Is my reefugium stripping my Nites too low

[scottrotton]

Hi All,

i've been neglecting my tank for about a year too busy with work etc but so far the biggest issue i face is lack of poly extension on one of my hammers, everything else is slow growing.

Did some tests and my alk is ok at 6.7, which i always keep between 6.7-7.8

I do a couple of water changes over that last year or so but just to vacuum the sand bed.

I noticed my phos and nitrates are at 0 and im getting Cyano so started dosing some nitrates to bring, i bought a clam from another reefer which had some bubble algae, didn't notice at the time and so i started dosing vibrant.

I use a skimmer and refugium for nutrient export and pull out a basketball sized piece per month, the refugium is lit 24/7.

My question is should. i reduce the lighting period for the refugium and allow nutrients to rise and also the risk of my tank have a bloom or dose nitrates and phos in a controlled manner, currently, i just started with nitrates as i had some potassium nitrate on hand.


I'm interested to get everyone's thoughts on this, I'm currently thinking to reduce lighting period but i should add I haven't purchased many fish since i got wiped out by an ich outbreak many months ago, I only have 1 clown and chromis, no natural algae eaters.

 

[Jason05]

Plants need to sleep too or they will work themselves to death eventually I run my five about 12 hours and usually allow a little die off before I prune to let some nutrient back to my tank more so for the vitamins and minerals that it soaks up from my dosing. With a stabile tank you should start getting some coraline algae for your day cycle and your fuge for your night cycle and maintain a more stable tank


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[scottrotton]

Sorry plants don't need to sleep unless flowering, and even then some aren't sensitive to photoperiods, plants can use stored carbohydrates which are usually used at night during lighting periods if no dark period occurs, its well documented. Here is an easy to understand version, there are more scientific ones around if that's your thing.

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/24hour-light-schedule-bad-plants-95954.html

BTW im not trying to bag on your answer and appreciate you taking the time to write it but i think its important we don't spread urban myths in case some else sees this like i have done with other posts in the past and get the wrong end of the stick.

I do find some macro do better under dark periods, Cheato has always died if i leave the photo on for 24/7. The Caulerpa macro i use at the minute has no issues growing and 0 die off.

 

[Jason05]

Some will survive but won't thrive, but you sound like you have it all figured out anyways


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[Big E]

Hi All,

i've been neglecting my tank for about a year too busy with work etc but so far the biggest issue i face is lack of poly extension on one of my hammers, everything else is slow growing.

Did some tests and my alk is ok at 6.7, which i always keep between 6.7-7.8

I do a couple of water changes over that last year or so but just to vacuum the sand bed.

I noticed my phos and nitrates are at 0 and im getting Cyano so started dosing some nitrates to bring, i bought a clam from another reefer which had some bubble algae, didn't notice at the time and so i started dosing vibrant.

I use a skimmer and refugium for nutrient export and pull out a basketball sized piece per month, the refugium is lit 24/7.

My question is should. i reduce the lighting period for the refugium and allow nutrients to rise and also the risk of my tank have a bloom or dose nitrates and phos in a controlled manner, currently, i just started with nitrates as i had some potassium nitrate on hand.


I'm interested to get everyone's thoughts on this, I'm currently thinking to reduce lighting period but i should add I haven't purchased many fish since i got wiped out by an ich outbreak many months ago, I only have 1 clown and chromis, no natural algae eaters.

You've got a light bioload, your export system currently is overkill. You have one short term option.........reduce your export system. You can reduce your lighting period as you suggest.........I'd cut it down to 12 hours or opposite of your diplay lighting, but I wouldn't be suprised if you still have undetectable nutrient readings.

Vibrant is also acting as a nutrient reducer.......how much bubble algae do you have?

Longer term add more fish as right now you aren't putting enough food in the tank to create a nutrient rich environment. Take your time, set up a QT tank and be patient to create a good working sponge filter.

The fastest way to get results would be to take the algae filter off line. You will still probably be fine with just the skimmer and Vibrant.

Once the pest algae is gone you can stop the Vibrant and see where you're nutrient levels lie.

I don't like adding phosphate/nitrate as a long term solution..........makes no sense to me.