Initial planning stages for tank and fish room

[Bilk]

I do, too, like how it turned out.

Can you do video? How about a simple walk through?

Thanks Will do when I get started with plumbing and controls.

 

[Bilk]

Moving right along Hopefully I'll complete the cosmetic aspects of this renovation/fish room/tank build over the weekend. Presently applying the finish to the tank surround - using wood and applying a Venetian finish, so hope it works out well. I was thinking I wanted a metal surround of some sort, but I like working with materials I'm comfortable with. I know wood and paint LOL

I also installed the chromatic LEDs. I'm really diggin' it They change colors, dim and run crazy patterns. Should be fun

Here's where I was a few hours ago. Just applied primer to the wood and will start the faux finish process later. The front lifts for some access, but not exactly happy with the range the hinges provide. Because of the overlap at the top, the range is limited with the present hinges. Guess I'll look for something else, but in the meantime these will suffice. If anyone out there has some other suggestions for this, please offer them up.

Oh the side panels are not installed. They will get mounted after the finish is applied so each panel has it's own pattern.

 

[Bilk]

Man am I happy to say all the cosmetic and ancillary work for this project is now complete and I can start on the fun, nut's and bolts part - building the system and getting it up and running :bounce1:

The final product. I think the pics really don't do it justice. The three dimensional aspects of the faux finish aren't captured well in the pics, but I'm happy with the results. Man I'll never do that again LOL I couldn't have imagined how much physical work a faux finish like this would entail. I certainly didn't expect it to take the amount of time it did :crazy1:

Next up is constructing the lighting support structure from EZ tubes. Guess that's the project for this weekend

 

[FuGu2]

This is gonna look awesome.

 

[Bilk]

This is gonna look awesome.

Thanks. Now to build a reef system worthy of it.

I've really miss having a large anemone hosted by clown fish, as I had in my 110. This tank is large enough to enable me to keep that and sps. One side will be a bit more open with the anemone and some gorgonians and the other more of a ledge with sps. Well that's the initial vision anyway. We know how things and intents change in this hobby

I have all of the equipment save the Genesis systems. I'll get them ordered soon. I'll post a complete list of equipment and how things will flow and operate, soon.

 

[djmx2002]

tagging along, building similar system in few months looking very nice so far

 

[sandyland]

The recess around the tank looks awseome.
That was a great idea.

 

[Bilk]

Hey sandyland and dj. Thanks.

I had the idea for the recessed surround for a while and thought it would make a nice feature for lighting to highlight the tank, though it certainly adds more work to the project

I'll be putting a list of equipment up here soon and would like some feedback. Same goes for the substrate and rock structure. Right now it looks like I'm going with Macro Rocks and their aragonite sand. I'd like to use the fine, but not sure on that yet. It will be +- 2".

 

[Allmost]

Never mind.

carrion

 

[Bilk]

Here's my list of equipment for getting this system up and running. I'll post more pics and info as things progress.

-192g euro-braced acrylic tank 66”Lx28”Wx24”H
-Bean Animal overflow
-(2) Seaswirl Sea Sweeps with Tunze 6105's
-65g sump
-ETSS 800XR skimmer powered by Iwaki MD70RLT
-Blueline HD55 return pump
-(2) Ecoxotic 100w Cannons
-(2) Hamilton Technologies low profile 168w Aruba Sun T5 – 60” fixtures
-Genesis complete system – ATO and water changes


I have yet to decided upon the method I'll use for maintaining calcium and alkalinity for the long run. Right now I'll be using 2 part as that's what I'm familiar with. Never used a reactor before. I'm also not sure what direction I'll go regarding nutrient uptake/export other than skimming. I may utilize the ATS I built or eventually try pellets. Zeovit is also within the realm of posibilities. :uhoh2:

I think in the beginning I'm going to let things run their course and use small daily water changes, to control things. Reading about the Genesis systems here and on other sites, I'm really looking forward to using them both. Hopefully they're as trouble free and simple to use as has been reported.

Input on all the above is really appreciated, and particularly on the lighting.

 

[sfsuphysics]

So is there travertine tile throughout the entire area?

Still wrapping my head around what to do for flooring myself, either vinyl, VCT, or ceramic tile... whatever I do I want to protect the subfloor from potential water spills.

 

[Bilk]

So is there travertine tile throughout the entire area?

Still wrapping my head around what to do for flooring myself, either vinyl, VCT, or ceramic tile... whatever I do I want to protect the subfloor from potential water spills.

Yes but not in the fish room. The subfloor is concrete. I am using an epoxy paint on the fish room floor.

 

[Osteoclast]

Tile your fish room and place a floor drain. Simple and effective.

 

[Bilk]

Tile your fish room and place a floor drain. Simple and effective.

Oh how I wish I could, but that would be another big job. Actually, there's a waste line that runs under the fish room floor. It handles the rain water from the lower rear patio. However, making the penetration through the concrete would be precarious. I installed radiant floor heat throughout the house. So there is heating tubes set into the concrete. I'm sure it could be done, but I don't think I'm up to doing it at this point LOL

I'll have to give this some consideration. Hmmmm?

 

[sfsuphysics]

Tile your fish room and place a floor drain. Simple and effective.

Trying not to hijack the OPs thread, but yeah a floor drain definitely is rubbing the back of my mind... I just hope there's enough of a slope to run one as it'll be fairly far from an actual sewage hook up.

Ceramic tile is one option... but it's my pricier option... and a bit more back breaking, I've done a bathroom in tile but that was like 6 feet by 5 feet, this room is 15 feet by 23 feet. Which is why I'm leaning toward VCT tiles, just need to figure out if I can water proof the seams

 

[Bilk]

One more step in the process was started today. I worked on fabricating the structure that will support the lights above the tank. I used square, 1" extruded aluminum tubes from EZ Tube, which many here on RC have used as well. I have to say the components make for a really professional looking finished product.

The basic dimensions are 51" long x 14" wide x 8" high. The dimensions were pretty much governed by the 48" tubing I ordered. This will support two Ecoxotic 100w Cannons and two 60" Hamilton Aruba Son fixtures. I'm waiting on delivery of the T5 fixtures. The Cannons will mount to 1/4" aluminum plate that insets on the top of the structure. I have a pretty good idea on how I'll mount the T5s as well. The entire assembly will be suspended from the ceiling via a pulley system so I can adjust the height above the tank as needed.

There are some things to consider when using EZ Tubes. To begin with, I used a fine tooth wood cutting blade rather than a composite metal cutting blade. The wall thickness of the tubes is thin. I achieved a much cleaner cut with the wood blade. Second, I made a small jig for the chop saw. Jigs are a great way to prevent blowout when cutting wood and they work well for metal cutting too. A cleaner cut is achieved with the jig. It also provides great reference for measuring cuts. Just be sure to clamp it to the fence of the chop saw.

The EZ Tubes and connectors need to be driven together with a hammer. I found a 3lb. lump hammer was perfect for the job. The connectors are really durable and can take the hits without deforming or marring. When needed I used a birch block over and under the pieces being forced together.

A note on the connections. In most cases, these connecting points are impossible to pull apart. If you make an error, you'll need to drive the connector off of the tubing. Not an easy task. I did make a change and had to do this. However, there were three short pieces on the 8" vertical that were easily pulled apart from the connectors. Obviously holding electrical equipment above the tank, I am concerned about this, so I drilled and screwed the verticals an inch in from the connecting points. Not sure why this occurred, but I guess the tolerances may be an issue. So if you use this system, check the security of the fit. I don't mind having the screws. I placed them on the inside of the legs so they're not even noticeable. All this said, the entire assembly doesn't need the screws. I just feel better that the vertical parts won't pull out having the whole thing fall into the tank.

Here's some pics of the process and the final product.

I expect a delivery from US Plastics for the plumbing fittings early next week and hopefully I'll have the Hamilton fixtures by then too. I'd like to get the light support mounted so I don't have to keep moving the tank around by myself LOL

 

[Bilk]

Trying not to hijack the OPs thread, but yeah a floor drain definitely is rubbing the back of my mind... I just hope there's enough of a slope to run one as it'll be fairly far from an actual sewage hook up.

Ceramic tile is one option... but it's my pricier option... and a bit more back breaking, I've done a bathroom in tile but that was like 6 feet by 5 feet, this room is 15 feet by 23 feet. Which is why I'm leaning toward VCT tiles, just need to figure out if I can water proof the seams

I'm still considering a floor drain too. I'm just not looking forward to excavating the pipe I also have some concern about water backing up into this level. The drain that runs under the floor takes runoff from the lower rear patio, which is then routed to an ejector pump in the front of the house. If the ejector ever failed, the water from the patio would back up into the house. Not something I would want to come home to.

The patio has a large planting area that is in the earth below the patio, so if the ejector fails, the runoff will flow to the planting area as the pitch is away from the house. I don't remember if the waste line runs deep enough for me to install a back flow device to prevent water heading out of the floor drain in the event of a pump failure, and if it isn't, there's a good chance the water would flow out of the floor drain if it's in a heavy rainfall. Maybe I'll ask my plumber what he thinks, since he did the initial work.

I hear you about the tiling. Man the 18" travertine tiles were a bummer to get level and in plain. At 1/2" thick, they're pretty heavy. I have to say I did a good job though. There are maybe two or three tiles with 1/32" lippage. Other than that, the floor is true as an ice rink

Ah heck. I say go for it. In the long run, you'll regret not doing it. Besides, if this is below grade, VCT isn't a good idea. If a flood does occur, they tend to pop. They don't handle water well

 

[worm5406]

Sorry, IMO, it is not worth putting a drain in there and deff not attaching it to the existing outside drain. As you said, one storm with one leaf in the wrong spot, and you are flooded.

You can take the rubber membrane that they use for tiling showers and make a tray/catch below it and make it have a low spot/slope to collect water. This could either be cleaned out by hand or to a wet/dry sensor/pump and drip/flow it to the sink drain. Since it would not be like a 1" pipe at full flow. something small could handle it.

 

[Bilk]

Sorry, IMO, it is not worth putting a drain in there and deff not attaching it to the existing outside drain. As you said, one storm with one leaf in the wrong spot, and you are flooded.

You can take the rubber membrane that they use for tiling showers and make a tray/catch below it and make it have a low spot/slope to collect water. This could either be cleaned out by hand or to a wet/dry sensor/pump and drip/flow it to the sink drain. Since it would not be like a 1" pipe at full flow. something small could handle it.

Yeah I was thinking of doing exactly what you suggest. I have some EPDM roofing membrane left over from an old job that I could use for this purpose, flash the walls as you said, and create some type of curb at the threshold. I'll just have to step over it when entering the fish room - the door opens outward. 2" - 3" high should be adequate to contain any serious leak or spill. A drain is always nice though. Makes cleanup much easier

 

[worm5406]

Just flash that one section to make it flush. or a small rolled edge.