JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

I use the blue and white InTank filter pad where the outlet is. I don't change quite as often as the regular filter pad in the media box though. I probably change it about once every 5 or 6 days or so.

That seems to do a great job of eliminating micro bubbles for me and it's worth the cost of using up some
Filter pads
 
I've been looking at the jbj 28g that has the led pro, are those lights good? I'm leaning on doing mostly lps dominated but don't want to be held back from Sps either. I just want really good color and decent growth will work for me.
 
Ange062 writes "Those are the stock Accela pumps reside in the outside back chambers of the tank. They are connected to the "returns" in the display. I suggest running BOTH of the stock pumps full time as that's what will push water through your filtration back compartment. The MP10 is just used for additional circulation in the display tank"

If you run BOTH full time at same time you will overflow the main tank. The 28 cannot handle 492 Gals per hour. They are made to run on the wave maker supplied w/ the tank.

The MP 10 is for additional tank circulation and does not affect your filtration supply. The black peices of foam are your secondary sponges and are best used on the side of your pump compartment elevated sklightly above the box line to catch anything from the overflow ahead of the pumps on either side.

Happy Reefing
 
micahdeane said:
I've been looking at the jbj 28g that has the led pro, are those lights good? I'm leaning on doing mostly lps dominated but don't want to be held back from Sps either. I just want really good color and decent growth will work for me.
Click to expand...

I have the pro and it's 89w of WHITE. Too much. I think you might be happier with a less expensive hood and a retro light. Or the intermediate with a stunner or something.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
coralsnaked said:
Ange062 writes "Those are the stock Accela pumps reside in the outside back chambers of the tank. They are connected to the "returns" in the display. I suggest running BOTH of the stock pumps full time as that's what will push water through your filtration back compartment. The MP10 is just used for additional circulation in the display tank"

If you run BOTH full time at same time you will overflow the main tank. The 28 cannot handle 492 Gals per hour. They are made to run on the wave maker supplied w/ the tank.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth I ran both pumps for months and there was never a risk of overflowing. Now I run one stock Accela and an Eheim 1000 which pushes more than the stock Accela. Main tank and the InTank media basket handle it fine. I did turn down the Eheim a bit just so I don't have to change my filter pad quite as often.

I agree that it's a lot of flow but if you're housing SPS it sure doesn't hurt and with an MP10 blasting its nice to keep particles moving into the overflow. I'm certainly not telling everyone that there's not an argument for alternating them but I am saying that running them both doesn't overflow the display.
 
thanks ange062 i went with the 150 light. Every thing looks great.

now is there a light between the coralife 10K and Phoenix 14K. coralife was to white and yellow and the Phoenix is to blue.

I dont have a top so evaporation is crazy, can any one comment about their ATO's and how they have held up. Looking back through this thread a lot of people got the JBJ or the tunz.
 
chrisryherd said:
thanks ange062 i went with the 150 light. Every thing looks great.

now is there a light between the coralife 10K and Phoenix 14K. coralife was to white and yellow and the Phoenix is to blue.

I dont have a top so evaporation is crazy, can any one comment about their ATO's and how they have held up. Looking back through this thread a lot of people got the JBJ or the tunz.
Click to expand...

During the heat of the summer, my chiller went out, so I left the canopy open and ran two computer fans 24/7 on the water surface for evaporative cooling. As you can imagine, I went through a huge amount of RO water- about 2g per day (a lot for a 28g tank). I have the JBJ ATO and it held up really well, even during all that massive evaporation.
 
coralsnaked said:
If you run BOTH full time at same time you will overflow the main tank. The 28 cannot handle 492 Gals per hour. They are made to run on the wave maker supplied w/ the tank.
Click to expand...

Now that's just plain old misinformation... I ran both stock Accela's at the same time for nearly 2-yrs with never anything close to an overflow. The stock media basket surely can't keep up, so running both will require an InTank or custom basket. I now run 2 Eheim Compact 1000's (higher flow) and even with both at full blast the main tank doesn't overflow. But, with this setup even the InTank basket can't keep up so I had to throttle one down (they are adjustable flow).

chad p said:
For what it's worth I ran both pumps for months and there was never a risk of overflowing. Now I run one stock Accela and an Eheim 1000 which pushes more than the stock Accela. Main tank and the InTank media basket handle it fine. I did turn down the Eheim a bit just so I don't have to change my filter pad quite as often.

I agree that it's a lot of flow but if you're housing SPS it sure doesn't hurt and with an MP10 blasting its nice to keep particles moving into the overflow. I'm certainly not telling everyone that there's not an argument for alternating them but I am saying that running them both doesn't overflow the display.
Click to expand...

+1 to everything

chrisryherd said:
thanks ange062 i went with the 150 light. Every thing looks great.

now is there a light between the coralife 10K and Phoenix 14K. coralife was to white and yellow and the Phoenix is to blue.

I dont have a top so evaporation is crazy, can any one comment about their ATO's and how they have held up. Looking back through this thread a lot of people got the JBJ or the tunz.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it worked out. Keep in mind that different manufacturers kelvin ratings look different, i.e. an Ushio 20k may not look anywhere close to a Radium 20k.

I've had the Tunze for about a year now. Works great, never a hiccup, and it's SO much easier to maintain the tank when you only have to top off your reservoir every few days instead of multiple times a day. My open top tank loses about 0.5gal per day with no evaporative cooling. My res is 2.5gal, so I topoff about every 4-days.
 
Last edited:
i just added 40lbs of instant ocean live sand and there are a ton of foam floating on top. is this normal? how long will it take for the foam to go away and the water to clear up?

IMG_20121004_002150.jpg


i turned on the 2 accela pumps and set it to 10 seconds... cause i dont know what to put it to. i tried setting it to 0, which is constant power and it makes a loud noise, i think it sucks up all the water from the back champers to puts it all in the display tank, so i set it back to 10.

there is less foam now but theres still some along the sides of the tank.

also am i supposed to run the lights when cycling the tank?

am i supposed to fill the water in the display tank until the back chamber is filled to the top?

i dont have my protein skimmer yet but should i be running it while the tank is cycling?

when do i change water? and when do i change the stuff in my media basket? right now i'm just using whatever media that came with the jbj. i moved all the media that came with the jbj media basket into the intank one. i ordered the filterfloss from intank, purigen and chemipure elite. they are just sitting right now
 
If it sucks up all the water when both pumps are on simply add more salt water until the level in the back corners isn't so low. Preferably the water level will be even with the next chamber over or have only a slight waterfall into the corners. Maybe 1 to 2 inches.

If you added a lot of sand expect it to take up to a couple of days to become completely clear.

I'd hold off on adding chemi pure and purigen until you're done cycling.

At the risk of sounding like the message board police...I'd highly recommend that you do some research here. This board has all the answers to any question you could possibly think of. Do some searches and you'll find great info about filter media, cycling your tank, water changes etc etc. You'll definitely want to do a bunch of research before adding any livestock. Plus you'll have a blast reading through everything.

Trust me, doing research now will save TONS of headaches, heartbreak, frustration and money in the long run. Some of your questions should have been addressed before your tank ever saw water. Not trying to be a jerk or discourage you, just being honest and trying to help. Good luck and I'm sure if you research and do things right you'll enjoy it for a long time and have success.
 
hey chad, thanks for the response. i have done alot of research a month prior to buying my tank and i still read up on threads now but its a little different once you start setting up and a question pops into your head. or maybe i just wanna be reassured that im doing things correctly.
 
By making a small mod to one of the TLF phosban reactors, I was able to fit a TLF Kalk reactor on the back of the tank. The reactor just needed a little notch cut out of it and a dremel tool made the cut very easy. This modification allows me to fit a skimmer, gfo reactor, carbon reactor, and kalk reactor on the back of this tank. I am a little nervous running this reactor on this type of system since the margin for error is very small. However, having the kalk reactor connected to a JBJ ATO (using both float valves in the nano) and a pH monitor (apex) helps my confidence about preventing an overdose. Here are a few pictures.

Reactors and Skimmer
016.jpg


Mod to the TLF Phosban Reactor
019.jpg
 
Lookin sweet acro! It should work out well for you. I went with a dosing pump to control Ca/Alk independently because with manual dosing I always had an imbalance. Since switching to the doser a year ago my levels have almost always been 1-to-1. You still need to figure out how to add Mg though.
 
ange062 said:
Lookin sweet acro! It should work out well for you. I went with a dosing pump to control Ca/Alk independently because with manual dosing I always had an imbalance. Since switching to the doser a year ago my levels have almost always been 1-to-1. You still need to figure out how to add Mg though.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Are you using BRS dosing pumps? I have two of them left over from my other system and I am might need them down the road. There are some mechanical things that I am not crazy about with the TLF Kalk reactor. My other worry is that the kalk reactor isn't going to be able to keep up the Ca/Alk since the evaporation rate is low on the nano cube and the reactor is hooked up to the ATO. Only time will tell though.
 
I have an idea but can someone explain what dosing pumps are and what they do? How do you use them? etc....
I understand kalk, supplement additions, etc...but are dosing pumps a way to add supplementals with your top off? I guess I just don't understand. I thought everything just came from a bottle when you need something. Please help.

Thanks
 
For those who have a TLF 150 Reactor, I currently just got one setup and am running 4 tablespoons of rox .8 carbon (2x what BRS recommends) and 4 tablespoons of Phosban. Now some may think that the Phosban is too little but keep in mind I have chaeto in the back basket and from what I understand, I can use both simultaneously. Anyways, I am currently running it at approx 20gph.(recommended on TLF Manual) Is this sufficent or should I increase the flow?

Thanks again
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

AZBigJohn
New Build... I'm back
2
Replies
25
Views
1K
Dustin07
D
C
RSM Max Nano XL Plan / Build
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
griss
griss
D
Structural support for 125 gallon aquarium
Replies
7
Views
418
ddang
D
Brian60077
Big project starting today......
Replies
7
Views
508
Dustin07
D
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
686
S|\/|S
S
Back
Top