JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

solastsummer said:
im worried because i have lots of zoa's in my sandbed, i dont want them to get covered up while they are making their home.
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I hear you on that one. I have a Bluespot Jawfish who does a lot of digging and I can't leave anything on the sandbed near him or it's toast. He's worth it though so I just keep corals a little higher up. Shrimp/goby combos are super cool and a good choice for a nano but if you've already got corals that can't be easily moved then there are several other fish that would make good additions. I have a yellow assessor that's a beautiful fish, always out and about, not aggressive, and brightly colored. You could also consider other small fish like clown gobies, green banded gobies, neon gobies, flame angel/pigmy angle (reef safe with caution), royal grama, or a 6 line wrasse.
Good luck & let us know what you decide on.
 
corrado007 said:
I hear you on that one. I have a Bluespot Jawfish who does a lot of digging and I can't leave anything on the sandbed near him or it's toast. He's worth it though so I just keep corals a little higher up. Shrimp/goby combos are super cool and a good choice for a nano but if you've already got corals that can't be easily moved then there are several other fish that would make good additions. I have a yellow assessor that's a beautiful fish, always out and about, not aggressive, and brightly colored. You could also consider other small fish like clown gobies, green banded gobies, neon gobies, flame angel/pigmy angle (reef safe with caution), royal grama, or a 6 line wrasse.
Good luck & let us know what you decide on.
Click to expand...

I was thinking maybe a flame angel and a royal grama, but i think that would be too much red for my fishes, the clown (orange, close though) flame hawkfish, flame angel, and royal grama, sounds too red.
 
If you have a dremel tool, use the metal disk to remove the magnet. When you cut into the magnet it will heat up, softening the glue. Then just pull the magnet off.

Quickcord
 
Hey guys, it should be pretty easy to cut off the 9002 magnet if you're cutting it in the right place and then you just pry it off. It comes right off. I'm not at all trying to show off or whatever, just want to make sure you're cutting in the right place to make it easy on yourself. I posted some pics a page or two back that should help out.
Here's a link directly to them:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18223514&postcount=1264

Good luck!
 
ATO float switches

ATO float switches

markgsa said:
What chamber are you guys putting an ATO in?
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I actually just finished my DIY ATO. I put the float switches in the right most chamber as you look at it from the front. Here are a few shots of my ATO:

First the float switches you asked about.

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And here's the control module I made. The blue illuminated switch is for power to the unit and the green indicator LED comes on when the pump is operating (topping off).

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And here's the control module installed in the stand with the aqualifter pump installed on an acrylic shelf behind it.

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And the hose output hose from the pump is shown here and goes in the left most chamber as you look at it from the front.

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I used a heat gun and some mechanics gloves to form the bends for the aqualifter pump and the bracket for the float valves.

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And here's a shot of the entire set-up. I'm going to be putting a 6L (1.58 gal) Jerry Can in place of the 2 gallon bucket. Nangene makes one that's recycle symbol #2 HDPE so it should be safe for holding RO/DI without leaching junk from the plastic. I'm also going to be moving my aquacontroller jr over from my 90 to the Cube this week so hopefully the wiring will look a little bit neater soon.

b2618497.jpg
 
markgsa said:
corrado007 where did you get your float valves? And you got schematics on your module? It looks cool. Thanks
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment man, much appreciated!

I got the float switches from Chicago Sensors.

I used a set of the FLT015 switches, the smallest ones on the left.

As for a schematic, I didn't draw one up, I just kind of thought it up in my head and wire it as I went.

Basically it's a 115VAC transformer down to 12VAC hooked up to a bridge rectifier to switch it from AC to pulsating DC. The 12VDC powers the relay coil, the pump indicator LED, the power switch indicator LED, and runs through the float switches (did't want high voltage running through the float switch in the salt water). The DPST relay switches the pump and pump indicator LED on and off.

Not sure if that's enough info or if you'd like a bit more. Let me know.
 
Do I need a chiller with my Nano Reef 28 gal LED? Just set it up only live rock and dry rock now with some live sand and some very fine white sand (which has now turned brown). I feel like I'm just watching my aquarium rot. I am eager to put in fish. No amonia now, Ph is perfect and high nitrites...
 
I wouldn't think you would need a chiller for LED but I can be mistaken. I'm running the stock 28g hqi with the 1/15 hp chiller and the chiller keeps the temp in check. Do you have a thermometer on there? If so what is the temp wiht lights on?
 
Maybe just add a small fan pointing at the back chambers and it should cool it down, But it will increase evaporation. That's what I would do, then go from there.
 
Michelle S said:
the temp is about 79.4 with the day lights on and 78 without. I keep the flap open all the time.
Click to expand...

Hello Michelle, welcome to the club, I'm not sure I've seen you on here in the past.

I also have the LED version and you will not need a chiller. You really shouldn't even need to keep the feeding door opened. I keep my feeding door closed and my temperature ranges from about 78.0 to 78.5, just a half degree fluctuation throughout a 24 hour period. My house is kept between 65-68 degrees in the winter and my heaters are easily able to keep it up to the preset 78 degree setting. The LEDs give off pretty much no heat at all so there's nothing to raise the temp so you'll be fine. The LEDs stay cool to the touch (just a slight warmth) after hours of use. I doubt that a fan should be necessary so if your temp is going too high you may want to check thermostat on your heater to make sure it's not set too high.

As for the tank not looking very lively right now, that's perfectly normal and we all go through that stage. Just keep being patient and testing your water like you are and you'll be fine. The brown algae on the sand is pretty normal as well at this point. It'll all be worth the wait and you'll soon be looking at a tank full of life.

Best of luck with your tank!

Justin
 
I just did turn my heater down. Thanks for the encouragement. I still sit and watch the rock and sand bubble; I'll be incurable once I get some reef material and a fish or two!!
 
markgsa said:
Maybe just add a small fan pointing at the back chambers and it should cool it down, But it will increase evaporation. That's what I would do, then go from there.
Click to expand...
Thanks markgsa... I turned down the heater and will wait until morning to check temp then. I'll a fan if that doesn't work.
 
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