In Wall Tank Owners - What Construction Materials/Methods?

[46bfinGA]

How was the humidistat effected by the outside humidity? Do you have a fan bringing in air also or just vents from the outside that open once the fan comes on?

 

[8BALL_99]

The thing is if you have a humidistat set for say 70% and its 68% outside then it will kick on every couple of mins.. Ofcourse if you have your Humidistat set lower then outside humidity it will just run 24/7.. Or if its raining outside they will also run non stop. Blowing all your heating or cooling out :|

FWIW you glue frp to the walls so under all the joints the wall is covered with FRP glue.. Its also waterproof.. I also siliconed all the joints . If this stuff is installed right you can spray the walls down with a hose pipe.. Thats why its used in kitchens.. I had to put 200 4'x12' sheets of the stuff in a sports bar that rents to me..

 

[jnarowe]

yeah check the picture. if your tank room is sealed off from the house (which I believe it should be) you need to provide replacement air. I have an attic style vent which is positioned under my deck, supplying the tank room with fresh cool air.

 

[46bfinGA]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11354873#post11354873 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
yeah check the picture. if your tank room is sealed off from the house (which I believe it should be) you need to provide replacement air. I have an attic style vent which is positioned under my deck, supplying the tank room with fresh cool air.

Ohh I see the vent right next to the fan. Duhhh! That is basically the same way I plan to do my room only difference would be the vent will be on the opposite side of the room. I was hoping that would cause the air to move across the room a little better. Not sure if it would make a difference?

 

[46bfinGA]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11354719#post11354719 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 8BALL_99
The thing is if you have a humidistat set for say 70% and its 68% outside then it will kick on every couple of mins.. Ofcourse if you have your Humidistat set lower then outside humidity it will just run 24/7.. Or if its raining outside they will also run non stop. Blowing all your heating or cooling out :|

So using a thermostat to control the fans would eliminate that? Im also using a Window AC unit in the summertime.So I guess the exhaust Fans should only be used in the winter? GA. doesnt have very cold winters so Im guessing my AC will run most of the time.

 

[jnarowe]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11355033#post11355033 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 46bfinGA
Ohh I see the vent right next to the fan. Duhhh! That is basically the same way I plan to do my room only difference would be the vent will be on the opposite side of the room. I was hoping that would cause the air to move across the room a little better. Not sure if it would make a difference?

Absolutely would make a difference. What you see there is just temporary to vent fumes. Current setup looks like this:

It's hard to see but in this picture behind the skimmer is the vent van connected to flexible ducting. To the right it goes to the outside, and to the left it goes to two intake vents mounted at the far end of the tank up high. At the near end of the tank are my 2 x 6" blowers, that blow across the tank between the water and the halides, pushing the heated air towards the vent intakes.

 

[8BALL_99]

Here is My intake and Exhaust vents.

As far as the humistat.. You could still use one if you want to try and keep the moisture down.. I'd just set it pretty high.. Really though I dont worry about the moisture in my room.. I just water proofed everything I could.. My Intake/Exhaust fans are just for tempiture control in the winter.. I exhaust hot air out and bring cool air in.. They are connected to a relay thats controlled by a 5 dollar thermostat.. In the summer I just run the AC. Sometimes I'll cut the fans on if I'm cleaning my skimmers or something.. But for the most part I dont run them in the summer..HTH

 

[jnarowe]

FRP all the way eh 8BALL? Very nice. The thing about humidity as it relates to tank rooms is that generally speaking, the temp. rises as the humidity does, so I just control mine by temp. and adjust it occassionally for different seasons.

 

[redwinger02]

My plan is insulated walls and ceiling, then a poly vapor barrier over that. Foam all outlets and make it as tight as possible. Then green board the whole thing, paint in a oil based primer and finish. The ventilation is going to be handled by the ERV air exchanger. The return for the fish room is right before the air exchanger so most of the humidity will be sucked right out any remaining humidity will be handled by the central ac/furnace. And fresh cool/heated air will be fed through a single supply. All trim will be caulked to the floor and walls. The floor will be coated in a epoxy paint.

 

[Oldtimer]

I plan to go with DenseArmor Cement board & exterior paint on the 2 walls that will be finished - half the walls are exterior cement walls so I just plan to seal them with Thoroseal. Lowes has 1/2" 3'x5' DenseArmor sheets for $10. I've decided that the Cement board will be a cheap investment since I don't have much wall to cover. I'll probably install a 6 mil ply vapor barrier between the studs and cement board and fill the wall with fiberglass. The ceiling is already covered with heavy cement based drywall so I'll leave it alone. I plan to insulate the room from the main living area as much as possible and run an HRV and Mini split AC. That ought to do it.

 

[jnarowe]

I didn't even know DenseArmor existd when I did my tank roo. Sounds like a good aternative and not too expensive.