Is your tank a constant temperature system?

aquadavid

New member
Temperature is one of the important parameters to all living things on earth, especially for those non-constant animals, like fish and reef. Most aquarium enthusiasts have both heater and cooler installed on their tank; however, are you sure they work together and can keep your fish tank within a range of temperature as a constant temperature system?

dCExLkH


Reality
Believe it or not , it's impossible to have the same readings from different temperature sensors, even from the same device, the same tank, the same location. Why? It is because thermal conductivity of sensors cannot be the same, just like identical twins who may look almost alike, but there is still miniscule difference in height, weight or personalities.

The point I am trying to make is that when you have temperature sensor of heater and cooler from different devices, different readings might be a big problem for your tank. For example, most of reef keepers who expect to maintain a constant temperature of 25 °C, will setup 24°C as the starting point to initiate heater and 26°C to start the cooler.

Normally, the tolerance of sensor probe is at least 0.5°C in comparison with real temperature and if you include the cable into consideration, the total tolerance of sensor might be more than 1°C. With two sensors in action would mean you will have the exponential tolerance risk of 2°C in your tank, and with this setup , how can you be confident that your tank temperature can be precisely kept between 24°C ~ 26°C?

3 ways to eliminate the reading issue
Of course, there are ways to eliminate the reading issue. One is to calibrate both sensors. Two is to have one sensor for both heater and cooler. The third and best way is to calibrate a sensor and use it for both heater and cooler controllers which can give the most reliable reading to have the heater or cooler to be activated correctly at all times and solve the uncertainty once and for all. Unfortunately an extremely accurate sensor will be pricey and hard to get right off the shelf.

Conclusion
Therefore the alternative and economic solution would be to get a 2 stage temperature controller so your tank always be in a constant temperature setting.
 
Conclusion #2, why worry about it? Reefs see big swings in temperature sometimes several degrees within minutes with thermal upwellings and current shifts.
 
I've never had the chiller and the heater come on in the same week. chiller in the summer heater in the winter...….maybe a couple times I've had them both come on within the same month....but that would be extremely rare....
 
I do twin heaters in the winter, and fans + home AC in the summer, controlled by an Apex.
The heaters are on a load-sharing program. Tank temp stays within 0.5 degrees F at all times.
Also have a chiller still in the box for emergency use in case our AC were to fail during a hot day.
 
Conclusion #2, why worry about it? Reefs see big swings in temperature sometimes several degrees within minutes with thermal upwellings and current shifts.

^^ Agree; even acros don't seem to mind a 2-4F daily temp fluctuation.
 
Temperature is one of the important parameters to all living things on earth, especially for those non-constant animals, like fish and reef. Most aquarium enthusiasts have both heater and cooler installed on their tank; however, are you sure they work together and can keep your fish tank within a range of temperature as a constant temperature system?

dCExLkH


Reality
Believe it or not , it's impossible to have the same readings from different temperature sensors, even from the same device, the same tank, the same location. Why? It is because thermal conductivity of sensors cannot be the same, just like identical twins who may look almost alike, but there is still miniscule difference in height, weight or personalities.

The point I am trying to make is that when you have temperature sensor of heater and cooler from different devices, different readings might be a big problem for your tank. For example, most of reef keepers who expect to maintain a constant temperature of 25 °C, will setup 24°C as the starting point to initiate heater and 26°C to start the cooler.

Normally, the tolerance of sensor probe is at least 0.5°C in comparison with real temperature and if you include the cable into consideration, the total tolerance of sensor might be more than 1°C. With two sensors in action would mean you will have the exponential tolerance risk of 2°C in your tank, and with this setup , how can you be confident that your tank temperature can be precisely kept between 24°C ~ 26°C?

3 ways to eliminate the reading issue
Of course, there are ways to eliminate the reading issue. One is to calibrate both sensors. Two is to have one sensor for both heater and cooler. The third and best way is to calibrate a sensor and use it for both heater and cooler controllers which can give the most reliable reading to have the heater or cooler to be activated correctly at all times and solve the uncertainty once and for all. Unfortunately an extremely accurate sensor will be pricey and hard to get right off the shelf.

Conclusion
Therefore the alternative and economic solution would be to get a 2 stage temperature controller so your tank always be in a constant temperature setting.

I think it's weird that you've been a member for a year and this is your second post...it's even weirder that your post reads like someone who is giving a lecture.
 
For any parameter, less flux is best always, especially the good heaters like the Fluval E-Series or Cobalts which can keep the flux within .5 degrees, why not, very easy
 
I have my Apex controlling my Chiller and Heater from a single probe, and I have a second probe in my sump as a failsafe to make sure the one in the main tank has not failed.

My chiller kicks on at 78 degrees and kicks off at 77.6, it takes the chiller about an hour to make that temperature change. My heater kicks on at 76.6 and kicks off at 77. It also takes about an hour to make this temperature change.

If either sensor goes out of range because something stuck on I get an email, and a text.

My tank is totally spoiled.

But to your point, this is exactly why I only use my Chiller's temp controller, and my heaters temp controller as a backup. If something goes wrong my heater will only heat my tank to 80, and my chiller will only chill to 73.

Whiskey
 
My turn on at 78.5 and off at 79.
Because of my lights (3 250 Watt Metal Halide), the tank gets to 82 turning the light period. Not a problem
 
Over the years I have had to run chillers, but for the most part don't run heaters. I'm not worried about 3-4 degree temp swing.
 
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