In need of a >30 gallon tank.

Kalied20

Kalied20

New member
I have been fighting an ICH outbreak this weekend and I am about to go to Critter to look for a big enough tank to do treatment of my tangs.

I will be looking for homes for the two regals as they have begun to outgrow the 90 very rapidly of late. If anyone is interested. If not I will be getting them better and sending them to the Zoo or maybe the children's hospital.

Please call me on my cell if you have a tank. As I am on the way out the door to the store for water and tank if no one calls.

I would love to get a 40 breader if anyone has one.

Cell #403-5626
 
Good luck with the ick battle. To be sure to totally irradicate it from your system you will need to take every single fish out of the tank and let it sit fallow for at least 4-6 weeks. 8 if you want to be 110% sure. Even though the other fish have no visiable signs they can harbour it in very low numbers in the gill area and only cause another outbreak on less imune resistant fish like tangs. Have you tried metronidazole? It has had promising reports in the cure of ICK. Only 2 things are tried and true, copper and Hypo. I would go the hypo route especially since copper has to be at almost toxic levels to be theraputic :( And especially with those regals who are known to end up with HLLE very easily anyways.

My PBT actually came down with ICK in the last few weeks :(. Yes, the queen of preaching a QT naturally got it. I put 1 tiny little fish in my sump holding it for someone a few days from the last SWF order and to just put the iceing on the cake from that @#%* order he brought Ick in, then he also died :( The only fish with signs was the PBT about 2 weeks after that (time enouph to incubate). I am currently feeding metro/garlic/vitamine mix and doing extra water changes. He has went through 2 cycles of it and has been Ick free for over a week now. One school of thought is if you can boost the immune system enouph to get them through the cycles the Ick will die out naturally. I am still a little more sold on the take everyone out methode and doing hypo but am willing to try the let it run its course with help from the mentioned food mix instead of tearing down my tank. To be honest I would let everyone die first I think and just have a fishless reef!:eek2: :eek1: :rolleye1:

Also if you don't set up the Qt right it can be even more stressfull which = more ick. Especially on those easily stressed regals. You will need something in there for bio and do plenty of water changes because the params in a 30 gallon with a few big fish can get out of hand in as little as 2 days. Anyways good luck.
 
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erhm... haven't I raved about UV filters in the past concerning ICH?

Get one... borrow one... and come back in 3-4 days letting us know how it is. :D

If you run a UV filter and have ever suffered ICH for an extended period of time... please come forth.
 
the uv filter does work i used to have a real bad problem with ich, the i got the uv steralized and havent had a problem since, emerald bay sells them really cheap.
 
I bought my UV filter used. Although I'd never be so bold, the guy I bought it from boasted about buying a ich/ick covered tang and purposefully introducing it to his tank. No of his other fish caught the parasite and the tang ended up perfectly fine.
 
FWIW, theres a 125 gallon tank on eBay thats in Indiana with a "homemade stand" for only $275 buy it now. PM or email me for a link if you can't find it. :)

Brandon
 
Well, I took the plung and just bought a 50 gallon. Critter had a really nice one with Starfire glass. I had everything else so it is up and full of water. Heating up right now and I am looking in my 90 trying to figure out how to get those buggers out of there. I guess I am just going to have to take everything out. and net them all.

I am planning on leaving it up and putting my anthias, clowns and maybe the chromis. Not sure yet. But I though I would try and get at least the clowns in there with the Anenome and a few softies. It's pretty bad when you are setting up hypo that you buy something to setup afterwards. LOL
 
I did the quick drain to catch a huge mean yellow tang in my 80 but the only problem is with fish like anthia can go in the rock at the first sign of trouble and just get beached in there. I really wanted to catch a mean chromis also and he was just stuck in the rock somewhere.
 
that is my problem with the drain method. I have 5 chromis, three anthias and a sixline that go directly to the rock work. While the water goes down they won't even come out. when I transferred from my 24 to the 90 I had to pull the rocks out and flush them in a big bucket to get the fish out.

I hate doing it this way. But but a little stress now then die from Ich?
 
I did find my older bakpak skimmer and some powerheads to use. What kind of filter should I use or should I just do water changes every two or three days?
 
I think I was checkin' that tank out you ended up buyin'....nice. I would have tried to chat some when I seen you but I was with my brother and nephew.....and nephew was runnin' all over the place. Hope everything works out.

Steve
 
Well after stressing out everything in my 90 including me (I slipped and went in to my ear), all my fish are alive and swimming around in their new hospital. We will see how the corals do tomorrow.
 
What are you planning for bio? If you have no instant bio you will have to do water changes to keep the tank from going into a cycle. Post over in disease how often you will need to do that but I would say every day or 2 but just guessing.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9732720#post9732720 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefer5060
the uv filter does work i used to have a real bad problem with ich, the i got the uv steralized and havent had a problem since, emerald bay sells them really cheap.
Click to expand...

I had the same experience with UV filtration. It definatly helps. I think you have to have a very high flow system for it to be effective, otherwise when the ich drops it never makes it to the uv filter.
 
Ok, I got the QT setup and the fish in there. They are doing fine this morning and even eating a little. I did lose one of the Anthias, too much stress for the little guy I think.

Questions:

1. Do I need to run a little HOB filter or something?

2. If I treat with Chemicals, do I still need to do Hypo and take it down to 1.009?
 
I fear you have a long road ahead of you. It also seems like the UV filter I mentioned isn't going to get a second thought, which is unfortunate. I'm probably going to get lots of backlash on this one, but I seriously believe running a UV filter you would see great results in a matter of a couple of days.

With that said, I'd like to offer some more food for thought.

1. While free swimming ich parasites can only live without a host for around 24 hours, cysts can stay dormant in the substrate and on live rock for weeks to months. Since you can't put your main tank in hypo, you may need to extend qt by several weeks to ensure. This means a full 8 weeks is suggested. I read 40 days was enough, but thats roughly 6 weeks. If I'm going through 6 weeks of hell... I'd defintiely go another couple of weeks to ensure irradiation. I believe your goal should be 8 weeks of treatment in your method.

2. As Angela said, make sure you set up your qt properly to make the fish feel at home. It will definitely become more stressed simply by moving it from its home to qt. There is no way around that, but a properly set up qt can assist. Yes, this includes biological filtration via HOB or something else. If you're using medication, you just want to make sure you don't run carbon.

3. From what I've read, hypo is at exactly 1.015 or less. I suppose the reason to take it down to 1.009 is to give you a little room for evap which would cause the SG to increase. If it gets above 1.015, all your work may have been destroyed allowing reproduction of the parasite to continue.

4. I'm not sure about doing both hypo and medications (copper). However when you do it, this should be done over a couple of days to yet again... reduce the amount of stress. You need to MAKE SURE you have test kits to measure copper in the qt. Without being able to measure it, its useless and possibly dangerous/toxic.


I don't know what else I can say or offer except its going to be a long road and you need to be tedious to make sure you do it right.
 
Copper in hypo is toxic to marine fish and hypo HAS to be at 1.009 to be effective, that is the lowest SG that it has been proven that no free swimmers can survive ;)
A new clean HOB is still not gonna provide any bio, you will still get a cycle. The bio has not had time to mature. If you run filter floss or pads in a HOB or something and haven't changed it in awhile there will be some bacteria on there but still not enouph to keep the QT from a cycle. I keep a big bag of ceramic rings and a sponge filter in my sump at all times for instant bio FWIW.
 
shouldnt he not use copper in this QT tank since he plans to set it up as a reef later down the road?

Steve
 
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