JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

And any sugestions on a few corals to start with after tank is cycled and ready for stocking . I would love a few sps , will JBJ 28led intermediate support any lps corals .
Any common amount/weight of live rock in the 28.
 
The jbj nanos can be fantastic all-in-one tanks. There's a ton of little DIY things you could do to make the tank even better (media basket/upgraded return pump/ect).

As far as quality - all tanks have the chance of leaking. From poor seals to improper elevation, there will always be those who don't have any good experience.

Personally, I love my jbj. It's quiet, small, and low maintenance. I don't run a protein skimmer, just water changes once a week and everything is flourishing.

As far as corals go, you can start will easy stuff such as zoas and LPS but id let the tank mature before putting in sps. Just my 2 cents.

Hope this helps!
 
Thank you ! Im munching my finger nails , thinking "maybe i should call and cancel my order" .
I sat in vront of my vintage stereo after thae family left , listenimg to some steely dan on my turntable (my other hobby)
And thought to myself almost word for word what you posted above... some bad experiences are true with even the very best of just about anything , including reef tanks .
I am also happy to hear your skimmer free with water changes .
What percentage of water do you change ? Led?
Thanks again!
 
Thank you ! Im munching my finger nails , thinking "maybe i should call and cancel my order" .
I sat in vront of my vintage stereo after thae family left , listenimg to some steely dan on my turntable (my other hobby)
And thought to myself almost word for word what you posted above... some bad experiences are true with even the very best of just about anything , including reef tanks .
I am also happy to hear your skimmer free with water changes .
What percentage of water do you change ? Led?
Thanks again!

Great way to relax and think! Any Pink Floyd? REO Speedwagon?

There will always be someone who doesn't have a good experience or has a personal error that causes something to go wrong with the tank - no way around that one.

I change about 50% to 75% of the tank volume (rough guess since I do it by eye). Everything has done great and all my SPS are growing considerably.

I did upgrade my lighting with a LED retrofit kit from Steve's LED's and I couldn't be happier - I can keep anything under the sun and can achieve sunrise and sunsets with their controller.
 
I saw that led upgrade when I was looking around at other cubes .... def on the jbj28's bucket list .
Wow 50% - 75% is how much you change ?
I was thinking 20%. Hmmm...
Pink floyd and REO speedwagon... absolutely!
 
I saw that led upgrade when I was looking around at other cubes .... def on the jbj28's bucket list .
Wow 50% - 75% is how much you change ?
I was thinking 20%. Hmmm...
Pink floyd and REO speedwagon... absolutely!

Probably one of the best mods was the LEDs hands down. As far as the water change goes, all the bacteria is in the sand and on the rocks. Essentially, by doing a big water change you are replenishing all essential elements and not throwing out beneficial bacteria (other than the organic matter that fuels phosphates and nitrates). I haven't seen any downside in doing bigger water changes. The tank's water actually ends up being more clear and coral growth is very noticeable.

If you want to do 20% instead, that's perfectly fine. I do that on my 120 but it has an oversized skimmer

I saw REO in concert a few years back.. had to be one of the best I've ever been to :beer:
 
I've had my tank up and running for a little over 3 weeks now - I used live sand and 25# of live rock from an LFS that has had the rock in tanks for months. I let it cycle for 2 weeks, and checked water parameters every other day during that time. I did get minor ammonia and nitrate spikes. But never really saw an increase in nitrate readings. About a week ago, I added a CUC (4 red tip hermits, 1 emerald crab, 2 pep shrimp, 1 skunk cleaner shrimp, 3 cerith snails, 3 marg snails, and 6 nassarius snails) and 2 small ocellaris clownfish. Once I added livestock, I put Purigen in chamber 2 and ChemiPur in chamber 3 of the stock media basket. The stock sponge is in chamber 1.

Last night I started to notice some greening of the live rock, and small blotches of green on the sand. I never saw an outbreak of brown or red algae over the two weeks - could this be the third round of cycling algae? Or might it be from excess feeding of the clownfish ... they didn't really eat hardily for a couple of days. I've been feeding the clowns mysis or brine from a syringe - I spot feed them, only squirting a little bit in at a time. They tend to get most of it, but some does end up on the bottom, where the CUC seems to take care of it. I don't feel like I'm overfeeding, but I was feeding daily, and a couple of times I've fed twice per day.

I've dropped daylights from 11 hours/day to 9 hours/day, and I'm only going to feed the clowns every other day. Water parameter tests for this morning showed 0 nitrate, 0 nitrite, 0 ammonia, the water is crystal clear.

Does this sound like the right course of action to control the green?

I'm looking for opinions -
Do you think this green is the final stage of cycling, even though I didn't get brown or red stages?
Or from introducing livestock, and thus beginning feeding cycles?
Is there anything I could add to the CUC to combat the green?
 
I've had my tank up and running for a little over 3 weeks now - I used live sand and 25# of live rock from an LFS that has had the rock in tanks for months. I let it cycle for 2 weeks, and checked water parameters every other day during that time. I did get minor ammonia and nitrate spikes. But never really saw an increase in nitrate readings. About a week ago, I added a CUC (4 red tip hermits, 1 emerald crab, 2 pep shrimp, 1 skunk cleaner shrimp, 3 cerith snails, 3 marg snails, and 6 nassarius snails) and 2 small ocellaris clownfish. Once I added livestock, I put Purigen in chamber 2 and ChemiPur in chamber 3 of the stock media basket. The stock sponge is in chamber 1.

Last night I started to notice some greening of the live rock, and small blotches of green on the sand. I never saw an outbreak of brown or red algae over the two weeks - could this be the third round of cycling algae? Or might it be from excess feeding of the clownfish ... they didn't really eat hardily for a couple of days. I've been feeding the clowns mysis or brine from a syringe - I spot feed them, only squirting a little bit in at a time. They tend to get most of it, but some does end up on the bottom, where the CUC seems to take care of it. I don't feel like I'm overfeeding, but I was feeding daily, and a couple of times I've fed twice per day.

I've dropped daylights from 11 hours/day to 9 hours/day, and I'm only going to feed the clowns every other day. Water parameter tests for this morning showed 0 nitrate, 0 nitrite, 0 ammonia, the water is crystal clear.

Does this sound like the right course of action to control the green?

I'm looking for opinions -
Do you think this green is the final stage of cycling, even though I didn't get brown or red stages?
Or from introducing livestock, and thus beginning feeding cycles?
Is there anything I could add to the CUC to combat the green?


It sounds like you are on the right track. What kind of algae is it? Filamentous? Generally all tanks are capable of growing any type of algae. Have you tested for phosphates? While the parameters of nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia may read zero algae thrives on phosphates.

I wouldn't be overly concerned with the algae - it could be a delayed diatom bloom as well. If anything you can do a small water change. Otherwise, it should run its course.

Invest in a phosphate test kit. If there are traces of phosphates, algae tends to grow considerably.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I stopped at my LFS this afternoon - they were thinking phos as well. They told me to bring in a water sample next time and they would test for phos for me. They also told me to bring in a sample of my RO - they were thinking that might be the source of the phos ...

My LFS actually isn't so local - they're about 45 minutes from my house, but they're the closest (and cleanest) to me, and very near to a couple of my customers so I'm in their neighborhood frequently. In the meantime, they recommend some phos-floss to run in the 1st chamber of the media basket. I'll give that a shot with the limited time on the daylights, and every other day feeding schedule.

THANKS AGAIN!
 
get some Phosban. The containers come with a nylon bag that you can fill and put in one of your chambers. Best investment you can make in ridding yourself of cyanobacteria and algae in my opinion.
 
I've got ChemiPur Elite in the 3rd chamber. Unfortunately completely snowed in right now, no idea when I'm going to be able to get out of the house, or when UPS can get to me to deliver anything from Amazon ... so I can't run up to the local PetsMart or Pet Supplies Plus to grab some Phosban.

LFS did mention measuring total dissolved solids (TDS) of the RO water. I have a TDS meter that was included in a ZeroWater pitcher. I tested the RO and got a reading of 3ppm. LFS said anything under 20ppm should be fine, and to replace RO filters when it goes over 40ppm. Now going to check RO TDS with every water parameter check.
 
I've got ChemiPur Elite in the 3rd chamber. Unfortunately completely snowed in right now, no idea when I'm going to be able to get out of the house, or when UPS can get to me to deliver anything from Amazon ... so I can't run up to the local PetsMart or Pet Supplies Plus to grab some Phosban.

LFS did mention measuring total dissolved solids (TDS) of the RO water. I have a TDS meter that was included in a ZeroWater pitcher. I tested the RO and got a reading of 3ppm. LFS said anything under 20ppm should be fine, and to replace RO filters when it goes over 40ppm. Now going to check RO TDS with every water parameter check.

Definitely want your TDS to measure zero - at least for a reef aquarium. If you recently changed the filters, look into maybe changing the membrane. Did you buy the unit used?

If anything, do a simple water change. That should help with the phosphates until you get your RO/DI water in check and some phosban or phosguard.
 
ledzepfan great advice.. how long ago did you get your steves leds.. I just bought steve's led new retrofit with the typhoon controller that fits right into the hood I paid xtra to have it put together for me but seems worth it so far...gonna install it sometime this week..might need to ask a few questions on how to program the typhoon controller if you don't mind
 
ledzepfan great advice.. how long ago did you get your steves leds.. I just bought steve's led new retrofit with the typhoon controller that fits right into the hood I paid xtra to have it put together for me but seems worth it so far...gonna install it sometime this week..might need to ask a few questions on how to program the typhoon controller if you don't mind


Glad I am able to help! I got them last summer (so give or take 7 months). I did the same as you and had the kit 95% completed - I did not want to risk screwing something up on my own so paying more for it wasn't a big deal.

Let me know if you have any questions and I'd be more than happy to answer them. The retrofit kit is great and I'd recommend it to anyone with an AIO system.

What kind of system do you have? The 12 or 28 gallon?
 
I have the 28g.. pretty much changed everything so far on the tank.. but to me that's what makes the tank fun for me. I put in a intank media basket , changed the return pumps Marineland Maxi-Jet PRO 1200. added 2 Hydor Koralia Nano 425 for more flow. I even changed the nozzles inside to tank to Hydor FLO Rotating Deflector they spin in circles to change the flow pretty cool..now Im gonna install the led kit.. am I missing anything to upgrade?? lol ledzep fan did you buy the led moonlight strips from steves led? trying to figure out where to put them?????
 
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