In need of a >30 gallon tank.
- Thread starter Kalied20
- Start date
rsteagall
New member
UV FILTRATION SCARES YOU ALL! 
As far as what I've mentioned, I'm just going by what people have said here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=167243
As far as what I've mentioned, I'm just going by what people have said here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=167243
Kalied20
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9741126#post9741126 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rsteagall
UV FILTRATION SCARES YOU ALL!
I read up on UV Filters after you mentioned it. It seems to be the belief of many that the UV helps keep things out of the tank if introduced. But if you have a large infection already, (which I do), then it will not be quick enough to help the inhabitants. And, in the long run it may not be enough to kill the ICH totally. Thus another outbreak. I do, however plan on placing a UV on the 90 during this nine weeks to help with that tank now and in the future.
I am going with hypo to kill the infection completely. I plan on 9 weeks actually. I am of the belief that one more won't hurt anything except what I am trying to get rid of.
I also have a HOB filter that I am going to populate with a sponge filter that I had in my refuge. I also have ceramic bag that I can use. (good suggection)
crumbletop
New member
Keep an eye on the pH of the tank as well as the ammonia. Hopefully your sponge and ceramic stuff is enough to keep from having too big of a cycle. IME, if you keep the pH okay, and the ammonia in check the fish will like the hypo environment just fine. Try to keep the ammonia in check via water changes if you can. Yes, and 1.009 is a must.
Kalied20
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9741415#post9741415 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rsteagall
So, the debate over whether ich can totally be irradiated is over?
Yes, its a loaded question.
Of course it is....but I think I will go with the way that has had the most success. I like my fish and do not want to play around trying things that have not been proven while they suffer. The Hypo treatment is the only thing that I have read that has worked to get rid of the infection instead of just subsiding it. If they prove that anything else works, then I up for trying it. But if it was a human, wouldn't you go for the treatment that has worked before??? Or something that everyone says works, but not sure.
If you only have one fish that is showing signs of ich infection, I would remove that fish, and move it to QT. Wait and see if the other fish show any signs while treating the sick fish. If you tank is eaten up with ich you should see signs of it on the other fish rather quickly.
This is coming from someone who has what some people call ich resistant fish (the respected articles say this cannot be possible), but I have introduced several fish into my tank that had ich, and none of my other fish have ever shown infection. In fact the Kole Tang I have right now is now about 1 month in the tank and it was ate up with ich for about one week. I run UV and feed with garlic when introducing new fish.
All that being said, if I had the room I would rather have a QT tank that ran at 1.009. Any new fish would go there for 4-6 weeks.
This is coming from someone who has what some people call ich resistant fish (the respected articles say this cannot be possible), but I have introduced several fish into my tank that had ich, and none of my other fish have ever shown infection. In fact the Kole Tang I have right now is now about 1 month in the tank and it was ate up with ich for about one week. I run UV and feed with garlic when introducing new fish.
All that being said, if I had the room I would rather have a QT tank that ran at 1.009. Any new fish would go there for 4-6 weeks.
crumbletop
New member
That's what I have done, and it has worked like a charm.
The whole question as far as running a UV is is it worth it as far as added heat to the tank and energy used as compared to the risk of having ich. If you properly QT and provide an environment for the fish that is relatively stress free ich should occur very seldom if ever. If you frequently add fish and/or you don't QT then a UV is probably a good idea. I personally ran a UV on my 90 for about a year (for other purposes besides ich, molecular disassociation of organic phosphate) and to me it just wasn't worth the additional time my chiller had to work for the negligible benefits it provided.
FWIW, Chris
FWIW, Chris
Kalied20
New member
I wish is was only one. But several have signs or spots already. I have now pulled all of them and put them in the 50 gallon. I bought a small HOB filter rated for 50 gallons to help a little with water circulation. I bought some of those fake sunken ships and a fake coral piece for them to hide in.
I plan on getting enough fresh RO/DI water to start the Hypo tomorrow along with 30 or so gallons of fresh saltwater. I will bring the SG down slowly and change about 5 gallons every other day of saltwater to keep the pollutants down.
the display tank is looking ok. I am losing my vey nice Green Monti Cap. I think something hit it in all the moving around and about half of it is dead this morning. But everything else is good. I plan on doing a 15 gallon water change for a week for about 4 weeks. This is just to help clean up my DT while there are no fish in there. The parameters are a little off since I stirred it up pretty good moving everything out and catching the fish.
Angela Short
New member
You need to just drop the SG to 1.009 right off. Wasting time over days can only lead to an even worse infection on the fish. I have droped my new guys right from the bag into 1.009 with no problems. My sailfin and a rabbit fish I sold I bought with a few spots of Ick almost year ago and They went right into an already set up hypo tank and I never saw any manifestation of it and they were perfectly fine. (there have been studies proving this to be of no harm) You just have to make sure the PH is the same. I wouldn't fool with RO/DI for the QT either, waste of money IMO, the fish don't need the pristeen water like the corals do. You will need to take a LOT of water out to get the SG down to where it needs to be. I would start with 20 gallons from a 50 and have the tap water buffered up and dechlorinated. The PH will fall in the SW adding FW so keep a check as you lower the SG and buffer accordingly. Also if the fish have lots of cysts you need to keep an eye out for a secondary bacterial infection from all the tiny open wounds when the cyst drops off (red streaks or splotches).
Angela Short
New member
If you haven't opened the fake corals yet you can just chop up and glue together a nice cheap PVC structure. Fish are fine with any hidding spot and those fake decorations are not cheap .
.
Kalied20
New member
I already dropped to 1.018 from 1.025. The purple anthia that is left from the three had a lot of spots and they are almost gone. The tangs are about half of what they had. I know that doesn't mean much yet. I am going to drop to 1.009 tonight since they are all doing well and eating like pigs as always.
The only one I worry about is my sand sifting goby. He has only eaten a little bit and without sand he seems to be stressing out.
The only one I worry about is my sand sifting goby. He has only eaten a little bit and without sand he seems to be stressing out.
