I'm the worst reefer ever.

[NCNBilly]

Ug... The heat issues hit my montipora's hard, only the Undata, some orange digi, and purple cap have survived. The acros seem unaffected, and actually coloring up.

My NO3 is back up to 20ppm from the API kit, ~10/15 on the Salifert. I'm dosing nearly 3ml of vodka a day, and no decrease yet.

Seriously considering selling it all and just running a frag setup with BRS rock until I can build the new tank in 2010/2011

 

[2turtles]

Why don't you try submerging a bunch of bio-balls in your sump. I'll bet your nitrates come down.

 

[trippkid]

That sucks Bill, don't be too hard on yourself, we all have tank problems from time to time. Giving up is just too easy, but again sometimes starting over is the best way or only thing to do(I am in the same boat, I don't want to quit, just frustrated at times). I am looking to tear down my tank when I get frag tubs set up. Good luck, let me know if I can help in any way.
Matt

 

[svynx]

Same here. I was away for a week and came back to find a kelp like algae covering all of my sand. I've been fighting one type of algae after another for quite some time now. Seems like as soon as I get one under control, another pops up. I'm half tempted to take a year or two off, and then start up again after moving out of my apartment.

 

[laud]

I just showed my wife a new coral and she said, "Whoa, look at all that bubble algae!"

 

[volcom69]

I would almost be affraid to add bio balls as i would think the nitrate levels would rise. Can you pinpoint why your trates are this high, to much feeding or something like this. There are many succesful reefers out there who have there trates at 20, you just wanna make sure you keep your po4 levels down.

 

[2turtles]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15244609#post15244609 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by volcom69
I would almost be affraid to add bio balls as i would think the nitrate levels would rise.

A quote from Seachem site on their denitrate product:
*************
Seachem de nitrate
Product Description

denitrateâ"žÂ¢ is an economical, natural, porous material with a pore distribution and geometry that promotes both aerobic nitrification within the first few millimeters of depth and anaerobic denitrification at the core. The material has a high surface area and supports a high density of bacteria. Although de nitrateâ"žÂ¢ has capacity to trap nitrate, this, as with other nitrate retaining materials, such as certain zeolites and synthetic resins, is quite limited and the primary mechanism of nitrate removal is anaerobic.
**************
Submerged bio balls do the same thing. They give lots of surface area. The key is to have them submerged. A side tidbit - De nitrate never has to be replaced, think about it.

Part of my sump is a small laundry basket full of bio ball/blocks, Except for the top they are all submerged:

I have never had a problem with nitrates.

Buy good vodka and save it for the martini glass

 

[volcom69]

My only concern with the bio balls and bio wheels is that they would keep the nitrates in instead of getting rid of them. I dont know i never really had a problem with high nitrates either,and i do use denitrate in a phosban reactor to keep the trates down when i feed heavy. So im not sure i was always told no bio balls or bio wheels that they will raise nitrates. You on the other hand use bio balls and have no nitrates so it looks like either will work.

 

[2turtles]

I think the key is to have them submerged and in a low flow area. Everybody has a different "recipe" to make their systems work. This has been working for me for a long time, maybe I'm lucky or maybe something else is keeping them low.

 

[NCNBilly]

I have decided that I'm going to start downsizing. I'll be set up a frag-only system, probably with a 2'x4'x8" frag tank from Glass Cages, and a 400W pendant MH on a rail.

Probably start in late July, so keep ears open for anyone that may want the tank, stand, canopy, Mag 1800, 2x250w HQIs, and CO2 reactor. I may sell the vortech, but it depends on how well it works in 8".

 

[stephenrsaiz]

Bill - there's nothing wrong with 20ppm nitrates. That's a decent level. I added a nitrate reacctor, got mine to zero, and now my corals don;t look as colorful as they did with 20ppm. Granted I also added a new bulb and blasted the hell out of them, but I think the zero nitrates also contributed to the lack of color.

 

[aushepherd]

Bill, I think Steve is right. My nitrates are about 20 ppm and everything is ok, except for the hydno. that I gave Joel. I don't have a great tank, but the chalice and acan. are doing fine. The only issue I had was the heat, so I dropped the AC a little and added a fan in the room. The heat dropped and so did the cyano. problem. Maybe lower your Mh watts a little and go from there. Once the problems start again as you increase the watts, at least you'll know where to begin.
I think at some point we should sit down and talk a little about who has what and compare issues. Such as who has ro water, who has spring water, who uses what salt, and blah blah blah. This way we can determine what corals can be kept with what corals within the same elements. And jot everything down. This way we can give copied info to other reefers that join the club and they won't have to put up with the same frustration that we do. This is my opinion, so if implemented, somebody else can keep track of the info.

 

[NCNBilly]

Yeah, I know some people are able to work with higher nitrates, but it doesn't work in my tank. I get almost instant death. I'm back to thinking there's something wrong in my rock or sand. Ever since I moved 2 years ago the tank has been nothing but trouble.

 

[CBehr]

I've been reading up on algae scrubbers and finally build one about a week ago. People "claim" they fix nutrient issues. I'd give that a shot before you start tearing down!

Too early to tell if mine is working but I'll keep you guys updated.

 

[WILLIAM2]

I also have been fighting nitrates alot lately until the 180 was set up.

Now I run my skimmer very wet (MRC-2).

I also upped the flow in the tank to relieve some of the low flow areas.

I wouldnt do the bio balls but some LR rubble mybe about 20#'s

I just try to keep it as natural as possible.

Make sure your getting enough oxygen exchange threw power heads breaking the water surface.

 

[volcom69]

Your nitrates at 20 will not give you instant death, did you ever check for any po4 in your system, the po4 will kill corals before the trates would.

 

[NCNBilly]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15256886#post15256886 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by volcom69
Your nitrates at 20 will not give you instant death, did you ever check for any po4 in your system, the po4 will kill corals before the trates would.

0 PO4 via Salifert, but we all know they aren't that accurate.. No one here has a Hanna that I know of.

The really intriguing thing is that my NO3 is increasing, but I'm not feeding anything at the moment. Only 2 fish - the mandarin doesn't need fed and the Jeweled Damsel that deserves a cold shallow death.

 

[aushepherd]

Do a complete tap water test with the same test kit. My po4 was high in my tank, even after water changes. Found out my RO system was not working right. And I was drinking that crap!!

 

[Jandree22]

a Zero'ed out PO4 on a Salifert should at least tell you that's not a source of major malfunction.

In the absence of food, only one explanation left... that damsel is using its black voodoo magic to swallow disolved N2 and O2 and poop out NO3. Figure out a way to remove all atmospheric N2 and O2 from your basement and you should be good to go!

 

[volcom69]

I have a hanna. How many water changes do you do in a week, are you doing a couple small ones a week, or just one at the end of the week. I would test your ro water for po4 and no3. Do you have a fuge, if so what kind of algea are you growing, is it even growing at all. If you are not feeding at all the source of your no3 is leaking back in your tank somehow, like dirty filters or filter socks things like this. I do have a Hanna though.