Is this all I need?

[raeanana]

I am looking to start a new tank and will be buying the following things when I can over the next few months.
I will have live rock, fish, and anemones in a 20 gallon (24x12x16) for this set up. Unless I happen upon a bigger one for free which is doubtful.

There are a few things I am unsure of. There are too many options ~
Lighting: I would like to use LED, but there are so many various ranges of lighting, I am not sure what I need. The one on my list is one that a youtuber recommended...
Filters: Do I just go by manufacturer's instructions for replacing the filters and use their replacements? Or do I replace filters more/less often and use different materials?
Testing: I have two salinity testers on my list. Not sure which is better/more convenient? Also, should I/do I need to test hardness and phosphates?

Amazon List

 

[mcgyvr]

I would remove the Fluval C powerfilter, hydrometer, the jellas ph meter, phosphate and carbonate hardness test kits..
And I'm not an anemone person but I kind of doubt that LED light is sufficient even with a small tank.. Its really a "Fish only" light..

Then throw in 1.5/2lbs per gallon of nice live rock and rely solely on 5 gallon every 2 week water changes..


PH is something that is what it is and you cause more problems trying to mess with it..
Phosphate and alk are fine if you want but you really don't need them.. the refractometer is better than the hydrometer and a fluval type filter just isn't needed in this hobby and is really just more cost/maintenance

 

[raeanana]

I would remove the Fluval C powerfilter, hydrometer, the jellas ph meter, phosphate and carbonate hardness test kits..
And I'm not an anemone person but I kind of doubt that LED light is sufficient even with a small tank.. Its really a "Fish only" light..

Then throw in 1.5/2lbs per gallon of nice live rock and rely solely on 5 gallon every 2 week water changes..


PH is something that is what it is and you cause more problems trying to mess with it..
Phosphate and alk are fine if you want but you really don't need them.. the refractometer is better than the hydrometer and a fluval type filter just isn't needed in this hobby and is really just more cost/maintenance

Thank you so much for your input!

What type of filter system should I use then?
I had read that pH relies on alkalinity (which I figured is the same thing to begin with), is that why I don't need to test both?
So in the end I only need to test ammonia, pH, nitrate/nitrites, and salinity?

Hmm I have read that LED's are good for them. I will do more research on that.

 

[Jon0807]

I agree with everything mcgyvr said. The only thing I would add is getting a box of salt (http://a.co/1cCM3DZ) instead of that bag. You will go through a lot of salt, even with a 20 gallon and it's actually cheaper to buy the box over the bag or even a bucket. As long as you stay on top of your water changes, you can do without a HOB filter. Also becareful of circulation pumps. If you do plan on having anemones, they may get sucked into them.

 

[mcgyvr]

You don't need a filter system at all.. The rock in the tank does all the "filtering" you need.. Combine that with simple water changes and you are better off..
and yes PH is basically what it is due to the Co2 levels in your home,etc... most would recommend not chasing it and just letting it be what its going to be.. you keep everything else good and PH just handles itself..
and yes you can certainly have all the test kits you want but ammonia and nitrite are really only used during initial cycling of the tank and you then just never need to test for them again, ph isn't needed either because of what I said above.. nitrates is good and gives you a quick overview of the overall filtration in your tank IMO.. if its a problem others might be too..
Frankly for a vast majority of people I think we send them out for too many test kits as is.. you could easily just get by with a salinity tester IMO...
The API master is good for cycling but other than nitrate the rest are just not used after it..

 

[sde1500]

Thank you so much for your input!



What type of filter system should I use then?

I had read that pH relies on alkalinity (which I figured is the same thing to begin with), is that why I don't need to test both?

So in the end I only need to test ammonia, pH, nitrate/nitrites, and salinity?



Hmm I have read that LED's are good for them. I will do more research on that.

The right LED lights are fine. That light even says fish only. 60+ lights and only 11 watts is junk. Good lights use 3w cree or bridgelux or one other brand I can't think of. Look up mars Aqua if you want cheap but good enough. Anemones need good light.

Also nems aren't easy to care for. What type are you planning on getting?

Everything else is echo mcgyvr. Do you have powerheads on that list? Too lazy to go back and check while posting on my phone.

 

[raeanana]

Good suggestion, thank you!
Is there another good option for circulation besides the pumps?


Thank you!
I will need to get those kits anyways. So it wouldn't hurt to have them around in case nitrates go haywire...? *shrug*

"The API master is good for cycling but other than nitrate the rest are just not used after it.. "
When should nitrates be tested, just water changes? Or every few days?

 

[raeanana]

The right LED lights are fine. That light even says fish only. 60+ lights and only 11 watts is junk. Good lights use 3w cree or bridgelux or one other brand I can't think of. Look up mars Aqua if you want cheap but good enough. Anemones need good light.

Also nems aren't easy to care for. What type are you planning on getting?

Everything else is echo mcgyvr. Do you have powerheads on that list? Too lazy to go back and check while posting on my phone.

I will do that, thanks!

Ones that clownfish need... lol. I was going to start off with a clownfish as that is what the internet says is good for a beginner?

Yes I do.

 

[NS Mike D]

True, you don't need a filter. I do however suggest you google "berlin system" lot's of good articles how live rock will host the bacteria that will break down ammonia into nitrites then nitrates and then how the low oxygen nooks and crannies in the rock will host the bacteria that will break down the nitrate into nitrogen gas which will then escape.

Tbe Berlin system uses a protein skimmer housed in a sump. This will remove stuff before it can break down into N&P.

Granulated Activated Carbon (GAC) removes stuff that the skimmer doesn't. This can be placed in a mesh bag in the sump, but better in a reactor (a low flow pump connected to a cylinder so the water can slowly pass through the GAC). For now you can use that fluval C. You will need to rinse clean the foam filter of detritus every few days ( so nitrates don't build up) but you can use the second slot to keep (and change) your carbon with their accessory refillable media cartridge. It will also add flow to the tank.

Speaking up sumps, in addition to housing a protein skimmer, many will set aside a section to serve as a refugio to grown macro algae as an N&P export and safe area to micro fauna to grow.

Whether or not you go this route, I think it's helpful to understand the berlin system, particularly the dynamics of nutrient recycling and export in a reef system.


PS LEDS have come a long way, but are very expensive up front. If $$$ are limited, T5s are more affordable, proven to be very good for reef tanks and easier to manage.

 

[raeanana]

True, you don't need a filter. I do however suggest you google "berlin system" lot's of good articles how live rock will host the bacteria that will break down ammonia into nitrites then nitrates and then how the low oxygen nooks and crannies in the rock will host the bacteria that will break down the nitrate into nitrogen gas which will then escape.

Tbe Berlin system uses a protein skimmer housed in a sump. This will remove stuff before it can break down into N&P.

Granulated Activated Carbon (GAC) removes stuff that the skimmer doesn't. This can be placed in a mesh bag in the sump, but better in a reactor (a low flow pump connected to a cylinder so the water can slowly pass through the GAC). For now you can use that fluval C. You will need to rinse clean the foam filter of detritus every few days ( so nitrates don't build up) but you can use the second slot to keep (and change) your carbon with their accessory refillable media cartridge. It will also add flow to the tank.

Speaking up sumps, in addition to housing a protein skimmer, many will set aside a section to serve as a refugio to grown macro algae as an N&P export and safe area to micro fauna to grow.

Whether or not you go this route, I think it's helpful to understand the berlin system, particularly the dynamics of nutrient recycling and export in a reef system.


PS LEDS have come a long way, but are very expensive up front. If $$$ are limited, T5s are more affordable, proven to be very good for reef tanks and easier to manage.

Wowzers thank you for all the info. I will look into that.

 

[NS Mike D]

Wowzers thank you for all the info. I will look into that.

I forgot to mention, the Berlin is not the end all be all and there a many variations of the original design. But, IMO is a good start to understand things and I find I keep returning to refreshing my memory of the basics to better understand more complex issues.



also, I confused the fluval C with marineland penguin c. skip the filter and go with a media reactor if you choose to use GAC


I have a 29 gal tank and added a Hang on Back (HOB) sump/fuge from CPR. Inside that I keep my heater, nano protein skimmer some extra pieces of rubble live rock and grow cheato (macro algae) with a 24" cheap LED fixture.

Visit the nano forum for lots of good information. There are folks who have awesome nano tanks with nothing more than weekly water changes.

One last thing. Many nemones can quickly outgrow a nano tank.

 

[raeanana]

I forgot to mention, the Berlin is not the end all be all and there a many variations of the original design. But, IMO is a good start to understand things and I find I keep returning to refreshing my memory of the basics to better understand more complex issues.



also, I confused the fluval C with marineland penguin c. skip the filter and go with a media reactor if you choose to use GAC

So the Penguin C would be a better choice?

Hm, okay... I will research that too.

 

[mcgyvr]

So the Penguin C would be a better choice?

No

 

[NS Mike D]

No

agree

 

[sde1500]

No clown "needs" a nem. And no nem that naturally hosts the typical clown people get, mostly A. Ocellaris, will fit in a 20 gallon tank. There are others that they'd possibly take to but not many suited really still. Maybe a bubble tip.

 

[raeanana]

I have a 29 gal tank and added a Hang on Back (HOB) sump/fuge from CPR. Inside that I keep my heater, nano protein skimmer some extra pieces of rubble live rock and grow cheato (macro algae) with a 24" cheap LED fixture.

Can you link that sump? There so many names I'm not sure which it is

 

[raeanana]

No clown "needs" a nem. And no nem that naturally hosts the typical clown people get, mostly A. Ocellaris, will fit in a 20 gallon tank. There are others that they'd possibly take to but not many suited really still. Maybe a bubble tip.

What if I upgrade to a 30 gallon, would that be better?

 

[sde1500]

As you are still in the planning phase, what clown/nem combo were you interested in?

 

[raeanana]

As you are still in the planning phase, what clown/nem combo were you interested in?

I am still planning. I just know I want clownfish. Not sure of the anemone I want/could get. If their ideal anemone requires more space I would much rather get a larger tank than settle for something less. I think I will have to decide that when I take a look at different clownfish the suppliers have. I saw a few I liked when I went a few days ago that were more white or more black than a normal clownfish. I didn't get the names though.