is ro/di a pos or is it me?

Miamireefer

Miamireefer

New member
Well I finally hooked up my ro/di system. It is from pure water club. Anyhow I got the whole thing hooked up yesterday and is setup outside using my hose as the feed supply to the unit.

Anyhow I figure things would take a while to get TDS down to 0 but how long does it actually take?!!

I measured the TDS at the source being around 122-125 going into the unit. Coming out the best it has made is a reading of 13 TDS. I have already produced about 13 gallons. Does it take or rather should it take this long?

I read where the pressure coming into the first filter source to be at least 40 psi. I didn't have a gauge so I went and bought one along with a T connection and ran it inline with the feed line right before going into the first filter chamber.

So what's the deal? If anyone can shed some light please do because this is seriously getting me ****ed the f off. Any help is really appreciated at this point.

Thanks a mil folks,

Nick
 
Nick, you should easy be getting 000 reading from the get go. I wonder if you have a ro system only or a ro/di? how many stages is it? also, are you doing the measurements for clean water on the very last stage (after the di cartridge)?
 
I agree...I just hooked mine up, and got 0 right off the bat. Are the filters ready for changing maybe?
 
this is the unit..

PW-22-37-g.jpg



I just hooked it up yesterday and came with all new filters.. this sux @SS!

Rogger..yeah buddy I am measuring the water coming out of the last stage being the carbin filter.... I have also measured the winn dixie water in the bottles and measure 0 tds...when I test off my unit it looks like crap getting 13 being the best so far.
 
I thought about buying one from them off ebay too because the price can't be beat... now I'm thinking twice.

Maybe the DI medium needs to be repacked.
It could be possible that it wasn't done right or there is some channeling going on.
 
Those little horizontal chambers on top of the membrane aren't the best set up in the world. It will be easy to get channeling through them. It doesn't appear that the clear housing is full of media either (allowing water to simply pass over it).

Here's a thought:
Unhook those two chambers and see if you can get them to sit vertical just for testing purposes. Give it a few minutes to settle in and then retest the output water and see what you get.
 
I have a 5 stage from Air Water and Ice that has 2 horizontally mounted filters, I got 0 TDS right off the bat. Also make sure the container you're using to measure the water for TDS is clean. Don't measure it from a barrel or bucket, use a small, clean glass.
 
is it possible my water is flowing too fast through the di compartment? I removed the line after the membrane and got a measurement of 12 tds. It's basiucally the same after the di....

Should I lower water pressure going into the unit or put a restrictor inline to the di cartridge?

Thanks,

Nick
 
12 TDS going into the DI chamber should easily go down to 0.

That DI chamber is small and sits horizontal. If it were me, I'd probably replace that entire chamber with a full sized add on chamber with a refillable DI cartridge.

Did you sit that chamber vertical to see if it makes a difference? (have the water flow from the bottom to the top)
 
Are you putting the test water in a plastic container before you read the TDS? I have heard that plastic can cause the TDS meter to read higher due to leaching.

Just a thought...maybe you could try using a different container to read the water?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11930261#post11930261 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coralfragger101
12 TDS going into the DI chamber should easily go down to 0.

That DI chamber is small and sits horizontal. If it were me, I'd probably replace that entire chamber with a full sized add on chamber with a refillable DI cartridge.

Did you sit that chamber vertical to see if it makes a difference? (have the water flow from the bottom to the top)
Click to expand...
I agree 100%, there is no reason for you to have the same reading coming in and out of the di cartridge other than the filter is not working like it is suppose to, call the manufacturer and explain to them your findings, the horizontal filter might need to be top of with more resin or they may need to replace it.
on the other hand, I should also tell you that the RO membrane also appears to be faulty too, you should get a rejection rate of approx 95-98% TDS this means that for water like yours coming in at 125 tds you should get approx 6.25 TDS coming out of the RO membrane, you are getting 12 that is inadequate.
 
i didnt read the whole thread, but maybe your just getting ro water from the unit? my numbers will be around there if i get just ro water, and when i close/ open 2 ball valves on my unit, it lets me have ro/di and brings it down to 0. maybe thats the case?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11929095#post11929095 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Miamireefer
this is the unit..

PW-22-37-g.jpg

Click to expand...

Assuming you're taking water from the blue line on top, that carbon 'taste' filter is actually putting tds back into your RO/DI water.

For a reef application, I would remove that filter altogether, since it serves no purpose. Try taking it off, and see what your RO/DI tds is then.
 
I had the same exact problem, same unit (different branding). You have a bad membrane. I Called them and they sent me a new one, free of charge. 0ppm after I put the new membrane on.
 
Whether your membrane is good or bad, you still shouldn't get the same TDS going in and coming out of your DI chamber.

Have you unhooked the last carbon filter and tested what is coming out of the DI chamber?
 
I would mesure the water coming in, the water after membrane and water after di to figure out which one isn't working. I would try to return it and get the airwaterice.com unit.

I was getting 5 tds from my newer ro/di unit and I was about to spend $70 on new filters/di resign/membrane but airwaterice.com told me how to find and fix the problem. Very helpful and will order any water related items from them

hth

-Matthew
 
Good advice in the posts above.

If you are just using the system for your tank (and not supplying a pressure tank and faucet) remove the last inline GAC stage.

Even if you are supplying a pressure tank and faucet, why go to the trouble and expense of running drinkling water through your DI stage? To be kind, let's just say that the configuration of the plumbing on that system, and the filters in the stages are less than ideal.

Dismount the DI stage and place it vertically, with bottom up flow.

If you are up for it, contact us and we can walk you through replumbing the system to use one of your existing vertical housings for a DI stage.

Russ
 
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