MileHighFish
New member
i have never used one of these.. are the worth the $$$ ETC.. THANKS..
is Ozone Generators worth the effort?
- Thread starter MileHighFish
- Start date
MileHighFish
New member
why?
Just like anything else they seem to have their pros and cons IMO.
They make for some really clear water. Lot's of SPS people use them. Cycling them on and off with a controller is a good way to keep your redox numbers up.
Of course they also have that somewhat dangerous to your health kind of thing going for them if you don't understand how to set them up properly.
Brett
They make for some really clear water. Lot's of SPS people use them. Cycling them on and off with a controller is a good way to keep your redox numbers up.
Of course they also have that somewhat dangerous to your health kind of thing going for them if you don't understand how to set them up properly.
Brett
MileHighFish
New member
lol, Stevenx2 sounds like you dont feel their safe? i'm a bit lazy from time to time i would hate for the thing to mess up and kill my cats etc.. i guess more reading is in order..
I detail all about them here:
Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 1: Chemistry and Biochemistry
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php
Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 2: Equipment and Safety
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php
Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 3: Changes in a Reef Aquarium upon Initiating Ozone
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php
Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 1: Chemistry and Biochemistry
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php
Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 2: Equipment and Safety
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php
Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 3: Changes in a Reef Aquarium upon Initiating Ozone
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php
You're welcome.
Good luck.
Good luck.
I've heard a number of folks complain about their Red Sea ozonizers, but I've not had one myself. That size is probably adequate. I discuss sizes in the above article:
from it:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php#10
Ozone Generators: Practical Information
As a practical matter, ozone generators are easy for aquarists to use. If their ozone output is adjustable, the device will have a control dial on it. Such a dial controls the power applied across its internal electrodes. Otherwise, there is nothing to set or adjust (unless the ozone generator comes packaged in a box with a redox controller, which is discussed below). If they are not adjustable, they may have nothing more than an electric cord, an air inlet and an air/ozone outlet.
Ozone generators for aquaria that use a corona discharge consume very little electricity. Typical aquarium units use 10 watts or less (for 300 mg O3 per hour or less). They usually come with adequate directions for their use. Ozone generators frequently used by aquarists in the United States include those made by Sander, Aqua Medic, Enaly and Red Sea. Units based on UV light (e.g., Ultralife) typically use more electricity.
Gauging how much ozone is necessary is not trivial, and may depend strongly on the desired outcome from dosing ozone, how it is used and the other husbandry practices used in the aquarium. Clearing up yellowing in the water, for example, uses far less ozone than is necessary to sterilize the water. Likewise, a good ozone/water reaction chamber might allow far less ozone to be used than is required by an inefficient use in a skimmer. That being said, most guidelines suggest on the order of 0.3 to 0.5 mg O3/hr/gallon of aquarium water.
If possible, I would suggest locating the unit above the water's level where it is being used. All sorts of malfunctions (power failures, air pump failures, loose air line, etc.) can send water back up the air line tubing and into the ozone generator. Such water contact may not immediately ruin a corona discharge unit, but it will contribute to poor output and may eventually cause it to quit functioning. I am not sure what effect contact by liquid water would have on a UV based ozone generator, but it would not surprise me if it could shatter the bulb. An air check valve also helps reduce the likelihood of water contact. I have my Aquamedic ozone generator attached about 7' off the floor of my basement, where the treated water is sent into the reaction chamber and ultimately into the sump that is about 3-6' lower. Nevertheless, I have accidentally sent water into my ozone generator several times. In each case, the amount of ozone in the reaction chamber seems to come back to normal after 24 hours, but this practice is likely less than desirable.
Check with the manufacturer or the supplied directions before attempting to clean the inside of an ozone generator. Some recommend cleaning with pure fresh water and a brush, but that is not possible with other designs. My Aquamedic unit is sealed with a membrane of some sort, so poking any solid object into the fittings will damage it.
from it:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php#10
Ozone Generators: Practical Information
As a practical matter, ozone generators are easy for aquarists to use. If their ozone output is adjustable, the device will have a control dial on it. Such a dial controls the power applied across its internal electrodes. Otherwise, there is nothing to set or adjust (unless the ozone generator comes packaged in a box with a redox controller, which is discussed below). If they are not adjustable, they may have nothing more than an electric cord, an air inlet and an air/ozone outlet.
Ozone generators for aquaria that use a corona discharge consume very little electricity. Typical aquarium units use 10 watts or less (for 300 mg O3 per hour or less). They usually come with adequate directions for their use. Ozone generators frequently used by aquarists in the United States include those made by Sander, Aqua Medic, Enaly and Red Sea. Units based on UV light (e.g., Ultralife) typically use more electricity.
Gauging how much ozone is necessary is not trivial, and may depend strongly on the desired outcome from dosing ozone, how it is used and the other husbandry practices used in the aquarium. Clearing up yellowing in the water, for example, uses far less ozone than is necessary to sterilize the water. Likewise, a good ozone/water reaction chamber might allow far less ozone to be used than is required by an inefficient use in a skimmer. That being said, most guidelines suggest on the order of 0.3 to 0.5 mg O3/hr/gallon of aquarium water.
If possible, I would suggest locating the unit above the water's level where it is being used. All sorts of malfunctions (power failures, air pump failures, loose air line, etc.) can send water back up the air line tubing and into the ozone generator. Such water contact may not immediately ruin a corona discharge unit, but it will contribute to poor output and may eventually cause it to quit functioning. I am not sure what effect contact by liquid water would have on a UV based ozone generator, but it would not surprise me if it could shatter the bulb. An air check valve also helps reduce the likelihood of water contact. I have my Aquamedic ozone generator attached about 7' off the floor of my basement, where the treated water is sent into the reaction chamber and ultimately into the sump that is about 3-6' lower. Nevertheless, I have accidentally sent water into my ozone generator several times. In each case, the amount of ozone in the reaction chamber seems to come back to normal after 24 hours, but this practice is likely less than desirable.
Check with the manufacturer or the supplied directions before attempting to clean the inside of an ozone generator. Some recommend cleaning with pure fresh water and a brush, but that is not possible with other designs. My Aquamedic unit is sealed with a membrane of some sort, so poking any solid object into the fittings will damage it.
Thanks.
Happy reefing.
Happy reefing.
gbreynol
New member
I have a Red Sea 200mg/h on my 250 gallon system. Currently my Redox is around 350, and my water is crystal clear. The problem with the Red Sea unit is you need to use the Silica beads to dry the air, and they are a pain. I live in RI and the humidity is usually pretty high. The beads deplete after 24 hours, and need to be baked.
I plan on using the Red Sea system for the winter while the air is dryer, but in the spring I plan on upgrading to the Ultralife unit that does not require dry air. I would not spend the money on the Red Sea unless you live in a dry area.
I plan on using the Red Sea system for the winter while the air is dryer, but in the spring I plan on upgrading to the Ultralife unit that does not require dry air. I would not spend the money on the Red Sea unless you live in a dry area.
