit me in the butt.

You see; my goal is FULL CAVE, but when I bought a jacket style BC, Titanium regs that are no good beyond 40% O2, and highly rated & marketed "fluffy fins", I didn't know any better. Sadly however, at the time I was convinced that I knew more about my needs than others that are far smarter than me. I DIDN'T!

I will say that I didn't really lose because of the way in which I sold my existing gear, and what I have invested in the replacement stuff, which should likely serve me well for a lifetime of diving. By the middle of next week I'll have 2 complete rigs built up, each being configured the same, though 1 for double tanks and 1 for singles. While that was absolutely not a necessary thing to do since it takes less than 5 minutes to swap tanks & wings, my primary motivation is to be able to get my wife diving.

She doesn't yet know that I can swap them back and forth, and just the other day actually commented that *if* she does like her SNUBA dive in Key West and her Adventure Dive in the Caymans when we take a cruise in March, that she would just be dissappointed that she won't have any gear to use anyway... WRONG, I'll dive the doubles and give her the singles rig! ;)

It's kinda like when I began collecting AR15's... I had numerous uppers and lowers as well as a matched pair (includiing serial; #'s) of custom built CMP rifles. Well, one day she actually started figuring out what was what, and that everything was fully modular and interchangeable. That was the day that she asked for the combo MY vault, opened it up, put together what she wanted, and informed me that it was hers! Then like now, that was the deep dark plan all along, because she became an active shooter and was actually a better pistoll shooter than me. It got to the point that I could no longer afford to let her go to gun shows with me, because she had expensive tastes and wanted the best of the best! :D

My lovely wife will get the brand new Halcyon Infinity as soon as she becomes certified, and so there are no "learning curve" issues to contend with, I will make certain that she learns to dive in this rig rather than stuffed into a jacket style BC like I did. ;)

-Tim
 
thats what im trying to do for now. (i dont want to rush. like mentioned. When you rush and buy everything, and it usually doesnt last....) i want it to last:rollface:

thanks for that info.

as for the pockets, i was just thinking a separate pocket for the goggles and small stuff so it doesnt get crushed/deformed if left in a big compartment for the rest.
if thats plausible or a good thing or not?

You've got a great thought process going on, dahenley... Slow and steady, simplicity is king. :)

It's easy to get caught up in all of the cool, neat-looking gear in the dive shop. But rest assured, the best things they sell there are C-cards and tank fills. Diving, after all, is about DIVING, not GEAR. If it was about GEAR, they'd call it GEAR and not DIVING. :)

Any piece of gear that detracts from diving is the opposite of what you want. For example, if you have the opportunity to spend a few bucks and go diving or a few bucks for a new mask, opt for diving. If you get a tax refund and want to consider spending it on a new BC, opt instead to take a road trip to a local dive spot and go diving. The gear will always wait. :)

About your question regarding the "goggles" (they're called "masks," by the way - "goggles" are what swimmers wear, and exclude the nose. If it includes the nose, call it a "mask." You'll look like s seasoned pro that way): Newbies have a special "mask case" that they put in their dive bag to store the mask in... Advanced divers use the mask case that came with the mask itself (it comes with one). Experienced divers stuff their mask into their fins the moment they get out of the water so it can't get kicked off of the dock... And there it lives when it's not being worn.

You'll save money, time, effort, and carrying extra gear if you short-circuit the system and go ahead and just stuff your mask into your fins whenever it's not on your face. :)

...And of course, fins go in the big, main compartment of your duffel bag. :)

By the way... Another "freebie" tip for you... When you buy a new mask, scrub the inside of it with toothpaste before using it - it'll keep the glass from fogging easily, and from then on a little spit works great for keeping the mask clear. If you do it this way, you won't have to carry a little bottle of anti-fog around with you, and you'll never run out of spit. :)

I wrote an article about it several years ago: http://www.deepsouthdivers.org/old/homemask.html
 
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i actually grew up spitting in masks. (im from the south my self)
that is actually what i always though was right until i saw this fancy product. anti-fog. (i was contemplating weather or not it was spit in a bottle. not really, but it did cross my mind) our instructor uses lemon scented joy soap. just a dot in both lenses and a quick rinse and he is in the pool. he says its cheaper and smells better. what is your opinion on that?

my mask did come with a case, and i keep it in there just for protection.

for cleaning your equipment, (masks and such) do you just rinse everything in fresh water and throw it back in the bag? and do the same thing if diving in a chlorine pool?
 
Absolutely! These are great questions, by the way. :)

Yeah, the chlorine's actually worse for your gear than salt water is. It weakens fabrics and adhesives and bleaches gear. Frankly, gear bleaches anyway with sun and use, but chlorine definitely accelerates the process dramatically.

Salt, on the other hand, crystalizes as it dries (all natural water has dissolved salts - just more or less of it - so don't ever be fooled by your local lake or quarry that you can get away with not rinsing gear just 'cause it doesn't taste salty) and damages surfaces on a microscopic level either through corrosion or abrasion. Enough damage, and O-rings no longer seal. Dried salts prematurely wear zippers, folds, fabrics, mechanisms, seals, etc., too. In all, it's bad juju for life support systems. The best line of defense against these problems is to rinse gear as soon as possible, preferrably before anything begins to dry (and therefore crystalize).

After rinsing, gear should be allowed to dry properly - masks, fins and bags should be laid out or hung up to dry. Wesuits should be rinsed with a garden hose (under pressure) and hung up to dry. Once it's all dry, you can put it back in the bag.

In some drier environments, you can simply put everything away wet - then hang the bag up, full of gear. The idea is that you want everything to dry out between dives and not get mildewed.

That said, I can tell you that since I dive every day (or nearly every day), I don't bother drying any of my gear... It simply gets wet it's first day in service, and doesn't ever dry out again until it hits the dump - usually only a few months later. :) But if you plan on going weeks or months between dives, you should probably let it all dry correctly. A garage, screened porch or spare bathroom works well. Avoid direct sunlight - it'll bleach fabrics and turn silicone masks and fins yellow and brittle. Ozone is also an enemy of silicone and neoprene, so avoid enclosed places with constantly-running electric motors like those on refrigerators, clothes dryers, freezers, etc. (Many people have these in their garage or basement, so avoid leaving gear in there indefinitely.)

I don't recommend using any solution for keeping your mask clear other than saliva. Saliva always works, is free, and you'll never run out of it or have to go through your gear bag to find it. Believe me, 100 dives into the sport, you'll have enough gear to carry around - you won't need yet another bottle. :)

Subscribe to some dive magazines. Enjoy some scuba music: http://www.deepsouthdivers.org/old/homesongs.html . Continue to get online and look for answers. See some scuba-related movies. Recognize that in scuba, "old school" is equally important as "new technology," and be equally cautious of adopting either. Keep an open mind, but listen to those who are actually diving - not someone that thinks that diving four times a year is a lot. Explore your local dive sites. Set personal goals - and hit them - before rewarding yourself with new scuba gear. Practice delayed gratification, no matter how small the purchase price. Never let anyone pressure you to buy or dive. Know that anyone, at any time, can "thumb" (cancel) the dive for any reason, no questions asked. Be aware of your buddy... And never encourage a loved one to dive. If they want to dive with you, then they will.

Above all, master the basics - bouyancy and trim are rare commodities and can always be improved. Work on your fin kicks. Practice slow, controlled, horizontal ascents and remember that a smile and a helping hand go a lot further than an aloof attitude.

Never hold your breath, but pause at the top of each inhale. Never dive with anyone with an unsafe or competitive attitude. And remember, your gear is life support, not a beach toy.

...And yes, you can make a very handsome living diving. Don't let people tell you otherwise. :)

Oh, and yes, the smell of pee DOES wash out of the wetsuit. If it didn't, EVERYONE would smell like pee. :D
 
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You're getting all sorts of good info here. The only thing I can add is to check out DAN - Divers Alert network online. They have all sorts of safety info and offer diver's insurance which every diver should have. It covers a chamber ride or evacuation if required. Hopefully you will never have to use it, but it is good to have.
 
My personal preference when it comes to fins are short, stiff, wide fins like ScubaPro's Jet fins. With your large foot, you might want to consider a set of IDI "Turtle" fins, which are pretty much the antithesis of today's soft, long, narrow, colorful, soft plastic fins. With no plastic on the Turtles, they will look new for a much longer time, and with very little flex they will allow you to power through the water with a lot of torque. The short, wide blade will give you amazing control, and you'll be able to easily control the fin tips, the key to many advanced fin kicks. Long, floppy fins simply can't offer these advantages, and those divers who use them often find themselves accidentally kicking their buddies, kicking the reef, and silting up confined areas.

...But you'll never see any of these things touted in marketing. :)

Fins like the Turtles and the more common (but probably a bit on the small side for your foot) ScubaPro Jet Fins are usually the choice for advanced and "technical" divers that have been diving a long time... Mostly because of the precision that they offer and because they can withstand years of abuse and look new with a shot of Armor-All. :) They also don't go "out of style" in a matter of a year or two like many fins in the mainstream market today.

Deep Sea actually makes a nice bootie that fits well in a set of Turtles. Another option would be ScubaPro's "Delta" bootie. Both booties have a rubberized instep that holds a fin nicely. I recommend replacing all fin straps with spring heels - they make life much simpler and will last for years and years without breaking at the most inopportune time like OEM straps do.


I have a few more question for ya.
currently in our class, we are using the "supplied" equipment.
When we are in the water, every time i try to kick, my fins just fold under my feet. (literally, the fin touches the bottoms of my feet!!!!)
i know these are used, and there is no telling how long they have been used, so i am trying to take this in to consideration, but i just want your opinions.

they are these.
http://www.leisurepro.com/Prod/CategoryID_956/Context_954/Sort_Stock/DescSort_0/Filter_1%3d312/TBTF77.html?Hit=1

My instructor is the only Scuba Pro dealer around, and is a nice guy. he doesnt like split fins. (he has your point of view on them, and says you can do 10X more with regular ones and be more reliable then the split fins.

He has some more of the fins i linked you to, and i was just wondering what your opinions are on them? i figure the new ones will be better as they wont be abused. On the other hand, if they are just a decent fin, and there are other ones that are better for not much of a different price, just let me know.

Thanks SeaJayInSC
and any other people that Chime in.
 
Yeah, man! :)

Glad to see that you've got an instructor that:

1. Supplies gear.
2. Isn't following the hype that's plainly market-oriented and not diving-oriented. :)

He's right about the fins. "Testing" by various entities (all of them paid for by fin manufacturers, regardless of whether they tell you that or not) shows that splits are simultaneously faster and require less effort. Whether this is true or not (I don't believe so, based on my experience), seasoned divers rarely list "speed" as a desireable characteristic of a fin. Diving isn't about getting around as fast as possible, and even if it was, speed has a direct correlation with thrust - so the more water you can move with your fins, the faster you'll go. If you look at the dynamics of a propeller in the water (what the splits are supposed to emulate), there is no likeness whatsoever to split fins - it's all marketing hype, plain and simple. If splits did what they advertise they do, then boat propellers would be soft, flexible, and split down the middle.

What IS important to seasoned divers when it comes to fins is:

1. A good fit. This can be achieved through the use of the right bootie between the fin and your foot. Every person is different, and every fin is different.

2. Preciseness of control. With a short, stiff fin, it's much easier to control the fin tips of the fin than it is with a long, floppy fin. Control of the fin tips is the key to a variety of different fin kicks, including the much-talked-about "backward kick." Short, stiff fins are easier to keep off of the coral, work much better in confined environments (like shipwrecks and caves), and are easier to control so that you don't kick your buddy. "Big floppies" fail miserably in all of those departments.

3. Negatively bouyant. Plastic fins float, which means you'll have to compensate with more lead on your belt - and then tend to be "feet floaty." A negatively-bouyant fin will leave you with amazing control of your trim with the bend of a leg, negate the need for ankle weights, and actually allow you to take a bit of lead off of your belt.

4. Stiff enough to allow you to put whatever power you have in your legs into the water. Remember, fin propulsion is all about moving water... Historically, "jointed" fins and plastic fins fold up easily, "slipping" in the water and robbing you of propulsion. Because you're a big guy like me, I would definitely recommend staying away from plastic fins, jointed fins, and splits.

5. Durability. Plastic scratches easily and looks worn quickly. Cheap plastic fins will fade, too. Solid rubber fins tend to stay nice for a long period of time, and if they ever get worn-looking, a shot of Armor-All (or spray silicone) will make them look new again.

For these reasons, I wouldn't recommend the Tusas that you pictured above... Plainly, you're "overkicking" them anyway, and need a stiffer fin in order to get your power into the water.

My favorite fins - and therefore my recommendation to you - is a set of ScubaPro Jet fins, like these:

scubapro-jetfins.jpg


You may find a problem with the foot pocket of them, though... The size XL will probably be too small for your foot, and the size XXL will probably be too big. You'll have to test them out to know for sure, with a variety of booties to find the right mix.

If you DO find that neither of the ScubaPro Jet sizes fit your foot, then look at a set of IDI Turtle Fins, which are essentially the same fin as the ScubaPro Jets but with a foot pocket halfway in size between the XL ScubaPro Jet and the XXL ScubaPro Jet:

turtle.fins.xxxl.jpg


Either way, I do NOT recommend purchasing a set of fins without first trying them on. This may require you to do a little driving to make the right choice. :)

...And when you purchase the fins, try them on with the bootie you've got and leave yourself open to purchasing a new bootie that works better for your fins.

...Since your instructor is a ScubaPro dealer, has he not suggested a set of Jets for you?

And yes, I DO recommend replacing the rubber strap with spring heels. Aside from being uber-cool looking, they're functionally amazing, and solve all sorts of problems. I recommend the ones made by Halcyon - simple, high in quality, and installed in Halcyon shops on-the-spot so you don't have to. :)

Hope that helps. :) Stay away from flimsy plastic fins. They're made for children and little women who aren't going to overkick them. :)

And no, the new Tusas won't dive any different than the old ones you're diving now. They may look terrible as they get old, but no, they don't "wear out." :)

Hope that helps. :)
 
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i've dove many types of fins...flimsy, split, stiff, and longblade

i now dive strictly cressi gara long blade fins (commonly called freedive fins). only way you'll get another fin on my foot is to wait till i'm dead!!!

AMAZING performance in all aspects of diving

once you get used to them they are manuverable as any other fin, they are durable (the cressis anyway...had some sporasubs that cracked), and give you unbelievable thrust to kick effort underwater.

they are amazing in current

when my wife started diving with me she nearly cut her air consumption in 1/2 by switching. we'd dive side by side (usually me chasing more fish) and i'd have 1000psi more at the end of the dive than her consistently. borrowed some long blades and the very first dive we were within 100-200psi after the dive. she's been great on air ever since.

by the way....i'm a fish biologist by profession, and an avid spearfisherman.
 
Yeah, man! :)

What IS important to seasoned divers when it comes to fins is:

1. A good fit. This can be achieved through the use of the right bootie between the fin and your foot. Every person is different, and every fin is different.

2. Preciseness of control. With a short, stiff fin, it's much easier to control the fin tips of the fin than it is with a long, floppy fin. Control of the fin tips is the key to a variety of different fin kicks, including the much-talked-about "backward kick." Short, stiff fins are easier to keep off of the coral, work much better in confined environments (like shipwrecks and caves), and are easier to control so that you don't kick your buddy. "Big floppies" fail miserably in all of those departments.

3. Negatively bouyant. Plastic fins float, which means you'll have to compensate with more lead on your belt - and then tend to be "feet floaty." A negatively-bouyant fin will leave you with amazing control of your trim with the bend of a leg, negate the need for ankle weights, and actually allow you to take a bit of lead off of your belt.

4. Stiff enough to allow you to put whatever power you have in your legs into the water. Remember, fin propulsion is all about moving water... Historically, "jointed" fins and plastic fins fold up easily, "slipping" in the water and robbing you of propulsion. Because you're a big guy like me, I would definitely recommend staying away from plastic fins, jointed fins, and splits.

5. Durability. Plastic scratches easily and looks worn quickly. Cheap plastic fins will fade, too. Solid rubber fins tend to stay nice for a long period of time, and if they ever get worn-looking, a shot of Armor-All (or spray silicone) will make them look new again.

For these reasons, I wouldn't recommend the Tusas that you pictured above... Plainly, you're "overkicking" them anyway, and need a stiffer fin in order to get your power into the water.

My favorite fins - and therefore my recommendation to you - is a set of ScubaPro Jet fins, like these:

scubapro-jetfins.jpg


You may find a problem with the foot pocket of them, though... The size XL will probably be too small for your foot, and the size XXL will probably be too big. You'll have to test them out to know for sure, with a variety of booties to find the right mix.

If you DO find that neither of the ScubaPro Jet sizes fit your foot, then look at a set of IDI Turtle Fins, which are essentially the same fin as the ScubaPro Jets but with a foot pocket halfway in size between the XL ScubaPro Jet and the XXL ScubaPro Jet:

turtle.fins.xxxl.jpg


Either way, I do NOT recommend purchasing a set of fins without first trying them on. This may require you to do a little driving to make the right choice. :)

...And when you purchase the fins, try them on with the bootie you've got and leave yourself open to purchasing a new bootie that works better for your fins.

...Since your instructor is a ScubaPro dealer, has he not suggested a set of Jets for you?

And yes, I DO recommend replacing the rubber strap with spring heels. Aside from being uber-cool looking, they're functionally amazing, and solve all sorts of problems. I recommend the ones made by Halcyon - simple, high in quality, and installed in Halcyon shops on-the-spot so you don't have to. :)


Hope that helps. :)

My instructor "was" a ScubaPro dealer. he still has some stuff, but is out of the XXL fins.

There isnt another dealer within 3-4hours away.
I did ask him about them, and he loved them too. he said he has owned about 20pair over the year. his only complaint was the buckle, but you have mentioned a way to fix that.

I can order a pair over the internet, but i wouldnt be able to try a set on for comparison.
What would be your opinion?
should i get the Jet's and see what happens, or go with the Turtle.
can you elaborate on the differences between them?
there looks to be a little difference in the mid-end of the fins. is that about all? and if you recommend me going with the turtles, do they require a different set of straps too?

i also noticed that there are a few different kinds of spring straps that will fit the Jets.
 
What size foot do you have?

Do you ever get to do any diving around other divers? That'd be a great chance to try them out...

If I were you, I'd wait until you know exactly what you want - which means you're going to have to try them out first. :)
 
There arent many places in North Texas to go Diving.
And, because i wear a size 14 bootie, most people around here that do dive use smaller fins then what will fit my feet.

Is there a way to look or try on a fin "out of water" and get a fell? other then it fitting nicely, is there a way to check?

(these are serious questions from a extreme nubie)
any help or info is great.
(thanks for the chart! those are great pictures and i like the detail.)
 
There arent many places in North Texas to go Diving.

I don't mean to sound like a smartass, but if you're not going to be doing much diving, why do you need to buy fins?

Why not wait to purchase until you have the need? Perhaps then, what you'll want will be more apparent.

And, because i wear a size 14 bootie, most people around here that do dive use smaller fins then what will fit my feet.

What size shoe to you wear? What size set of Nikes, for example?

Is there a way to look or try on a fin "out of water" and get a fell? other then it fitting nicely, is there a way to check?

Of course - yes. You'll want to try the fin on in a dive shop with a variety of booties so that you find the right combination.

Are you certified yet?
 
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